Deleted heat guys, thought this was pretty cool and cheap alternative...
#21
Chris- It is a great idea and a cheap alternative IMO. That unit could make the decision as to whether to keep making passes safely or pack the stuff up and head home. I have been in a humidity drenched worse case senario and I would have paid good money to have that $9.00 heater handy.
Our quicker car has all the heating, a/c and radio stuff yanked out, but I kept both 12 volt plugs in the console for air pumps,chargers and stuff like this heater.
Thanks for sharing man!
Our quicker car has all the heating, a/c and radio stuff yanked out, but I kept both 12 volt plugs in the console for air pumps,chargers and stuff like this heater.
Thanks for sharing man!
Larry
#22
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
I made my own just as a defroster, But it heats the car right up too. I posted pics in my build thread, cost nothing. Used The ford probe heater core thats ued in the water/IC on GTPs spare one I had. And the stock squiral cage, plugs right in, stock contraols work, and its quite.
Mighty mouse posted up useing a metal box squil cage he bought from graingers. I bought the same one, you can see it in some pics. Sitting on the floor in the car. it was heavy, and louder. What I did worked great for me.
Mighty mouse posted up useing a metal box squil cage he bought from graingers. I bought the same one, you can see it in some pics. Sitting on the floor in the car. it was heavy, and louder. What I did worked great for me.
#23
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I have a Mojave heater installed here are some pics below. I situated it so it blows up thru the stock upper dash defrost vent. Keeps the windsheild clear when I need it and provides PLENTY of heat. I even wired the lo-med-hi switch up to the factory fan speed ****.
Boy that number 8 cylinder is a bitch to change a plug on now LOL
Boy that number 8 cylinder is a bitch to change a plug on now LOL
#26
I have a Mojave heater installed here are some pics below. I situated it so it blows up thru the stock upper dash defrost vent. Keeps the windsheild clear when I need it and provides PLENTY of heat. I even wired the lo-med-hi switch up to the factory fan speed ****.
Boy that number 8 cylinder is a bitch to change a plug on now LOL
Boy that number 8 cylinder is a bitch to change a plug on now LOL
#30
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hey i've been looking for a place to put my battery (want to move it closer to the action but limited room in the engine bay... i'd be getting the biggest of the braille batteries, so mounting position shouldn't be a problem.) is the way you have your battery mounted legit? any issues at all, and is it switched or fused?
#31
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That mounting position will NOT pass tech at any NHRA track. I dont have any issues the one or two rentals I attend each year. These pictures are almost 3 years old I have since secured the battery to the firewall much better. I have had zero functionality issues it's hooked up like the regular battery is. Main idea for me was to move weight off the nose without adding the weight of cables running to the rear of the car. Works for me tho as I stated above not legit.
#32
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
ya, even thou its a sealed battery. Would still need to be in a secure box with the 2 3/8 Jbolts, or watever the spec is on them right now. Would be the same as mounting it in the hatch, that is consitored the driver compartment. Or somthing that meets the spec for having a safty/fire wall between it. .050? alum .035? steel? or whatever? Local track would never check this, and know were the battery was. For the streetcar shootouts, or MOMS events, you would be fine.
Real tech for NMCA true street they do, if you want to do that.
Its easier to just move the PCM inside the car, and mount the light battery were the PCM was. Thats what I'm doing You can even probally use the stock batery cables, and everything.
here some pics of my lightweight heater I made. Keep all the lines lower, over the frame, and wheel well. Lots of room around the motor.
The heater has a lower brace you cant see in the pics going to the dash brace. But top mounts you can see. I have valves in the HVAC planle, to stop coolent flow. But its not needed, and I'm removing them for weight, but making up a nice lightweight alum tig, bulkhead fittings 3/4-3/4 and 3/4-5/8s
Real tech for NMCA true street they do, if you want to do that.
Its easier to just move the PCM inside the car, and mount the light battery were the PCM was. Thats what I'm doing You can even probally use the stock batery cables, and everything.
here some pics of my lightweight heater I made. Keep all the lines lower, over the frame, and wheel well. Lots of room around the motor.
The heater has a lower brace you cant see in the pics going to the dash brace. But top mounts you can see. I have valves in the HVAC planle, to stop coolent flow. But its not needed, and I'm removing them for weight, but making up a nice lightweight alum tig, bulkhead fittings 3/4-3/4 and 3/4-5/8s
Last edited by studderin; 01-01-2010 at 07:24 PM.
#36
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
Its not just that 22 delete the stock or -15 pounds going to a lighter heater like I made, or the mojave.
There the heavy firewall pad, (13) the airbag and brace (14.5). trim the lower dash brace down (5) upper dash pad (5). Its more like 50-90 for what everyone is going to be doing, with running none or a lightweight heater.
There the heavy firewall pad, (13) the airbag and brace (14.5). trim the lower dash brace down (5) upper dash pad (5). Its more like 50-90 for what everyone is going to be doing, with running none or a lightweight heater.
#37
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I just finished up installing this heater in mine, weighs about 10 lbs and works great! Im running the race water pump so im just running the heater off my steam ports and im very pleased how well it works!http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102