HitmanLS1

iTrader: (16)

Any results as for as hooking on the street?

Fifedogg

iTrader: (15)

Old thread but curious how these shocks have worked for people in the long run...

Broke EF

Just to update this since the thread is back up. We went 1.3 60' on them on low boost (9psi), with a TH400 and the same 3.50 gear. This was the cars 6th pass with the combo, and we did nothing but lower tire pressure.

Sean

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

^very cool, what setting was that on?

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Bumping an old thread. I'm thinking about getting these for the rear on my 02 WS6. For the front suspension, I'll be running the Viking double adjustable coilovers with a 350lb spring. Couple of questions; how well do the CE 2700's do on the street, and what lowering spring are you guys running with them? Is anyone running these with the Viking coilovers up front? Appreciate the help.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Run the viking doubles in the rear - being a t56 car you'll need as much shock adjustment as possible.

If you are still on the 10 bolt - replace the rear before worrying about shocks.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

It's pretty plain and simple. Will the comp shocks get you by... sure. Will they give you the needed suspension control for optimum performance... definitely not. If you can't swing both sets right away then get the rears first, and save up for the fronts. Keep in mind the prices will go up after the 1st. Give us a call!

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Still 10 bolt and will be for as long as I can get away with it. 90% street car that will see dig and roll racing when we go out. Other than that, and the occasional track day, just regular street driving.

big hammer

i put them on and almost think they're worse for traction on the street than stockers.

silverls1z28ofdeath

I agree with mwc. Always put the better shock on the rear of the car vs the front. I'd rather see a 3 way adjustable on the front because the front you mostly are just using the shock to control how fast the front end is coming up, which isn't really a issue until you start to start having wheeling issues. You need to control both how the tire extends in to the ground and the compression setting to help keep the tire planted in the ground in the rear. Jmo and I'm no suspension genius by any means either.

ponyhater27

iTrader: (11)

For what its worth a buddy of mine has Vikings on the front and the comps on the rear and his short times are in the low 1.5's. Like 1.52-4. 6speed car with a 9" and 4.56 gear. 28" tire.

So once again is it optimal no, but can it get the job done, yes.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

I picked up a pair of the CE shocks last year. One would only adjust to 2 of the 3 settings and the other would not extend but a third of the way.

Hencho en Mexico JUNK, I returned them and went a different direction.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

A lot of this has to do with the particular combo of the car. A M6 car with a 4.56 gear will be much more active on the shock than A4 car with a 3.73. The tires are also in the picture. A car with slicks will need a different chassis setup than a car with radials.

So... it's not that a particular shock is good or no good, it is what works with your actual combo. I can tell you that a 40.00 shock will not work as well or last as long as a good quality adjustable shock from somewhere like Afco, Strange, or Viking... and there's good reason. Sure you will find people that have had good results with the cheap shocks, but when it comes to consistency and performance, especially on marginal surfaces, the higher cost shocks will always get you to the finish line first.