SSPerformance

iTrader: (76)

whats the diff between the long tq arm vs the short one that goes to the tunnel brace is. Pros / cons

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

This is what I was told by Midwest Chassis when asking the same question.

the short arm is better for starting line traction as a rule of thumb. we normally setup customers with the short artm that are on drag radials, turbo, or footbrake auto trans. the short arm isd a bit more aggressivew on the tire at the hit and some of the higher powered cars with transbrake and good tires may experience wheelstands more frequent compared to a long arm.

the long arm is generally for the higher powered/track only and autocross type cars. it is generally softer on the launch and tends to promote better downtrack traction. a car with a transbrake will usually have less tendency to wheelstand with the long arm.

Doughboy692

I had a JEGS adjustable arm on my carx with the brace in the tunnel. Last year I switched to all the CM stuff that SW sells but I left the brace in the tunnel at first so I could test and check for a difference. On my car running low tens NA I made back to back passes and ended up seeing no difference.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

10 second car may not be enough for it to matter. You start getting into the 9's and faster, and it can matter a good bit.

You can still stand a car up with a long arm, see sig pic, bumper touched on that pass, and I lifted too

If I had everything set the same way, and had a short arm on the car it might have flipped over for all I know. That being said.. I really want to leave a full length arm on my car. I just wish madman would make a version of his arm that attached at the tranny crossmember. If he did, I'd buy it today.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Pretty much any competant chassis shop could make an arm like you want. I'm sure madman could. I've done 1 off stuff before.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'll do something when I'm at the point that a 25.5 is needed. Right now, with the speed it's running I'm o.k. with what I have. But... as things get faster, sooner or later I'll need something better.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

Our torque arm is going to be more aggressive, since it is a shorter torque arm. The thing about it is, if you want to make the 60' numbers, you'll have to be more aggressive. We can keep the front end from pointing skyward with travel limiters and shock/spring settings. If anyone would like some more information, or would like to order one of our products, please call me at 225-673-3533.

Here is a link of our torque arm in our online catalog:

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho....aspx?itemid=4

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The other issue I have, is the crossmember... with the exhaust I have on the car (and need to meet englishtown's regulations for Db level) I can't put the crossmember to the frame connectors, which is the only reason I haven't already bought one of yours to try.

I have the doue adjustable afco's on the car already, the rear I haven't done yet because I'm still undecided if I am going to relocate then to the back of the housing/do a coil over conversion, or leave the stock springs in the back and just go with the double adjustable style shock..

Once I have that figured out Steve I'll call ya and get the rear's ordered... the arm I'll talk to ya about. I spoke with Brian a while back about possibly making a ta arm mount/tranny cradle so to spead, something that was a small rectangle that would bolt up and attach the tq arm and the tranny. I don't know if Brian ever looked into making one or not, but it was something I talked to him about because of my exhaust issue.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

Hey, You know there is always the option of getting an un-assembled crossmember. Then you can fit the main cross bar around your exhaust, then weld on the drive shaft loop and the adjustment knuckle, then weld to the car. We've done this a few times before, and it has turned out pretty well.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Not sure if it will work steve, I'll try to get a pic under the car this week and I'll e-mail it to ya, when you see the stovepipe that I have under the car it will become more clear why it's an issue.

Ruckus46Gt

iTrader: (9)

def a good read. I ended up going with a tunnel mount tq arm mainly to keep it off the tranny. I didnt have time to check before I left if my rear seal was leaking on the tranny a little or if cracked the tail. Either way keeping it off the rear of the tranny I felt was a better idea.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Having the tq arm on the tranny.. is such a bad idea for so many reasons it's not even funny.

The poor tranny mount sees enough, it doesn't need the tq arm lifting up on it too!

GM was foolish to put it there, putting an aftermarket arm there, even worse idea.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

For a M6 street car I would never suggest a tunnel mount TA. I had nothing but issues with mine and eventually dumped it for a full length TA and TA relocation trans cross member. 60fts were the same with both set ups. All the issues left with the tunnel mount TA and I couldnt be happoer switching back.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

What issues?? I would not run anything other than the short arm. Wheels up in 1st and 2nd. LOL.

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys. I have a full long BMR tq arm that connects to my trans tail shaft. I cut 1.42 to 1.44 60's n/a on my M6 car with a 26'' tire. So,are you guys saying If I went to a short tail tq arm,my car will 60 foot better? it may also pull the wheels higher too? I would love some 1.3 60's n/a

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

With the right set of DA shocks, a short torque arm (like ours), and a little time playing with and fine tuning your set-up, hitting a 1.3x 60' is not far fetched.