OK... Engines I can do. But getting it to work in a car, go straight and be safe???... That's has yet to be answered. I'll be asking you guys and the sponsors on here for help with that kinda stuff...

 

Hey guys, first let me say that LSMonster is one of the ABSOLUTE nicest guys you will meet, or talk to. Ever. GREAT guy!
Second. The fab work this guy does is AMAZING!
I know what he does for a "living" (can we say GENIUS) and I know what he does for his "hobby" (Can we say PERFECTIONIST), and I have become a big fan and supporter of his.
You guys can always check out my site for some of teh stuff he makes for me.


Hey LSMonster, I have what you need (25.2 Book) all you had to do is ask buddy!

 

Why not drop a mild to moderate motor in their to start to work the bugs out? Descent motor with a descent fuel pump for it.

Once you feel fomfortable with it then drop in a better motor.

 

WOW... If I would have known you'd say all that, I would have given you 50 bucks, instead of just 25... And sure, if you aren't using that book send it to me... That will save me a few bucks.

 

The "trainer" engine I have is pretty mild. 416" pump gas engine. N/A it puts out 620 HP. I want to put the nitrous on there for fun and a better feel. Below is a spec sheet on the trainer and my reasoning behind it.

Block: Production LS3 with a main cap girdle. All ARP hardware.
Crank: Callies 4.0" stroke
Rods: Comp Star 6.125"
Pistons: Wiseco. 11.3:1 C/R
Heads: E/T Performance 4.0 LS7. (In my opinion, the best small bore LS head on the market) On a bore of 4.125" and above, go with ALL PRO LSW heads.
Intake: GM carb style LS7 with a Wilson Manifold 90 degree elbow and a custom 92mm T/B
Rockers. Jesel J2K series.
Lifters: Morel
Cam: Custom solid roller. (nothing crazy)
Oiling system: ARE dry-sump.
Headers: Kooks, 1 7/8 race.
Ignition system: Note sure yet.
Nitrous system will be a dual system. 1st stage will be a Wilson Pro Flow plate set for a 150 shot or whatever traction allows. 2nd stage, will be a Wilson Pro Flow fogger kit set for whatever it takes to get me solidly and safely into the 9's @ 150 MPH.

The nitrous on top of a engine that will put me around 800/1000 @ the flywheel. And I figure if I play with that set-up for a while, I'll be ready when the 2000 HP Shoot-out engine goes in there... That's "the plan" anyway. BUT I freely admit, that I know very little about setting up cars at this point... But I'm a quick learner, and I have time

 

Sounds like a good starter motor.... just keep the bottle off of it for a while so you are not tempted

 

man I wish i could do that to my car

 

See, I told you $50 would get a long way with me



yeah, right? His starter motor is a bonafide kick *** motor!! But seriously, you should see what he has in store for it Let's just say, that one of 'em is gonna end up in my car...

 

the drop spindle essentially takes out 2" of travel in shock which is good for a big tire back-half car.... not so great for a small tire heavy stock suspension car....

its very do-able but as rough as the return roads are around here and all the bumps in the track and the hassle of loading a car that low just didn't work for me.... when i hit a bump at the far end of the track my tires would scrub the inner shock tower... and the car still wasnt low enoug to get the travel back that i needed for the small tire...

as you can see the racecraft spindles are high quality very strong pieces.... but i dont feel they are meant for "back woods", shitty track prep racing....

 

Can the racecraft spindles be made so that there is less of a drop? I already have travel limiters on my car and it's an inch or so lower already, I was going to go with the racecraft spindles, crank the springs up to get where I want to be and the back was gonna get lowered another inch or so. I figured the travel limiters might not be needed once the drop spindles are on.

 

we run the racecraft spindles on one of our cars. The 2" drop is fine. no need to make a stock height spindle. You do lose about an 1" of shock extension but thats a good thing since stock these things have way to much shock extension for drag racing. I ran our stock internal car pretty tight on suspension travel with a 275/50 radial.

I would run travel limiters reguardless of what spindle you run. You can get a better 60ft being more agressive with the rear suspension and a tight front end, then soft out back with more travel. Of course all this is dependent upon track conditions/ horsepower being applied.

 

Very nice build. Excellent attention to detail.

As for the drop spindles, if you use the correct shock/spring combo and your rear suspension is set up correctly then the spindle is the way to go. I have cars all over the country using either Burkhart or Racecraft drop spindles and the cars work killer and have no problems.

JL I still run limiters even on drop spindles.

 

Good info. Sounds like I'm all set

 

i'm not saying that 2" drop spindles dont have a place.... but where i race the return road and race track its just not a great idea to have a car very low.... i think george rays is nicer than some tracks i go to...lol

as long as you get the car, as a whole, lower to the ground and do the clearancing and extra long lca mounts for the housing, and a madman TA you should be fine...

i just wanted him to look at the whole picture and think about where he raced before he went through the things i encountered

 

When I send the car to NRC for the 25.5, we're going to put a madman tq arm on the car, and just modify the crossmember so it will work with my exhaust/build it into the 25.5 portion of the car.

I'm either going to narrow my 12 bolt, or have a fab 9 built to go in it at the same time. Not sure which way I'm gonna go yet, I've had good luck about 1 inch lower then stock in the rear and the lca's in the center hole on bmr's relocation brackets.

 

Nice looking build, where are you located?

 

I’m on the West Coast in Gilbert AZ. Near Phoenix. When you stop racing on the East Coast, we are just staring out here. We have to wait for it to cool off. It will be 112 degrees here today…

 

Thanks for all the scooby on the suspension stuff, especially the drop spindle info. I’m hoping I can make the car work with them. I like to look and I want to keep the car low. No wheelie bars and I don’t want to install any if I can help it.

 

i dont even think you will need the second stage to pull that off.

 

And speaking of limiters. I’m working on a new set-up for that. (Just in my head right now) but I think it will be a slick set-up. I’ll do a photo/write-up on it when I get to that part of the build.