Does it interfere with your HVAC system, I don't need AC, but I need heat.

 

Mine was already removed when we added the 10-point cage so I don't know for sure...but I would guess it has to go.

 

I beleive you only lose the outside vents.

 

Nope, you'll lose the entire cross duct work. The front cross bar has to fit back there somewhere and I don't think there is enough room for it. Try using a Mojave heater instead. I have one, I've just never hooked it up just yet.

 

Look at Joe Overtons TA. I think that car has the cage and the front bars do not go through the dash? They come straight down in front of the dash. Tight fit and I am too big to get in a car like that.

 

It's not where the front bars come down, it's where the cross bar up front goes across. My front bars come down right where the a-pillar vents are. It works out very nice, a really tight fit that allows me to get in and out really easy. However the cross bar hits everything on it's way across the dash to the other side. Right now it passes right through where my instrument cluster is supposed to be. I actually have to bend it back against the firewall further just to keep it under the dash. There's not a lot of space in there at all!

 

I won't run a crossbar, it is only required with a modified firewall, which I don't have, so.......

 

we are just doing a 98 1le,ram air, formula now and like you say if you dont need the bar nothing is lost,we did a few c5 vettes,and they have everything in car ac/heat/ with full cages [again no crossbar] once that goes in u lose things , bob

 

But if you don't have the cross bar it isn't and actual 10 point cage is it?

 

Speaking of Joe's car, is that cage legal? Has it been NHRA approved? I saw a couple like that at the Thunder Shootout.

 

I beleive Joe is going to redo the cage over the winter and have the bars go through the dash. The bars in it now bend around the dash.

 

It's legal to go in front of the dash like that, it's the only way to keep the heater ducting intact.

 

I believe the 10 point bar means it ties in the chassis or floorpan at 10 points?

I say if your car needs a 10 point cage then it is most likely going to be an every day driver, so go through the dash and get a heater that plugs into cig lighter. My car has no heater, so when I drive it in winter I am going to wear a big coat.

But if you want to you could go through the dash and get creative with the ducting. I am sure that with a creative mind and lots of duct tape and silicon it could be done. And that would be cool.

 

i wonder if no heat will be a problem with my car?

 

oh and one more thing, anyone have pics of a nicely done 10 point cage?

 

Gator, if you need heat in your car then just open the window.

 

hi guys ,a cage is a cage and a roll bar is a roll bar[a roll bar can have 5pts 6pts 7pts and8 pts,a cage can have 6 pt ,8,10 12pts] a lot of people call up for cages and their trying to ask for roll bars its a common mistake
, a cage is a cage most actualy are 6pt unless 2 diagnal bars go to tunnel or frame connectors[before everyone jumps on me the 2 side bars usually go to the front uprights so unless you have the 2 diags like i said and they are mandatory when cage is put on plates[pge 209 of rule book see diag. read D] if its a chassis car[ ie chevelle,malibu,corvetteanything with a full frame under it]the cage then has to be mounted to the chassis and dosnt require the 2 diags to tunnel. what else is needed are ,a window net,padding anywhere drivers helmet can contact[pge 203], and the instaler should put tabs for required shoulder harness [so its bolted to spine bar and cannot slip off you in case of accident]and if you go faster than 9.99 a chassis cert that should cover the basics thnx bob

 

heres some picts of major sprays, zo6 full cage ,all heat and ac intact, working on 98 1le formula now post picts when done bob

 

What is the cable lever for in the 2nd pic? I have seen these before.

 

Parachute