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You high compression guys, I need a battery...

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Old 02-23-2010, 07:28 AM
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Default You high compression guys, I need a battery...

13.5:1 static CR, Powermaster XS stater... and the etx16 won't start it. Any suggestions on a battery for this combo? I was thinking oddessy PC680, but I'm not sure i have confidence in ANY lightweight battery to start this thing....
Old 02-23-2010, 08:52 AM
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http://www.braillebattery.com/

???
Old 02-23-2010, 09:30 AM
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Stay away from those junk *** Optimas. We have had nothing but trouble out of all of them except for 1 that has came into the shop. 1 out of 7 or 8 isn't too good in my book.
Old 02-23-2010, 10:17 AM
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I would like to know this as well, 13.5-1 here and i have an optima in the trunk
Old 02-23-2010, 10:53 AM
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I have a regular 12 volt yellow duralast in my car, and it cranks my 13.5 to 1 motor no problem at all, same powermaster starter you have.

Just make sure your grounds are good, and ditch any LW battery, they're all junk. None of them can handle the power demands that a high comp motor will cause the starter to draw. Nevermind if you have elec. assy's, like a bottle heater or elec. water pump you want to run, both of those will kill one of the little batt's in minutes.

I went thru this headache with my car for a whole season, had 3 different LW batt's in the car, and finally just went back to a regular full size battery, and all my problems immediately went away. They are nice that they save weight, but there's plenty of other places to save the weight from, battery, isn't one that's worth it.
Old 02-23-2010, 11:25 AM
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Find one with the highest CCA's you can find.
FWIW I've got an Optima red top and its been fine for years.
Old 02-23-2010, 04:52 PM
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Yeah I have a 6yr Optima red top and a stock starter.
Old 02-23-2010, 05:48 PM
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My Hod Rod is 347 13.5 to 1 motor with a stock starter. I run a walmart replace battery with no problems. I would look at grounds and wiring to see if that is the problem. Good luck and please keep us posted.

Coach
Old 02-23-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
13.5:1 static CR, Powermaster XS stater... and the etx16 won't start it. Any suggestions on a battery for this combo? I was thinking oddessy PC680, but I'm not sure i have confidence in ANY lightweight battery to start this thing....
is your battery in the front or back? and the pc680 starts my brothers 417sbc with 12compression. thats what i plan to use on my 12.5cr ls1
Old 02-23-2010, 09:46 PM
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picked up a duralast gold, something like 950 cranking amps, and it starts like a champ now, just wish i hadn't gained 25 pounds to do it thanks for all the responses guys
Old 02-23-2010, 09:56 PM
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.

Good deal, 13.5-1 is not high enough compression to have that problem usually.
25 lbs is well worth it to get back out there, and now you're good to go for a long time.
As long as you don't over drain that thing, it should last you a long time.

As for all the optima bashing. I ran red tops for more years than I can remember.
I never had one issue, and never met anyone that ever had even one issue.
I read a lot of internet bashing, but I have never had anything but great results.

One all around tip for all racecars. Use the small strand battery cable/welding cable when possible.
It just works better, and it's some tough stuff.


.
Old 02-24-2010, 07:50 AM
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I'm glad that you have had luck out of them, I have seen nothing but problems though.
Old 02-24-2010, 05:29 PM
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3 optimas in 2 years in my car... always killed a cell in the battery, one only lasted two months, and this is when the car was a daily driver
Old 02-24-2010, 10:11 PM
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I have this braille battery in my car.

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b2015/

It has been great all season. My 383 is 12.5:1 and the same starter you have. I will admit I can not leave the fans running long after shutting it off. But it has been through a lot over the past season. Looking for another one out of it..
Old 02-24-2010, 10:14 PM
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my red top does just fine in my 80TA with 13:1
Old 02-25-2010, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I have a regular 12 volt yellow duralast in my car, and it cranks my 13.5 to 1 motor no problem at all, same powermaster starter you have.

Just make sure your grounds are good, and ditch any LW battery, they're all junk. None of them can handle the power demands that a high comp motor will cause the starter to draw. Nevermind if you have elec. assy's, like a bottle heater or elec. water pump you want to run, both of those will kill one of the little batt's in minutes.

I went thru this headache with my car for a whole season, had 3 different LW batt's in the car, and finally just went back to a regular full size battery, and all my problems immediately went away. They are nice that they save weight, but there's plenty of other places to save the weight from, battery, isn't one that's worth it.
My car and my my bros car have cheapies in there. MY bro has duralast and I have a interstate. They have never given us any problems.
Old 02-25-2010, 01:14 PM
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.

I should say I did switch to 16 volt 6-7 years ago.
That would mean I bought my red tops 12-14 years ago,
and they were perfect that last season.
I ran dual no alt, single with & with out alt, and never had an issue.

Now if they sold out the racers since then and started selling crap,
I will admit my recommendation won't mean jack.


.
Old 02-25-2010, 02:04 PM
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+1 for braille

i bought the 17lb starts the car right up and hold a good charge w/ my ewp

only race battery company that has a 2 yr warranty!

-brandon
Old 02-25-2010, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
.


One all around tip for all racecars. Use the small strand battery cable/welding cable when possible.
It just works better, and it's some tough stuff.


.
i agree. thats all we sell for battery cables at our shop. 2 ga. and 4 ga. welding lead. it just carries an incredible amount of current. i would say your average battery and stock starter with welding cable would handle it.
Old 02-26-2010, 04:06 AM
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i think a big part of my problem was that this being an LT1 we run tight centers, and I have an ICL of 105. IVC is always early to keep the powerband down below our PCMs cutoff, and thus a lot of cranking compression.



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