Truetrac is CRAP For a 6 speed.
I knew something was wrong when every time I would accelerate out of a slow turn I would hear and feel a loud pop or two coming from the rear.
This is after only using it for 1.5 seasons and 20-30 runs per season. I didn't use the nitrous for most of the runs, but I did do second gear burnouts. The best 60' was 1.7 I think (I'm still learning).
What sucks is that Moser recommended these parts for my power level and they're not standing behind them. I guess its the chance you take for dragracing.
So, now I'm gonna spend 900 parts and labor for a spool.
The tru-crap diff, pretty much makes a 9 inch, 12 bolt or S60 into an overweight 10 bolt in the strength department.
I wouldn't put one of those things in anything period.
I knew something was wrong when every time I would accelerate out of a slow turn I would hear and feel a loud pop or two coming from the rear.
This is after only using it for 1.5 seasons and 20-30 runs per season. I didn't use the nitrous for most of the runs, but I did do second gear burnouts. The best 60' was 1.7 I think (I'm still learning).
What sucks is that Moser recommended these parts for my power level and they're not standing behind them. I guess its the chance you take for dragracing.
So, now I'm gonna spend 900 parts and labor for a spool.
They are great for hard launches in straight lines. That is about it. They will not like turning and put lots of stress on the axles, studs, and the spool when driven on the street.
On my street/strip car, I have (2) center sections. One with a locker for the street, another with a spool for the race track. That also allows me to run a nice gear for the street and a steep gear at the track.
I know true tracs have had their issues but I was just wondering if something else is causing them to fail.
That says it all right there.
900 sounds like a lot, what are you replacing?
The tru-crap diff, pretty much makes a 9 inch, 12 bolt or S60 into an overweight 10 bolt in the strength department.
I wouldn't put one of those things in anything period.
YUP he told me about those junkers last year, and I took his advice on a spool, I run mine on the street 90 percent of the time The only downfall is it is harder on tires. But there is way around that too, use a hard tire. The only trick is when turning keep the clutch engaged and power thru it, you will hardly notice its there. TAKE MY ADVICE ON THIS, I tried the detroit locker, and that was the worst mod I ever did. Ended up selling it and buying the spool.
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When you turn, you are keeping the locked axles spinning at a fixed rate, although one is trying to go a shorter distance than the other. This is the tire chirping, or the hopping, or the tire wear you experience. Pretty much your driveline is absorbing the abuse in an attempt to provide the differentiation between the inside and outside wheel that a differential would normally provide.
On a race track, you are doing it some in the pits (low speeds) and once a pass coming off the track at a moderate speed. Just you don't race for miles and miles and turn often at decent speeds as you would on the street.
With a spool, if something fails, none of the damage (and the collateral damage a broken axle, broken spool, or sheared studs would cause) would be covered by a warranty.
Last edited by BadBoo79; Oct 15, 2009 at 03:20 PM.
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I agree!
W/ my 6T5 Hemi car/5 speed, Strange recommended ONLY a locker for the street. They said the other units would not hold up..But, it was "only" at 650FW...

I thought about pulling mine apart this winter and welding my spring perches to my axle housing and selling the diff and axles for a spool 35 spline set up, but No one will probably buy it now lol

I swear... with the prices some people are getting to do simple stuff these days I should start moonlighting as a mechanic out of my garage.

I thought about pulling mine apart this winter and welding my spring perches to my axle housing and selling the diff and axles for a spool 35 spline set up, but No one will probably buy it now lol







