TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Hey Guys. Since our cars have so many weak links I've been thinking alot about how to make it "basically" bullet proof. I understand nothing is unbreakable After I was done with everything for the drive train I thought I'd add some basic performance parts to get the car reliably into the 11's.

I was hoping some real drag guys could comment on this "11 second bullet proof f-body build". I didn't want newbie's posting up telling me to add a K&N Filter or Smooth Bellow to the list if you're following me . Its really just a very basic build with basic average pricing. Only thing on the list that is used is an LS6 intake manifold. I understand with lots of searching you could get a lot of these items cheaper if you found them used, but for simplicity sake I chose to list "new" prices.

The only item I was really on the fence about was the Stage 2 Tranny Build by Tick. With the modifications listed you would have somewhere around 400ish rwhp give or take. Some cam only guys I know run around 380ish or more at the wheels and some with wild cams run well over 400. Since these aren't crazy amounts of power I'm not sure if you would really need to get the stage 2 build since it can handle 700 pounds of torque which we would be no where near. Thanks for your time or any input. This build list is a sort of side hobby thing I'm working on that I'd really like to get nailed down.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

OK so, first I would consider a spooled rear, and go with true slicks, an M9 car shocks the driveline pretty hard. Gearing is everything in a M6 car, you want it stick, but not bog too bad.

Not sure about how much you plan on driving this car on the street, also consider some front end parts to lighten the load. didnt see any mention of lower control arms but im assuming youre using um.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Sorry about that, I forgot to mention this would be a car capable of being a daily driver, that's why I went with True trac and DR's instead of spooled and full slicks. But if someone was going for a full drag car defintely spooled and slicks

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

That's a pretty good list.

The car will be tricky to launch on DR's - adjustable shocks and a drag bar would help.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I should add adjustable shocks. AT least Koni's. I was hoping to avoid a drag bar for streetablilty. Kind of an all around sports car instead of having killer straightline performance and then getting mopped in the corners.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

Leave the Koni's to the roadracers. For drag racing it would be better to go with some adjustable Strange or QA1 shocks, at least for the rear. Both of those work just fine on the street. Being a stick car, you'll need to control the hit to the rear tires, especially running a DR, and the Koni's aren't going to cut it IMO.

You'll def need a driveshaft safety loop.

Subframe connectors would help alot.

Make sure to get adjustable LCA's so you can center up the rearend.

I'd run the trans until it breaks, then do the rebuild.

Do you already have an aftermarket shifter?

Have you done any weight reduction on the car?

That's all I can think of for now.

Mike

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Mike. I thought I would need a drive shaft safety loop. Is that because it is an 11 second car or just because its a good safety measure? Also, if it is gonna be an 11 sec car doesn't it need a roll bar as well to run at the track legally? I wasn't sure. I think the basic weight reduction would be the spare/jack/rear seats/ passenger seat which all come out to a good 100lbs.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

The DS safety loop is a good safety measure but it's also a requirement if you're running under 11.50. Same with the rollbar. I just went through all that stuff with my car over the last 6 weeks.

Mike

FST SS

Add solid motor mounts, plugs and wires, sub-frame connectors, panard rod bar.

Take away cam and clutch and you would have my car.

Excellent list......

DTB_LS1

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I'd definately ditch the Konis for some Strange or QA1s. I dropped 4 tenths on my 60' by swapping from Konis to Strange DAs in front and SAs in the rear. Other than that it's a pretty decent list.

cody161

iTrader: (18)

I was reading the NHRA rules the other night because i was trying to make sure my car would pass insoection at the LSX shootout, and if i read them right then anyhting running faster than a 13.99 is supposed to have a drive shaft safety loop. And anything under 11.499 is supposed to have a 6 pt cage i believe.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

So after all the comments I'll be adding a drive shaft safety loop and sub frame connectors. Only reason I'm not adding drag shocks and springs is that the list is aimed toward road racers and drag guys, so anything on the list needs to benifit both sides.

pddye

iTrader: (14)

Wow i'm happy I never had near that much in any of my cars to get them into the 10's. All those parts are definately worth it.