Installing my wolfe 6pt. next sat install questions?? !!UPDATE!!
04-16-2010, 10:21 PM
#1
Installing my wolfe 6pt. next sat install questions?? !!UPDATE!! I will be installing my 6 point weld in cage from wolfe next saturdayin my T/A , I have a few questions about the install.
1. I am goint to start with the main hoop and then weld the rear bars and then the door bars.
2. Do you leave the headliner in the car Its a t-top car??? It looks like if removed it will not be able to be put back in.
3. The rear passenger compartment large side panels, that cover the speakers
Do they have to stay in the car or be removed???
4. Does anyone have any pics of where they placed the plates that the tubes weld to, where the hoop and doorbar plates go, I am running with the rear bars that go in thru the wells,(speaker holes). Checked their site and the only pic I seen was of the hoop.
I have seen post about people powdercoating the cages,, HOW in the world are they doing that, For it to be uniform it would have to be all welded up, and then coated and baked. Or am I missing something.
wanna get this right the first time,, thanks fellas
1. I am goint to start with the main hoop and then weld the rear bars and then the door bars.
2. Do you leave the headliner in the car Its a t-top car??? It looks like if removed it will not be able to be put back in.
3. The rear passenger compartment large side panels, that cover the speakers
Do they have to stay in the car or be removed???
4. Does anyone have any pics of where they placed the plates that the tubes weld to, where the hoop and doorbar plates go, I am running with the rear bars that go in thru the wells,(speaker holes). Checked their site and the only pic I seen was of the hoop.
I have seen post about people powdercoating the cages,, HOW in the world are they doing that, For it to be uniform it would have to be all welded up, and then coated and baked. Or am I missing something.
wanna get this right the first time,, thanks fellas
Last edited by RARON455; 04-24-2010 at 10:30 PM.
04-16-2010, 10:50 PM
#3
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I am about to do the same install, waiting on the cage to get here. I started pulling out the interior today. I believe it is possible to remove the main hoop and rear bars (blue part) has one piece once their tacked together. If you can get them out of the car it will be much easier to weld and paint. Then reinstall and make the welds to the floor which should be much easier. Finally tape off the ends of the door bars and paint. Install them, weld them up. then paint he rest of the welds. Probably with a brush so there is no over spray.
04-16-2010, 11:28 PM
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It may or may not be possible to remove and install the main hoop with the rear bars attached. The way to tell is to construct a PVC mock-up.
Last edited by Gary Z; 04-16-2010 at 11:33 PM.
04-17-2010, 12:40 AM
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cut a couple holes in the floor, put the roll bar through it, do the welding down low, raise the assembly and put in your 6x6 plates on top of the holes and then weld that. Might paint most of it before raising it too. Do the raise & weld, then paint the lower section.
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04-17-2010, 10:09 AM
#9
So did you leave the headliner in the car, and then tack it and the rear bars together and then pull it out and weld them all together and then re-install the cage and weld to the plates? I have the rear bars that go to the wheelwells, I think the rear bars that go to the trunk floor might be easier to remove from the rear.
I just dont want to remove my headliner, side covers and put the cage in only to find out that after I wont be able to put those interior pieces back in. But also, I know how thin the headliner is and what would happen if any heat got to it.
I just dont want to remove my headliner, side covers and put the cage in only to find out that after I wont be able to put those interior pieces back in. But also, I know how thin the headliner is and what would happen if any heat got to it.
04-17-2010, 12:08 PM
#10
check my build thread I did this with alot of pics. I tilted my hoop back a little more, and cut the over the seat bars so there sat right on top of the shock mounts were there alot of thick metal there. I got the hoop. rearbars, and plates out of the car welded and painted most of it, I left my headliner but took the seatbelts out at that time.
04-17-2010, 02:04 PM
#12
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i have the over the seat bars......yes the head liner was in when i welded it up.....the welding suply store will have some ....i cant think of what its called but its like a cloth that wont burn..and use a pice of metal for the heat and sparks.
04-17-2010, 04:49 PM
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Welding blanket. 3M also makes an adhesive backed paper that roughly serves the same purpose. I think pulling the whole thing out to weld is going overboard. Put the door bars in LAST. B-hoop cross bar can be done out of the car... Get your floor plates in, get everything fit up nicely, put 4 strong tacks around the B-hoop to rear bars, walk the assembly forward a foot, burn 'em in, walk it back and weld to the floor plates... Install the door bars and you're done.
04-24-2010, 10:29 PM
#16
Allright, this is for anyone who searches I hope to answer some of your questions. First of all the wolf cage is by far the best fitting cage I have ever seen, It went right into place. Also Pay the extra 100$ for the jig notching, Cant imagine how much of a pita this would have been without the notching. I spent a good amount of time forming the plates to the floor and wheelwell to match the contours of the floor, that way I could get the maximum amount of contact for welded strength. Now here are a few helpful facts.
1. You absolutely have to leave the headliner in the car, if you pull it out and put the cage in your screwed, you will not be able to get it back in. after mocking it up I seen that for sure. so i put mine in with the upholstry in.
2. the side panels in the rear passenger compt., It is fine to remove them, getting them back in is no big deal.
3. IF you go with the wheelwell bars, Like I did, there is no tacking the main hoop to the rear bars and then sliding it forward to weld, You have to leave it all there and just protect your upholstry, I used a fire blanket to keep mine safe.
4. When installing, tack the main hoop into place, then the rear bars then the door bars. Make sure that all the welding is done before putting the crossbar in, it is definately in the way. This just makes the install easier.
5.There is a little area on the very top of the main hoop (about 1/8 inch maybe) where the rear bars go that You really cant weld, just make sure you get as much as possible. It will be fine.
6. I made mine so that the door bars are removable, bought a swingout kit for the bottom of the bars, and then made some inserts and a plate for the top. about two hours on the lathe and mill, at work. I dont care for a swingout door bar, Mine will either be in or be out...
7. After install and you are ready to paint, this is much more difficult than installing the cage, You need to cover everything, overspray will get everywhere, I am serious everywhere, I took almost two hours covering all the interior of the car, dash, body weatherstripping ETC. paint from the top down and from the inside of the car out, be careful not to hit your fresh paint. I went gloss black, (rustoleum bare metal primer, and three coats of their gloss black enamel)It looks terrific and I could not be happier with the fit and appearance I would post pics of the finished cage but right now everything is still taped off, and I dont want to remove anything for fear of hitting the fresh paint.
Thats about it, If anyone needs more pics of plate placement or such send me a PM I have some pics of the plates. I hope this helps someone. If you are doing this yourself and need a lil help or advice I am more than willing to Help.
1. You absolutely have to leave the headliner in the car, if you pull it out and put the cage in your screwed, you will not be able to get it back in. after mocking it up I seen that for sure. so i put mine in with the upholstry in.
2. the side panels in the rear passenger compt., It is fine to remove them, getting them back in is no big deal.
3. IF you go with the wheelwell bars, Like I did, there is no tacking the main hoop to the rear bars and then sliding it forward to weld, You have to leave it all there and just protect your upholstry, I used a fire blanket to keep mine safe.
4. When installing, tack the main hoop into place, then the rear bars then the door bars. Make sure that all the welding is done before putting the crossbar in, it is definately in the way. This just makes the install easier.
5.There is a little area on the very top of the main hoop (about 1/8 inch maybe) where the rear bars go that You really cant weld, just make sure you get as much as possible. It will be fine.
6. I made mine so that the door bars are removable, bought a swingout kit for the bottom of the bars, and then made some inserts and a plate for the top. about two hours on the lathe and mill, at work. I dont care for a swingout door bar, Mine will either be in or be out...
7. After install and you are ready to paint, this is much more difficult than installing the cage, You need to cover everything, overspray will get everywhere, I am serious everywhere, I took almost two hours covering all the interior of the car, dash, body weatherstripping ETC. paint from the top down and from the inside of the car out, be careful not to hit your fresh paint. I went gloss black, (rustoleum bare metal primer, and three coats of their gloss black enamel)It looks terrific and I could not be happier with the fit and appearance I would post pics of the finished cage but right now everything is still taped off, and I dont want to remove anything for fear of hitting the fresh paint.
Thats about it, If anyone needs more pics of plate placement or such send me a PM I have some pics of the plates. I hope this helps someone. If you are doing this yourself and need a lil help or advice I am more than willing to Help.
04-25-2010, 09:44 AM
#18
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Here's a link to my install with pics..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...-drag-bar.html
I went with the over the seat bars and tacked the rear bars to the main hoop, slide it out of the car and welded everything in and then painted it, then put it back in the car and welded door bars in.
Hope this helps you, and yes jig notching is a must and well worth the extra $100
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...-drag-bar.html
I went with the over the seat bars and tacked the rear bars to the main hoop, slide it out of the car and welded everything in and then painted it, then put it back in the car and welded door bars in.
Hope this helps you, and yes jig notching is a must and well worth the extra $100
04-25-2010, 12:29 PM
#19
Looks good! I just picked up a Wolfe bolt in yesterday just like yours. Im going to install it today. I would have got a weld in but my future plans with the car will require a CM 10 pt or better So I wanted the wheel well rear bars(dont want to mess up the carpet) and a bolt in will be an easy sale when Im ready (aka can afford) for an upgrade.
04-25-2010, 01:58 PM
#20
Looks good! I just picked up a Wolfe bolt in yesterday just like yours. Im going to install it today. I would have got a weld in but my future plans with the car will require a CM 10 pt or better So I wanted the wheel well rear bars(dont want to mess up the carpet) and a bolt in will be an easy sale when Im ready (aka can afford) for an upgrade.