Where to buy wire for bat relocation
Where to buy wire for bat relocation I have been looking at ebay but am getting frustrated in how many choices there are. I need about 20' of 0 ga (bat to front) and 20' of 2 ga wire (bat to alt). Is welding cable the best choice (looks like large strand copper from the pics)? Should I spend the money and get audio/power cable (looks like finer strand copper)? The welding cable seems to be much cheaper.
I used 0 ga. welding cable, and it's worked out pretty good so far. I did add an extra layer of heat shrink to it (alot I know, but I did it to be safe) because I thought the insulation cut off a little too easy.
Other then that, it's been working out fine. I ran a 0 ga wire from the ground to a stud we welded to the rollcage plate, that seems to have been enough to get a good solid ground. Then 0 ga to the push/pull switch, then 0 ga up to the firewall, ran a bulkhead connector thru the firewall, then 0 ga up to where the old battery was and tied all the factory wires together there.
I will be rewiring the car when it's apart, engine bay wiring will definitely all be going inside, as the car will have the nessassary stuff wired only.
Other then that, it's been working out fine. I ran a 0 ga wire from the ground to a stud we welded to the rollcage plate, that seems to have been enough to get a good solid ground. Then 0 ga to the push/pull switch, then 0 ga up to the firewall, ran a bulkhead connector thru the firewall, then 0 ga up to where the old battery was and tied all the factory wires together there.
I will be rewiring the car when it's apart, engine bay wiring will definitely all be going inside, as the car will have the nessassary stuff wired only.
I had to crimp mine with a tool that pretty much looks like a bolt cutter. I got lucky and someone I knew had one. If I had to do it again, I'd probably use a vise, then just solder them with an 80 watt iron.
the hammer crimper has worked very well for me several times. i found with the vise crushing the entire connector, it didn't hold as well. if you used something inbetween the vise and connector to make a small concentrated crimp point, it would probably work well too.
I have been looking at ebay but am getting frustrated in how many choices there are. I need about 20' of 0 ga (bat to front) and 20' of 2 ga wire (bat to alt). Is welding cable the best choice (looks like large strand copper from the pics)? Should I spend the money and get audio/power cable (looks like finer strand copper)? The welding cable seems to be much cheaper.
Trending Topics
I dont crimp the end ,but solder them with a sm. torch. I have done 3 cars with 2ga. and that as worked well. Got wire from NAPA. I also make this bat. block for the front to tie cables togather. Dale Its also good to add a 200A fuse
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...use-block.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...use-block.html
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
depending on the connectors you use the best way to do it would be with some sort of hi press, ie gator's, and get a couple crimps. This is how we do crimps for transformers if we are terminating, or extending wires.
Im an electrician, and used to be pretty big into car stereo. I really believe Stinger makes some of the best automotive wire. I use it on just about everything. You dont really need it, but it usually looks a little better, and stinger has a full line of terminals/distrobution acc so you can do a nice install.
More then strands when it comes to wire the Resistance is what is important. The higher the resistance in the wire the less voltage you will get. I could get into formulas, but you are going a short didstance, and running a wire that is overkill for its application. Some people will run a 2 gauge, so i would suggest getting what ever looks the best and fits the budget.
Chris
Ps if you want to look at stinger prices, i can pm you a link to a store, that is under msrp, and reputable. But they are a nonsponer. pm me if you want it.
Im an electrician, and used to be pretty big into car stereo. I really believe Stinger makes some of the best automotive wire. I use it on just about everything. You dont really need it, but it usually looks a little better, and stinger has a full line of terminals/distrobution acc so you can do a nice install.
More then strands when it comes to wire the Resistance is what is important. The higher the resistance in the wire the less voltage you will get. I could get into formulas, but you are going a short didstance, and running a wire that is overkill for its application. Some people will run a 2 gauge, so i would suggest getting what ever looks the best and fits the budget.
Chris
Ps if you want to look at stinger prices, i can pm you a link to a store, that is under msrp, and reputable. But they are a nonsponer. pm me if you want it.
Ran 2 gauge from the battery in the rear, up to the starter. Had a hard time starting the car when it was hot. Switched to the 0 gauge welding wire, and now it starts normal. I wouldn't do any less then the 0 gauge stuff.
Thanks guys! I got the 2ga copper from summit but still need the 0 ga. I got ripped on ebay. Purchased 25' audio wire which said copper in the add but ended up being a silver color wire, which I think is the copper clad aluminum wire junk...
