15x10 5.5" backspacing
01-13-2010, 08:58 AM
#41
http://www.swracecars.com/store/15-x...504047DBL.aspx
Those are also available with a 5 inch backspace.. that with a 3 inch narrowed rear should pull the tire in a 1/2 inch.
Sounds good to me, I think I may have found my new wheels
Those are also available with a 5 inch backspace.. that with a 3 inch narrowed rear should pull the tire in a 1/2 inch.
Sounds good to me, I think I may have found my new wheels
01-15-2010, 06:32 AM
#46
No, he needs aerospace drag brakes in the front, so he has the cool bearing cap that you can see 
That looked way better then center caps did, at least on my car. I never put the caps back on after putting those brakes on, the cap was cooler then the bogart center cap was
That looked way better then center caps did, at least on my car. I never put the caps back on after putting those brakes on, the cap was cooler then the bogart center cap was
01-15-2010, 07:29 AM
#47
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No, he needs aerospace drag brakes in the front, so he has the cool bearing cap that you can see
That looked way better then center caps did, at least on my car. I never put the caps back on after putting those brakes on, the cap was cooler then the bogart center cap was
That looked way better then center caps did, at least on my car. I never put the caps back on after putting those brakes on, the cap was cooler then the bogart center cap was
01-17-2010, 06:06 AM
#50
Wise move for sure. The stock studs, aren't up to the task on the rear, seen too many of those break (the supplied ones with 12 bolts/9 inch rears that are stock size) And the fronts, are never long enough, any track with real tech isn't gonna like you id you still have the factory studs on.
When you get breaks, make sure you get the ones with their own hub, that way you get the 1/2 inch studs that they supply (have to change the lug nuts, but it's not a big deal) that are always long enough, and you'll get a much better bearing setup that's adjustable so you can actually have the front tires spin freely.
When you get breaks, make sure you get the ones with their own hub, that way you get the 1/2 inch studs that they supply (have to change the lug nuts, but it's not a big deal) that are always long enough, and you'll get a much better bearing setup that's adjustable so you can actually have the front tires spin freely.
01-17-2010, 11:09 AM
#51
I went cheap. I bought a set of JEG's Pro Mags last night for the car. 15x4 and 15x10 with 5.5" BS. I grabbed some 1/2" Spacers too. I was cool with taking a chance being the whole deal was under $560 shipped. My stock brakes are ground to clear the Weld draglites. More grinding may be required. Then again drag brakes may find thier way to the car.
01-17-2010, 09:14 PM
#54
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I would think everyone would want their wheel centered in the wheel well?
The amount you cut off the rear, is the amount you shift the back spacing.
A 15x10 requires 7.5 inches of back spacing, no rubbing inside or out.
Cut off 3" on each side, then reduce backspacing 3" which = 4.5"
7.5" - 3" = 4.5"
Again, don't you want the tire centered in the well?
If you were mini tubbing, then things change, but can someone explain why you would do the above?
Also:
For those in the know, what is the most you can chop off the rear on each side, before you have to relocate the control arm mounting points?
Also, can you still run in a stock suspension class with offset control arms in the rear?
How about relocating the mounting points? Stock suspension class or no?
Thanks
01-18-2010, 07:37 AM
#55
You can run relocation brackets, and you can narrow the bracket to the width of the heim joint on the control arm if you want.
You can take about 5.5 inches off per side, that will require control arm brackets to be narrowed to the width of the control arm, and you will have to do something with the phb bracket as well... but that's as much as you can go. I am plannign on a 15x12 inch rim, with a 5 inch backspace. This will, require a 5 per side narrower rear, in order to pull the tire in 1/2 an inch
Pulling the tire in the wheel well some, will do several things, one being it will keep alot of the rubber off the outside of the car, it looks better, lets you drop the car a little bit onto the tire as well so that it will have that really slammed look, all of which is fine for stock suspension class. You also reduce total weight of the rotating axle/rim assy this way, same rim width with a full width axle, or narrow the axle up and just change the wheel offset, this way you are losing weight, and gaining some strength as well.
You have to leave the front control arm mounting points where they are to be legal for stock suspension class, depending on the rules, you may have to retain stock tq arm mounting style on the housing, as that's required by some classes (meaning something like an M9 isn't legal due to the way the tq arm mounts to the housing) but that depends on the class and specific rules.
shocks can be relocated, the mounts on the rear can be relocated/narrowed that's all fine.
I'm going to pull the tires in the wheel well's about 1/2 of an inch on my car, so the 29.5 will fit up inside the wheel well, rather then having to stretch the fenders a bunch. Next time you see the car it will be done that way, along with a bunch of other stuff that I'm sure you'll like as well
You can take about 5.5 inches off per side, that will require control arm brackets to be narrowed to the width of the control arm, and you will have to do something with the phb bracket as well... but that's as much as you can go. I am plannign on a 15x12 inch rim, with a 5 inch backspace. This will, require a 5 per side narrower rear, in order to pull the tire in 1/2 an inch
Pulling the tire in the wheel well some, will do several things, one being it will keep alot of the rubber off the outside of the car, it looks better, lets you drop the car a little bit onto the tire as well so that it will have that really slammed look, all of which is fine for stock suspension class. You also reduce total weight of the rotating axle/rim assy this way, same rim width with a full width axle, or narrow the axle up and just change the wheel offset, this way you are losing weight, and gaining some strength as well.
You have to leave the front control arm mounting points where they are to be legal for stock suspension class, depending on the rules, you may have to retain stock tq arm mounting style on the housing, as that's required by some classes (meaning something like an M9 isn't legal due to the way the tq arm mounts to the housing) but that depends on the class and specific rules.
shocks can be relocated, the mounts on the rear can be relocated/narrowed that's all fine.
I'm going to pull the tires in the wheel well's about 1/2 of an inch on my car, so the 29.5 will fit up inside the wheel well, rather then having to stretch the fenders a bunch. Next time you see the car it will be done that way, along with a bunch of other stuff that I'm sure you'll like as well
Last edited by JL ws-6; 01-18-2010 at 07:44 AM.
01-18-2010, 12:24 PM
#56
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jl ws-6,
Are you going to mini tub your car? I just ordered my rear with 4.5" narrowed each side. I want to run a 15x12 rim with a 325/50 mt drag radial. My inner fenders have already been bfh'ed and I'm going to be running offset tubular lower control arms. I would like to have a 1/2" tuck using a 5.5" backspacing rim. Any idea if I can get it to fit w/out rubbing? I already fitted a 15x10 (7.5" bs w/ stock width rear) with a mt 28x11.5 drag on the car with regular lakewood boxed lca's and had plenty of room in the fender area and was able to fit a finger between the tire and lca.
Are you going to mini tub your car? I just ordered my rear with 4.5" narrowed each side. I want to run a 15x12 rim with a 325/50 mt drag radial. My inner fenders have already been bfh'ed and I'm going to be running offset tubular lower control arms. I would like to have a 1/2" tuck using a 5.5" backspacing rim. Any idea if I can get it to fit w/out rubbing? I already fitted a 15x10 (7.5" bs w/ stock width rear) with a mt 28x11.5 drag on the car with regular lakewood boxed lca's and had plenty of room in the fender area and was able to fit a finger between the tire and lca.
01-18-2010, 02:21 PM
#57
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I'm going to pull the tires in the wheel well's about 1/2 of an inch on my car, so the 29.5 will fit up inside the wheel well, rather then having to stretch the fenders a bunch. Next time you see the car it will be done that way, along with a bunch of other stuff that I'm sure you'll like as well
01-18-2010, 02:23 PM
#58
jl ws-6,
Are you going to mini tub your car? I just ordered my rear with 4.5" narrowed each side. I want to run a 15x12 rim with a 325/50 mt drag radial. My inner fenders have already been bfh'ed and I'm going to be running offset tubular lower control arms. I would like to have a 1/2" tuck using a 5.5" backspacing rim. Any idea if I can get it to fit w/out rubbing? I already fitted a 15x10 (7.5" bs w/ stock width rear) with a mt 28x11.5 drag on the car with regular lakewood boxed lca's and had plenty of room in the fender area and was able to fit a finger between the tire and lca.
Are you going to mini tub your car? I just ordered my rear with 4.5" narrowed each side. I want to run a 15x12 rim with a 325/50 mt drag radial. My inner fenders have already been bfh'ed and I'm going to be running offset tubular lower control arms. I would like to have a 1/2" tuck using a 5.5" backspacing rim. Any idea if I can get it to fit w/out rubbing? I already fitted a 15x10 (7.5" bs w/ stock width rear) with a mt 28x11.5 drag on the car with regular lakewood boxed lca's and had plenty of room in the fender area and was able to fit a finger between the tire and lca.
You'll need a set of madman lca's with the offset bushings, the arms are a smaller diameter, so that you'll have more room bwtween the tire and the lca, about an inch more then you have now, so then you can pull the tire in some. As it stands, I'm guessing the lca will hit the tire.
03-06-2010, 12:21 AM
#59
15'' x 10'' Street Lite WheelBolt Circle: 5 x 4-3/4''
Rear Spacing: 7-1/2''
Designed to fit Rear 4th Gen Camaro/Firebird
So these fit with no problems, no grinding? I'm getting Koni shocks and Strano springs which will lower my car 1.5". Anyone think that will be a problem? My car sits extremely high as it is right now, way higher then the car pictured above. I was going to get M/T ET Street Radials 275/50R15. I don't know what size tire that is in the above picture.
For the front, which ones are the f-body specific so I don't have to use spacers or grind?
15" x 4" Street Lite Wheel
Rear Spacing: 1-5/8" or Rear Spacing: 2-1/4"
Too bad they don't make these wheels for the front in 17" so I can get vette rotors.
03-08-2010, 01:42 AM
#60
I run 15x10s with 6.5bs on my Trans Am with stock length Moser 12 bolt...
I got a great price on them so I decided to give them a try they don't rub and I think they look good
15x10 with 5.5 look very nice with a narrowed rear like above though...
I got a great price on them so I decided to give them a try they don't rub and I think they look good
15x10 with 5.5 look very nice with a narrowed rear like above though...