Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
06-07-2012, 05:15 PM
#786
ya I got a truck TB braket, it only has a little slot the cable barly fits in so gona have to notch the winder and hopfully my cable end will fit into it good.
I could get the stock truck rails but didnt when I started looking how ugly they are. My edelbrock rails, with the stock inj dont work, got some LS3 style but the rains are to low and hit the intake, so I guess thats what the spacers are for?
But did you notice how far up off the port the inj. fit! I dont really like how that it, there way up in the bore still above the port? LS6, and the older fast the bottem of the inj, is right at the top of the ^. Not 1inch up the inj, hole
I could get the stock truck rails but didnt when I started looking how ugly they are. My edelbrock rails, with the stock inj dont work, got some LS3 style but the rains are to low and hit the intake, so I guess thats what the spacers are for?
But did you notice how far up off the port the inj. fit! I dont really like how that it, there way up in the bore still above the port? LS6, and the older fast the bottem of the inj, is right at the top of the ^. Not 1inch up the inj, hole
06-07-2012, 06:06 PM
#788
The metal square style rails look nice... The kind that came on trailblazer ss's. I had to notch tb bracket too. I did notice the injector port too. I used spacers from menards. I haven't had any issues. I'm running flowmatched Lucas 42lb's from your shop, new era.
06-07-2012, 07:59 PM
#790
I had the same issue. Fast sent me the wrong set. You can either use a set from a lsxr with no issues, or call Fast support. They will get you the OD n specs of the oring needed. Thats what I did. Got a set of like 20 from Mcmaster Carr catalog online.
06-08-2012, 12:13 AM
#791
OK, ya I thought that was be easy solution at 1st. I was looking thu some of the Orings and parts bins in the injector room at newera, I didnt find and Orings the did that. Some weird sleeves that might work but wanted to find something better the way it was made to go, before I getto it.
You have any spares of them?
I can use the metal brake at newera to to make a taller Lid thing. It can hand;e I think .080 or .090 alum. alot thinking then I thought. But looking at the G8 OTR intake filter covers there about the same thickness as a lid. SSO I'll see about making a alum lid the clips on the lower box, but fits the RT intake better, with a maff.
You have any spares of them?
I can use the metal brake at newera to to make a taller Lid thing. It can hand;e I think .080 or .090 alum. alot thinking then I thought. But looking at the G8 OTR intake filter covers there about the same thickness as a lid. SSO I'll see about making a alum lid the clips on the lower box, but fits the RT intake better, with a maff.
06-08-2012, 08:28 AM
#792
OK, ya I thought that was be easy solution at 1st. I was looking thu some of the Orings and parts bins in the injector room at newera, I didnt find and Orings the did that. Some weird sleeves that might work but wanted to find something better the way it was made to go, before I getto it.
You have any spares of them?
I can use the metal brake at newera to to make a taller Lid thing. It can hand;e I think .080 or .090 alum. alot thinking then I thought. But looking at the G8 OTR intake filter covers there about the same thickness as a lid. SSO I'll see about making a alum lid the clips on the lower box, but fits the RT intake better, with a maff.
You have any spares of them?
I can use the metal brake at newera to to make a taller Lid thing. It can hand;e I think .080 or .090 alum. alot thinking then I thought. But looking at the G8 OTR intake filter covers there about the same thickness as a lid. SSO I'll see about making a alum lid the clips on the lower box, but fits the RT intake better, with a maff.
06-08-2012, 08:55 AM
#793
FWIW, I have had MUCH better luck using ordinary car wax on my windshield over Rain-X. With the car wax the rain beads up and slides down, with the Rain-X it beads up, but sits there unless you are going over 25mph or so. Car wax is a lot cheaper too.
06-09-2012, 03:30 PM
#795
forgot about this, over the winter noticed both front spindles were flexing.
http://youtu.be/k8iV41jfSCk
I thought I heard some noises coming from the front end with the car coasting with the motor off, but could never find it? Burkhart said to tighten then nut up and Id be good. I had 6 passes, and about 50 street miles on them. The nuts were tight already, on got about 1/16 turn on what side with a big breaker bar but one side still flexed and creaked, with just me pulling on the tire. Not the weight of the car, this was not safe I wanted to be driving around on. Took them apart to fix the problem better, the spindle shaft part slides in the sleeve that welded on the spindle upright tube. And has a Nylco jam nut that holds the spindle shaft on the spindle. I guess new they were a nice slip fit. Mine were easy to remove with the nuts off (fell out), form the welded sleeve tube thu the spindles. And ovaled out, you could see the were the cars weight was pushing them into the sleeve tube were the shaft fit ended, had a step worn in. So only going to keep getting worse. No easy way to fix the removable spindle shaft setup. Had my friend nick that welded my other cage stuff fix them up. Looked at them with my racecraft spindles that are one price welded solid.
Cut the back treads off, and the extra length on the backside of the sleeve tube to get the tig touch in there. On the outside thought about putting a gusset on top of the spindle shaft but it was solid enough. And about taking some weight out of the bigger OD (2 big side flats) of the shaft on the sides that just over hangs the upright. You only need that big OD for the hub seal to ride on. But ran out of time, so just got some little ones milled out to get the tig in there. Came out great, should be good for a long time, now. Just had some spend some time re doing them and $50 to re powder coat them.
http://youtu.be/k8iV41jfSCk
I thought I heard some noises coming from the front end with the car coasting with the motor off, but could never find it? Burkhart said to tighten then nut up and Id be good. I had 6 passes, and about 50 street miles on them. The nuts were tight already, on got about 1/16 turn on what side with a big breaker bar but one side still flexed and creaked, with just me pulling on the tire. Not the weight of the car, this was not safe I wanted to be driving around on. Took them apart to fix the problem better, the spindle shaft part slides in the sleeve that welded on the spindle upright tube. And has a Nylco jam nut that holds the spindle shaft on the spindle. I guess new they were a nice slip fit. Mine were easy to remove with the nuts off (fell out), form the welded sleeve tube thu the spindles. And ovaled out, you could see the were the cars weight was pushing them into the sleeve tube were the shaft fit ended, had a step worn in. So only going to keep getting worse. No easy way to fix the removable spindle shaft setup. Had my friend nick that welded my other cage stuff fix them up. Looked at them with my racecraft spindles that are one price welded solid.
Cut the back treads off, and the extra length on the backside of the sleeve tube to get the tig touch in there. On the outside thought about putting a gusset on top of the spindle shaft but it was solid enough. And about taking some weight out of the bigger OD (2 big side flats) of the shaft on the sides that just over hangs the upright. You only need that big OD for the hub seal to ride on. But ran out of time, so just got some little ones milled out to get the tig in there. Came out great, should be good for a long time, now. Just had some spend some time re doing them and $50 to re powder coat them.
06-10-2012, 10:36 AM
#796
done fitting the LSXRT. Had it trimmed back to the last lower spot weld on the truss it attaches to the fire wall. It fit but close and think it would hit tilting back the motor the pull the trans, so cut it back flush that lest bit on the passenger side and welded to the firewall. Now I can get my hand between them so hope thats enough to not pull the intake for the trans. Also rolled a drip end around the cowl notch, to hopefully stop water form getting on the motor. The sunoco cowl should cover the middle, id should drain down the side into the fenders like normal. And gona put the plastics back trimmed in the middle for the intake, and can seal them up or whatever that needs.
Last edited by studderin; 06-10-2012 at 05:29 PM.
Any chance you will test out the pro flo intake?