Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
#841
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got the pan in last night, didn't have to drop the K. Fits good had a grind the windage tray a little for the pickup brace, dipstick tube. riviting the gasket on worked out great.
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/266568_10151403154164535_1541377794_o.jpg)
![](https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/133670_10151403443594535_215971459_o.jpg)
will get some better pics later
Some reason my stock block isn't drilled for a bolt hole this pan had in the rail?
Mocked up the trans pump, this thing moves some fuild!. No need for any kind of sqirter, the 1/4npt -6 AN fitting pissing fuild out 1-2 feet. It swirls the fluid in a 5gallon buck of oil, Its quite,self prime, and works at any angle looks like. It should work out great.
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/266568_10151403154164535_1541377794_o.jpg)
![](https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/133670_10151403443594535_215971459_o.jpg)
will get some better pics later
Some reason my stock block isn't drilled for a bolt hole this pan had in the rail?
Mocked up the trans pump, this thing moves some fuild!. No need for any kind of sqirter, the 1/4npt -6 AN fitting pissing fuild out 1-2 feet. It swirls the fluid in a 5gallon buck of oil, Its quite,self prime, and works at any angle looks like. It should work out great.
#845
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got some 120 grit and wet sanded the corner of the pan rail more till the oil passageways cleaned up to were thew gasket Oring sits. Not sure how much it was but took a while, and sanded out the contersink of the bolt holes I noticed, it it was maybe .020?
Had the jack the motor up more to get this pan in the the stock pan needed to be removed. The pickup has to fit over the main baffle, but you can do it without messing with the Kemeber, I cut the cowl for different intakes
so un cut you might get really close and have to pull a stock type intake.
Had to grind a little on the windage tray here for the dipstick not to hit it, but no big deal, just a heads up.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures017.jpg)
Also had to grind out the pocket the pickup brace bolts to the main cam nut,
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures027.jpg?t=1347918598)
Its funny bolting this really nice parts on my motor, we were joking this oil pan full setup is gona cost more then the 88K mile stock LS1 SBE is worth
The tray has tons of room is the stock crank, maybe over 1/4 inch, I think moroso says it clears up to 4.1 or somthing. But I wish it was closer. If I had the time I would make it fit closer.
Its weird too the dipstick goes in and out fine, but its super close, even hits the windage tray, and the loover right there but you dont feel it. We messed with it a little to make sure there not problems, and never got it to do anything. But It kinds bounces off a few spots. ha
Had the jack the motor up more to get this pan in the the stock pan needed to be removed. The pickup has to fit over the main baffle, but you can do it without messing with the Kemeber, I cut the cowl for different intakes
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
Had to grind a little on the windage tray here for the dipstick not to hit it, but no big deal, just a heads up.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures017.jpg)
Also had to grind out the pocket the pickup brace bolts to the main cam nut,
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures027.jpg?t=1347918598)
Its funny bolting this really nice parts on my motor, we were joking this oil pan full setup is gona cost more then the 88K mile stock LS1 SBE is worth
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
Its weird too the dipstick goes in and out fine, but its super close, even hits the windage tray, and the loover right there but you dont feel it. We messed with it a little to make sure there not problems, and never got it to do anything. But It kinds bounces off a few spots. ha
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures035.jpg)
#847
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think it breaks down like this for retail, it adds up ![Bomb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_bomb.gif)
pan $680
gasket?
CV filter mount $140
12ORB -10 fitting for CV $25 (2)
12ORB plug $15
-10 An hose ends about $22 each (4)
-10 line $15-20 a foot
Huge thanks to NewEra for getting me everything for great prices![Nut swinger](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/nutswinger.gif)
I think 2strokeracer said he wanted the baffle? But I dont think his car is fast enough to need it, it runs 11's so......
![Bomb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_bomb.gif)
pan $680
gasket?
CV filter mount $140
12ORB -10 fitting for CV $25 (2)
12ORB plug $15
-10 An hose ends about $22 each (4)
-10 line $15-20 a foot
Huge thanks to NewEra for getting me everything for great prices
![Nut swinger](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/nutswinger.gif)
I think 2strokeracer said he wanted the baffle? But I dont think his car is fast enough to need it, it runs 11's so......
Last edited by studderin; 09-18-2012 at 06:16 PM.
#852
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ya I need to get all the extra stuff I can sell. I have a ton.
Got the pump mounted and made the lines up tonight. Not that hard just took some time, Got the pump right were I wanted. Remoced the 2 little brakets spot welded to the florr pan for the heat shield. Its fits both exhaust setups, the lines run away form heat, and everything is tucked out of the way to get the trans out easy without messing with the pump. And I got the pissing line the tuck up along the trans nice so I can get my hand up on the bleed screw easy and fast. Putting a 90* hose end going into the trans would be in the way for bleeding. I had to turn down some brass NPT 45* fitting, but got them to barely turn to screw them in and keep them super close to the case like I wanted. Should would out great, just gona make a heat shield or a bracket to hold the lines so then cant touch the exhaust, and a few zipties in other spots.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures007-1.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures009-1.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures011.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures012.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures014-1.jpg)
Tomorrow I think ryan form newera is gona wire it for me, I'm gona let him to stuff on the car. Im to busy to get everything done anymore, and hes got some ele engineering degrees and reallllly good and wiring.
The CV oil filter mount, this is a nice part too.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures028.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures024-1.jpg)
Got the pump mounted and made the lines up tonight. Not that hard just took some time, Got the pump right were I wanted. Remoced the 2 little brakets spot welded to the florr pan for the heat shield. Its fits both exhaust setups, the lines run away form heat, and everything is tucked out of the way to get the trans out easy without messing with the pump. And I got the pissing line the tuck up along the trans nice so I can get my hand up on the bleed screw easy and fast. Putting a 90* hose end going into the trans would be in the way for bleeding. I had to turn down some brass NPT 45* fitting, but got them to barely turn to screw them in and keep them super close to the case like I wanted. Should would out great, just gona make a heat shield or a bracket to hold the lines so then cant touch the exhaust, and a few zipties in other spots.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures007-1.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures009-1.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures011.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures012.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures014-1.jpg)
Tomorrow I think ryan form newera is gona wire it for me, I'm gona let him to stuff on the car. Im to busy to get everything done anymore, and hes got some ele engineering degrees and reallllly good and wiring.
The CV oil filter mount, this is a nice part too.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures028.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures024-1.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures026-1.jpg)
Last edited by studderin; 09-28-2012 at 07:32 AM.
#853
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I notice on the oil pick up you welded a small strip of metal along the side of the strap. Were it bolts to the main cap. That was a good idea. Mine broke right there and caused the end of the tube to vibrate so bad it fell off.
I also notice you cut the windage tray out right there so it sits flat on the cap and not the tray.
It is coming along nicely.
I also notice you cut the windage tray out right there so it sits flat on the cap and not the tray.
It is coming along nicely.
#856
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
[QUOTE=joelster;16761241
Look at all of those damn holes! No wonder you car is 2600lbs![/QUOTE]
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
haha, It would be without the steel DS, TA. TA mount, non light anything S60, SFi bell, heavy steel flywheel, and now trans pump setup and oil filter setup. it adds up![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
got the pump line secure better, and some heat tubing (old air pump tube socks off stock manifolds
Got the oil filter mounted, gona use the stock welded nuts on the fram rail were the ABS braket went to. Just have to use a mill after work today and widen the hole pattern in the CV mount so I have 3.400 outside space. (.400 wide slots for 2 stock metric bolts) And got the -10 lines made, its easier making small lines I think. I hope non of this **** leaks. Its had a drip off the back of the pan the last 2 times Ive worked on the car this week. I think its coming form there they spot faced the weld out for the 2 smaller rear bolts that go into the rear cover. The cut most of the weld out!
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures002.jpg)
The moroso pan doesn't even have have oil in it yet and it leaking
Look at all of those damn holes! No wonder you car is 2600lbs![/QUOTE]
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
haha, It would be without the steel DS, TA. TA mount, non light anything S60, SFi bell, heavy steel flywheel, and now trans pump setup and oil filter setup. it adds up
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
got the pump line secure better, and some heat tubing (old air pump tube socks off stock manifolds
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Pictures002.jpg)
The moroso pan doesn't even have have oil in it yet and it leaking
![Huh](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/huh.gif)
Last edited by studderin; 09-28-2012 at 07:31 AM.
#857
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Pan takes 8 qts to get in the middle of the full mark with 30" -10 lines and the bigger 1060 filter. moroso says the pan holds 6, so think I'm gona take a qt out so I'll be running 7 and it will be low on the dipstick.
never got it the prime (just get oil into the filter (dry) not get oil PSi at the back of the block) with the lines dry and the 1060 filter, I dont think the pump can push air to open the anti drian back flapped in the filter? maybe with a 1061 it might?
But filled the filter feed (front bung on the pan) line with oil holding it higher then the pump (nice with the -10 lines and remote filter setup to do) It took a full qt in the line so I had to be filling up the block passage, and the pump. Put the line back on and it started to move oil to the filter. So filled the filter, the the primed the motor fine.
I have more oil pressure with this pan and filter setup then the stock pan did with a Napa gold (1522?) longer truck style filer?
I dont think that's a good thing?
never got it the prime (just get oil into the filter (dry) not get oil PSi at the back of the block) with the lines dry and the 1060 filter, I dont think the pump can push air to open the anti drian back flapped in the filter? maybe with a 1061 it might?
But filled the filter feed (front bung on the pan) line with oil holding it higher then the pump (nice with the -10 lines and remote filter setup to do) It took a full qt in the line so I had to be filling up the block passage, and the pump. Put the line back on and it started to move oil to the filter. So filled the filter, the the primed the motor fine.
I have more oil pressure with this pan and filter setup then the stock pan did with a Napa gold (1522?) longer truck style filer?
I dont think that's a good thing?
#859
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ya I htink I took some, I had the camera last night in the garage but someone dog under the car kept getting in the way. haha\
using the abs holes on the frame worked out great. line are out of the way to get the alt. and reach down there around the motor still. ect. just what I wanted
using the abs holes on the frame worked out great. line are out of the way to get the alt. and reach down there around the motor still. ect. just what I wanted