You high compression guys, I need a battery...
#1
You high compression guys, I need a battery...
13.5:1 static CR, Powermaster XS stater... and the etx16 won't start it. Any suggestions on a battery for this combo? I was thinking oddessy PC680, but I'm not sure i have confidence in ANY lightweight battery to start this thing....
#5
Race your car!
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I have a regular 12 volt yellow duralast in my car, and it cranks my 13.5 to 1 motor no problem at all, same powermaster starter you have.
Just make sure your grounds are good, and ditch any LW battery, they're all junk. None of them can handle the power demands that a high comp motor will cause the starter to draw. Nevermind if you have elec. assy's, like a bottle heater or elec. water pump you want to run, both of those will kill one of the little batt's in minutes.
I went thru this headache with my car for a whole season, had 3 different LW batt's in the car, and finally just went back to a regular full size battery, and all my problems immediately went away. They are nice that they save weight, but there's plenty of other places to save the weight from, battery, isn't one that's worth it.
Just make sure your grounds are good, and ditch any LW battery, they're all junk. None of them can handle the power demands that a high comp motor will cause the starter to draw. Nevermind if you have elec. assy's, like a bottle heater or elec. water pump you want to run, both of those will kill one of the little batt's in minutes.
I went thru this headache with my car for a whole season, had 3 different LW batt's in the car, and finally just went back to a regular full size battery, and all my problems immediately went away. They are nice that they save weight, but there's plenty of other places to save the weight from, battery, isn't one that's worth it.
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#11
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Good deal, 13.5-1 is not high enough compression to have that problem usually.
25 lbs is well worth it to get back out there, and now you're good to go for a long time.
As long as you don't over drain that thing, it should last you a long time.
As for all the optima bashing. I ran red tops for more years than I can remember.
I never had one issue, and never met anyone that ever had even one issue.
I read a lot of internet bashing, but I have never had anything but great results.
One all around tip for all racecars. Use the small strand battery cable/welding cable when possible.
It just works better, and it's some tough stuff.
.
Good deal, 13.5-1 is not high enough compression to have that problem usually.
25 lbs is well worth it to get back out there, and now you're good to go for a long time.
As long as you don't over drain that thing, it should last you a long time.
As for all the optima bashing. I ran red tops for more years than I can remember.
I never had one issue, and never met anyone that ever had even one issue.
I read a lot of internet bashing, but I have never had anything but great results.
One all around tip for all racecars. Use the small strand battery cable/welding cable when possible.
It just works better, and it's some tough stuff.
.
#14
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I have this braille battery in my car.
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b2015/
It has been great all season. My 383 is 12.5:1 and the same starter you have. I will admit I can not leave the fans running long after shutting it off. But it has been through a lot over the past season. Looking for another one out of it..
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b2015/
It has been great all season. My 383 is 12.5:1 and the same starter you have. I will admit I can not leave the fans running long after shutting it off. But it has been through a lot over the past season. Looking for another one out of it..
#16
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (246)
I have a regular 12 volt yellow duralast in my car, and it cranks my 13.5 to 1 motor no problem at all, same powermaster starter you have.
Just make sure your grounds are good, and ditch any LW battery, they're all junk. None of them can handle the power demands that a high comp motor will cause the starter to draw. Nevermind if you have elec. assy's, like a bottle heater or elec. water pump you want to run, both of those will kill one of the little batt's in minutes.
I went thru this headache with my car for a whole season, had 3 different LW batt's in the car, and finally just went back to a regular full size battery, and all my problems immediately went away. They are nice that they save weight, but there's plenty of other places to save the weight from, battery, isn't one that's worth it.
Just make sure your grounds are good, and ditch any LW battery, they're all junk. None of them can handle the power demands that a high comp motor will cause the starter to draw. Nevermind if you have elec. assy's, like a bottle heater or elec. water pump you want to run, both of those will kill one of the little batt's in minutes.
I went thru this headache with my car for a whole season, had 3 different LW batt's in the car, and finally just went back to a regular full size battery, and all my problems immediately went away. They are nice that they save weight, but there's plenty of other places to save the weight from, battery, isn't one that's worth it.
#17
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I should say I did switch to 16 volt 6-7 years ago.
That would mean I bought my red tops 12-14 years ago,
and they were perfect that last season.
I ran dual no alt, single with & with out alt, and never had an issue.
Now if they sold out the racers since then and started selling crap,
I will admit my recommendation won't mean jack.
.
I should say I did switch to 16 volt 6-7 years ago.
That would mean I bought my red tops 12-14 years ago,
and they were perfect that last season.
I ran dual no alt, single with & with out alt, and never had an issue.
Now if they sold out the racers since then and started selling crap,
I will admit my recommendation won't mean jack.
.
#19
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i agree. thats all we sell for battery cables at our shop. 2 ga. and 4 ga. welding lead. it just carries an incredible amount of current. i would say your average battery and stock starter with welding cable would handle it.