body seperation while staged
#3
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If it hooks, don't sweat it. You might get to the point where you will need to do something.
A lot of cars need that hit to plant, and then you will need a brake or higher stall.
I'm a little more power so it's not the exact same, but if I load mine up.
It blows the tires off instantly. I need the 1st hit to drive the tires down.
Good luck.
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#4
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I do the same w/ my car; don't know how to get around it with footbraking. My ET/60's would suffer if I didn't stall up the converter (not that it matters b/c I bracket race). The benefit to me is quicker RT due to suspension is pre-loaded. With my stall speed and on the foot brake, my car is dialed in to the 3rd amber light. If I ever go up on the stall speed, I'll just have to stage further away from the timer light in order to keep car dialed on the 3rd amber.
#5
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The rear should seperate from the body, if you are seeing that when you're footbraking up, and the car hooks that's fine.
You could try lowering teh leave rpm, it may help, may not. if the car was spinning initially, I'd try leaving a little lower, so the tires get more of an initial hit to plant them, but if it's hooking with what you're doing, it's probably o.k.
You could try stiffening the rear shocks a little, probably won't stop it, but it may decrease it a little... again could be beneficial, may not be though.
You could try lowering teh leave rpm, it may help, may not. if the car was spinning initially, I'd try leaving a little lower, so the tires get more of an initial hit to plant them, but if it's hooking with what you're doing, it's probably o.k.
You could try stiffening the rear shocks a little, probably won't stop it, but it may decrease it a little... again could be beneficial, may not be though.
#7
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If it hooks, don't sweat it. You might get to the point where you will need to do something.
A lot of cars need that hit to plant, and then you will need a brake or higher stall.
I'm a little more power so it's not the exact same, but if I load mine up.
It blows the tires off instantly. I need the 1st hit to drive the tires down.
Good luck.
.
my concern is if the car will react quicker if the rear isnt bound up during staging.
rear shocks are on 7 slicks. i usually run them at 3-4 on a lesser track.
i kept turning them up sunday and it kept on hooking.
car still seperates even with the shocks on full loose.
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#8
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Maybe I'm saying it wrong, but like I said, my car needs that hit, or flash.
I needed to launch at the lowest RPM possible without the engine hesitating.
It did not like being loaded up. I really needed the chassis to do what it's made for.
If I did have to much load, it did not drive the tire down enough and spun.
With the *** already up in the air, you are not getting the travel some cars need.
I still say, if it's working, don't touch it. If you add power and see a change, then you try something.
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#12
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They are talking about launching with your foot on the brakes, instead of the clutch or transbrake.
With the tires locked, when you give it throttle, the car tries to drive against the brakes and loads up.
With a clutch or transbrake, there is no force being applied to the slicks, & chassis.
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They are talking about launching with your foot on the brakes, instead of the clutch or transbrake.
With the tires locked, when you give it throttle, the car tries to drive against the brakes and loads up.
With a clutch or transbrake, there is no force being applied to the slicks, & chassis.
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#13
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They are talking about launching with your foot on the brakes, instead of the clutch or transbrake.
With the tires locked, when you give it throttle, the car tries to drive against the brakes and loads up.
With a clutch or transbrake, there is no force being applied to the slicks, & chassis.
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They are talking about launching with your foot on the brakes, instead of the clutch or transbrake.
With the tires locked, when you give it throttle, the car tries to drive against the brakes and loads up.
With a clutch or transbrake, there is no force being applied to the slicks, & chassis.
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that's right. there is no load w/ a transbrake since the drive isn't engaged with the load - atleast while the finger is on the button. Therefore, the body can't load against the rear end via the suspension links.
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Here is a great thread I had saved on this topic.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ear-squat.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ear-squat.html
#20
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Anti squat is where its at. I foot brake my car up to 3800 when i launch. I bet the rear of the car raises up a good 2 to 3 inches. But if you look at my 60's they speak for themselves. A consistent 1.43-1.42 car every launch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xLr5SILS_s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xLr5SILS_s