Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
06-04-2012, 06:24 PM
#761
Thats holley intake has the taper top so if...(they ever make the cathy port) And I was to fit one, you can easly weld up the inside, and grind out a little step across it to tuck under the glass edge without lowering the K members.
If anything on the RT I would build up epoxy on the inside and notch the lid. The runners are no were near the middle inside.
If anything on the RT I would build up epoxy on the inside and notch the lid. The runners are no were near the middle inside.
06-04-2012, 06:35 PM
#762
What ports did you guys use? I htink Im gona block all the rear ones to make it easier to work on. The rear map isn;t drilled but the 3/8 brake boosted is. Im thinking about cutting the nipple flush and flush thread plug it. And use the side 3/8 fitting for the power booster. And remount the map off some vac line.
Looks like my edelbrock rails will work, and there U brackets, just have to drill one new hole in them, (like the fast rails have the 2 holes for one side of the rails) I guess I'll be using my 92mm TB for now too.
06-04-2012, 09:32 PM
#764
That intake, is the "big and ugly" for the ls world 
The thing is so big it looks like it's out of a comic book.
Curious how it does though compared to a good single plane. Nice work on getting it in there for those of you that did, and I like to see that people are finally getting warmed up to the idea of cutting to make stuff like this fit
The thing is so big it looks like it's out of a comic book.Curious how it does though compared to a good single plane. Nice work on getting it in there for those of you that did, and I like to see that people are finally getting warmed up to the idea of cutting to make stuff like this fit
06-04-2012, 10:23 PM
#765
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That intake, is the "big and ugly" for the ls world The thing is so big it looks like it's out of a comic book.
Curious how it does though compared to a good single plane. Nice work on getting it in there for those of you that did, and I like to see that people are finally getting warmed up to the idea of cutting to make stuff like this fit
The thing is so big it looks like it's out of a comic book.Curious how it does though compared to a good single plane. Nice work on getting it in there for those of you that did, and I like to see that people are finally getting warmed up to the idea of cutting to make stuff like this fit
06-05-2012, 11:07 PM
#769
Last night the 1st HF body saw, I broke the front off putting boash jig saw blades in it. So just use the HF blades. Traded it for a new one today after work got a few hours in on it late tonight.
all the wiper stuff, took a pic so I remember to weight it all. Anyone already know?
set the base on.
sits on the heads good
front looks like it clears the WP, I htink the LSXR 102 hit the LS1 WP? slaos clears my coolant tubes, and the LS6 valley cover I run.
Fits my unported heads ok, little bigger then the stock ports.
The runner outlets to the head are 1.02 to 1.03 wide by 2.77 tall. 2,83 CSA
The runner inlets at the plenum are 1.625 wide by 2.350 tall 3.81 CSA
runners are 10.0 long, along the middle off a runner (head face to runner radius) And only have a slight bend.
Taped all the head ports up really good, and the VC fittings, Covered the motor up in a few layers of sheets. A folded up softer blanket on the valley cover to kneel on (your gonna be there a while) And started hacking At 1st tried to keep the inner cowl truss thats over on the passenger side. So cut right along that (cuts oput the sop welds, so was gona weld it back a little on the side) And cut about 8 1/2 inchs wide back under the windshield.
That didnt work, The motor is that 3/4 inch off to the passager side so your gona have to loose that truss thing.
And the back of this intake in not square do your gonna have to slant the back, deeper on the passenger side.
I figure theres no holes around there for the cowl trim push T's to use anyway. And cutting more makes it easier to work on the car. So trimming it over not to next holes for the cowl T's and blending that back.
Tommaorw I want to get some better left handed good tin snips. The single layer metal you can cut really nice with good snips. Double layers you have to saw. But theres not alot of room to open the snips, or get you hand round them, with the heads in the way. So the more offset styles the better.
The body saw sometimes your holding the trigger down against the VC, or the cowl so no way to stop it cutting. so watch out for that haha
all the wiper stuff, took a pic so I remember to weight it all. Anyone already know?
set the base on.
sits on the heads good
front looks like it clears the WP, I htink the LSXR 102 hit the LS1 WP? slaos clears my coolant tubes, and the LS6 valley cover I run.
Fits my unported heads ok, little bigger then the stock ports.
The runner outlets to the head are 1.02 to 1.03 wide by 2.77 tall. 2,83 CSA
The runner inlets at the plenum are 1.625 wide by 2.350 tall 3.81 CSA
runners are 10.0 long, along the middle off a runner (head face to runner radius) And only have a slight bend.
Taped all the head ports up really good, and the VC fittings, Covered the motor up in a few layers of sheets. A folded up softer blanket on the valley cover to kneel on (your gonna be there a while) And started hacking
At 1st tried to keep the inner cowl truss thats over on the passenger side. So cut right along that (cuts oput the sop welds, so was gona weld it back a little on the side) And cut about 8 1/2 inchs wide back under the windshield.That didnt work, The motor is that 3/4 inch off to the passager side so your gona have to loose that truss thing.
And the back of this intake in not square do your gonna have to slant the back, deeper on the passenger side.
I figure theres no holes around there for the cowl trim push T's to use anyway. And cutting more makes it easier to work on the car. So trimming it over not to next holes for the cowl T's and blending that back.
Tommaorw I want to get some better left handed good tin snips. The single layer metal you can cut really nice with good snips. Double layers you have to saw. But theres not alot of room to open the snips, or get you hand round them, with the heads in the way. So the more offset styles the better.
The body saw sometimes your holding the trigger down against the VC, or the cowl so no way to stop it cutting. so watch out for that haha
Last edited by studderin; 06-05-2012 at 11:44 PM.
06-06-2012, 01:27 AM
#770
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Looking good man!! The new manifold looks alot bigger, but seeing the 90mm fast there, as a comparison is very interesting to the real size of things.
Yeah the snips work good, When you put your plastic windshield covers back on trimmed up, the manifold will look more factory like!
Yeah the snips work good, When you put your plastic windshield covers back on trimmed up, the manifold will look more factory like!
06-06-2012, 10:28 AM
#773
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I lol'd when I saw the picture next to the fast 92. Makes it look so small.
Random thought; you might want to get some aquapel or rainx for the windshield if you aren't running wipers anymore. Not that you intentionally drive the car in the rain.
Random thought; you might want to get some aquapel or rainx for the windshield if you aren't running wipers anymore. Not that you intentionally drive the car in the rain.
06-06-2012, 04:12 PM
#774
ya I put some of that orange RainX washer fuild in my truck, and after squirting it a few times. I really noticed it gets alot of dust on the winsheild, I thought it sucked. But then in the rain you dont really need the wiper You have to be going a little for the water to push off, but even slow it kinda beeds up flat or something, but you can still see right though the rain drops. Ive had a few bottle but never used it, I'll put it on for sure. But I started looking for how much I really use the wipers, and I only used them after a wash the car to get the water off. I dont really go driving around down the Hway when its pouring out anyway.
Same thing with the heater, I only use it 2-3 times in the late fall. When it starts getting cold out I wear warmer close anyway, to be outside. It's not like I'm gona freeze to death not having heat. Moving the car around in the winter I let it run out in the snow and warm up. I'll have it on, if its snowing to keep the snow form buidling up to bad when I pull the car back inside, but thats about it for what I really use the heaters I don't need it for keeping the windows from fogging up ever in the last 5 years. I dont live in the jungle or anything.
You have to be going a little for the water to push off, but even slow it kinda beeds up flat or something, but you can still see right though the rain drops. Ive had a few bottle but never used it, I'll put it on for sure. But I started looking for how much I really use the wipers, and I only used them after a wash the car to get the water off. I dont really go driving around down the Hway when its pouring out anyway.Same thing with the heater, I only use it 2-3 times in the late fall. When it starts getting cold out I wear warmer close anyway, to be outside. It's not like I'm gona freeze to death not having heat. Moving the car around in the winter I let it run out in the snow and warm up. I'll have it on, if its snowing to keep the snow form buidling up to bad when I pull the car back inside, but thats about it for what I really use the heaters I don't need it for keeping the windows from fogging up ever in the last 5 years. I dont live in the jungle or anything.
Last edited by studderin; 06-06-2012 at 04:30 PM.
06-06-2012, 04:16 PM
#775
3rd runners in not pressed in the lower base, the do not fit under the lower overhang metal
got some more good WISK metal snips, hope to have it fit tonight. Not sure if Im gonna just seal up the cowl plastics solid over the screen holes, and make that a drip rail. I was thinking today I can cut the metal and bend it a little up to a little drip rail still off the glass, and have that drain to the sides, and out inside the fenders like stock.
Last edited by studderin; 06-06-2012 at 04:30 PM.
06-06-2012, 06:02 PM
#776
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Love this build and car great work... On the hf saw i use one at work all the time for trimmin up exhaust peices and misc sheet metal i took the front hoop off it and u can cut hacksaw blades in half and use them in it works great for thick layered cuts or exhaust pipe also eventully ull break the lil plastic cover with the phillips screw on it i just use a peice of tape or zip tie to hold it together. That lil 10 buck saw works good though just gotta give it a bump start sumdays
06-07-2012, 02:56 PM
#780
Here are all my pics when I did the LSXRT swap. You will need a non tcs throttle cable for extended length around the intake. Also buy the gm truck tb cable bracket. Map sensor was mounted on top and extended. Kmember was not spaced down because it didn't need to be after I measured. I also used factory round style truck rails. Fast round style bracket kit is needed. Along with spacers depending on injectors used. Only reason a hood isn't on the car is because I have other projects going on, and then had trans issues. Get ready to run a big cowl as it throws the tb up at a weird angle. Most likely a notch to the core support will be needed too. You will also need to get creative with your CAI setup. I didn't read your whole thread but I'm not sure what intake your going from. Mine was from a bbk 85\85 setup. Per a very reputable airflow engineer on this board the fast lsxrt 102\102 compared to a fast lsxr 102/102 will be within 5rwhp of each other.