How to hit 11s with bolt ons

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Jul 24, 2009 | 03:42 AM

#41

HitmanLS1

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From: MS

Quote:

Originally Posted by RaggedRides

Getting that 60 down another tenth or two would probably help more than anything.

Are you still running the 98 heads?

Jul 24, 2009 | 11:52 AM

#42

TA1364

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From: Dayton, OH

Quote:

Originally Posted by HitmanLS1

Are you still running the 98 heads?

Yes...

Quote:

Originally Posted by RaggedRides

Getting that 60 down another tenth or two would probably help more than anything.

I know that I was street tires when I ran. Should be low 1.60s when I get another ETs street.

Jul 24, 2009 | 12:40 PM

#43

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA1364

Yes...

I know that I was street tires when I ran. Should be low 1.60s when I get another ETs street.

i believe you will need 1.5s for an 11 second pass for stock internals..

Jul 24, 2009 | 12:46 PM

#44

transaman98

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From: Gardner, KS

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemons12

i believe you will need 1.5s for an 11 second pass for stock internals..

why do you say that about stock internals? or are you referring to still having the stock cam? I always think about the lower when I hear "stock internals" whoops...

Jul 24, 2009 | 12:52 PM

#45

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by transaman98

why do you say that about stock internals? or are you referring to still having the stock cam? I always think about the lower when I hear "stock internals" whoops...

stock bottom end... stock cam.. i consider it stock heads..

the reason i say that is because without a cam and heads he wont have enough to pull him on the big end.. everything he has needs to be concentrated on getting the best 60 foot he can (1.5s should do it).. without that, its not going to do it i believe because after the 1/8 mile the car is going to peter out..

Jul 24, 2009 | 01:17 PM

#46

tee-boy

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main deal

the main deal on this is (after the bolt on's) the right converter and DA. If you have an M6, it will take a high rpm launch (slipping the clutch), DA, and weight reduction (about 350 - 400 lbs). At least where I'm at.

Leave the street tires at home (those are for sissy's).

Every little bit helps.

Jul 24, 2009 | 03:24 PM

#47

TA1364

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From: Dayton, OH

Quote:

Originally Posted by tee-boy

I have Et streets,one happens to have a nail in it. DA this time of year I am sure is really crappy in Ohio.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemons12

i believe you will need 1.5s for an 11 second pass for stock internals..

Yea I know but i dont think its going to happen. Car is tunned now so I might squeak out 110mph traps. Realisticaly im probably going to run 1230s-1220s.

Jul 24, 2009 | 10:13 PM

#48

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA1364

Yea I know but i dont think its going to happen. Car is tunned now so I might squeak out 110mph traps. Realisticaly im probably going to run 1230s-1220s.

what kind of converter and what does your car weigh?

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Jul 25, 2009 | 01:00 AM

#49

TA1364

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From: Dayton, OH

yank pt4400 and probably 3500 with me in it

Jul 25, 2009 | 01:03 AM

#50

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA1364

yank pt4400 and probably 3500 with me in it

taking some weight out is definitely going to help you..

im surprised it isnt cutting quicker shorts than 1.6s with that converter..

Jul 25, 2009 | 10:44 AM

#51

TA1364

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From: Dayton, OH

It might, I was just guessing what it will do with sticky tires.

Jul 25, 2009 | 02:47 PM

#52

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA1364

It might, I was just guessing what it will do with sticky tires.

ahhhh ok i thought thats what it was doing, my bad..

Aug 2, 2009 | 04:10 PM

#53

TA1364

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Well the best I did was 12.38 @ 108 with 1.69 60'. Car isnt dead hooking and only shifting at 5500.

Aug 2, 2009 | 10:00 PM

#54

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by TA1364

Well the best I did was 12.38 @ 108 with 1.69 60'. Car isnt dead hooking and only shifting at 5500.

movie shifts up to 6k with the limiter at around 6400..
get your suspension set up correctly..

11s!

Aug 2, 2009 | 10:04 PM

#55

TA1364

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From: Dayton, OH

I made a thread about what suspenion to start with

Aug 3, 2009 | 07:47 PM

#56

LS1nut377

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From: Amarillo, Texas

well get that car on a diet and then go for suspension, torque arm, LCA relo brackets, and adj LCA's, and a cut out, electric water pump, power steering delete belt for the track only. couple of idea's

Aug 3, 2009 | 08:56 PM

#57

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1nut377

weight reduction is not your friend when you are having traction issues...

his MPH would go up and ET would slow down.. (of course if you ONLY took weight off the front it should help... but thats not easy)

Aug 3, 2009 | 09:28 PM

#58

TA1364

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From: Dayton, OH

I think I might have a shot in the fall when I go to Norwalk if I get my shift points and suspension sorted out.

Aug 4, 2009 | 08:15 AM

#59

LS1nut377

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From: Amarillo, Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemons12

well stuff like front bumper support,then a battery relocation,front sway bar in the trash can. then get suspension. badass front coil overs, adj LCA's,lca relo's, and adj torque arm, there is the traction. amazing how much suspension helps

Aug 5, 2009 | 01:17 AM

#60

Deerhunter-Z28

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Here is the setup I used:

lid, longtubes, cutout, fast 90/90 (got a good deal on it), pulley, 3.73, draglites, pt4400, some weight reduction, car weighed 3420 w/ me and I'm 230. Car was on a 275/50 mt drag radial with bone stock suspension. Went 1.52 60ft., 11.58@115 in cool weather. Corrected to a 11.64

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