looking for a 10 sec. run .what do you guys think?
#1
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hello,i went to the track last week after a cam only change.car dynoed 325 h.p. on a dynojet.i ran a 12.35 with a 1.70's 60 ft.currently ,im running a dynotune wet kit with 100 r.w. jets.usually i knock 1 second off the car with the bottle,but the track was not hooking well that night. i went 11.50's on the bottle.soon ,i will be adding the racetronix pump and hot wire kit.also i will be switching from a nozzle to a plate,the 250 h.p. solenoids,and a progressive controller,and running 150 r.w. jets.is it possible to get into the 10's with this combo?also,the car has 60,000 miles ,so is it o.k. to run a 150 r.w. shot? i do have a wideband,fpss switch,and lingenfelter timing retard.i know i need a colder plug than a tr-6.also i'm pulling 4 degrees on the lingenfelter on activation with the 100 r.w. shot.how much with a 150 r.w. shot.just trying to be safe and to get some of you nitrous guys opinions.any help is appreciated.
#2
10 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
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I'll tell you my bud sprayed his 100,000mi motor for three years and sold the car with it still running strong. Lil more info on your car? auto/stick? rearend,gears,headers?ect?? I pull one deg for every 50hp,then one extra to be safe. on my 150 shot i pull 4 deg total. On the dyno I show no sign of any trouble.
#6
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thanks for your input guy's.so if i run a 11.30's na ,what kind of r.w. shot will i need to run high 10's thanks.i want to run a progeessive shot to save the 10 bolt.also i'm an auto with a 3400 stall.
#10
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
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Whats the drivetrain and suspension on the car, tire, raceweight.
What your going to run into is either the car's suspension works too well and you need to get it under control, or your need to rely on the progressive to control it and you loose that "hit" that gets the heavy cars out the hole.
Listen to JL, he is on a biz trip this week but PM him about further details.
IMO you need to dump some weight from the car, and if its a auto, your half way there. IF it is a M6 car. You need on motor about 450(m6) and then 150 shot. Auto Power #'s will be different but the converter needs to be loose and the rear needs to be geared up.
I am trying to speak on both sides of the coin as requirements change.
Also getting a good air quality day w/ good prep may ultimately be what you need most for the elusive 10 sec slip.
What your going to run into is either the car's suspension works too well and you need to get it under control, or your need to rely on the progressive to control it and you loose that "hit" that gets the heavy cars out the hole.
Listen to JL, he is on a biz trip this week but PM him about further details.
IMO you need to dump some weight from the car, and if its a auto, your half way there. IF it is a M6 car. You need on motor about 450(m6) and then 150 shot. Auto Power #'s will be different but the converter needs to be loose and the rear needs to be geared up.
I am trying to speak on both sides of the coin as requirements change.
Also getting a good air quality day w/ good prep may ultimately be what you need most for the elusive 10 sec slip.
#11
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
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Whats the drivetrain and suspension on the car, tire, raceweight.
What your going to run into is either the car's suspension works too well and you need to get it under control, or your need to rely on the progressive to control it and you loose that "hit" that gets the heavy cars out the hole.
Listen to JL, he is on a biz trip this week but PM him about further details.
IMO you need to dump some weight from the car, and if its a auto, your half way there. IF it is a M6 car. You need on motor about 450(m6) and then 150 shot. Auto Power #'s will be different but the converter needs to be loose and the rear needs to be geared up.
I am trying to speak on both sides of the coin as requirements change.
Also getting a good air quality day w/ good prep may ultimately be what you need most for the elusive 10 sec slip.
What your going to run into is either the car's suspension works too well and you need to get it under control, or your need to rely on the progressive to control it and you loose that "hit" that gets the heavy cars out the hole.
Listen to JL, he is on a biz trip this week but PM him about further details.
IMO you need to dump some weight from the car, and if its a auto, your half way there. IF it is a M6 car. You need on motor about 450(m6) and then 150 shot. Auto Power #'s will be different but the converter needs to be loose and the rear needs to be geared up.
I am trying to speak on both sides of the coin as requirements change.
Also getting a good air quality day w/ good prep may ultimately be what you need most for the elusive 10 sec slip.
#12
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
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I assumed heavy race weight which CAN be between 4,000-4,400 lbs depending on Camaro vs T/A, Weight of driver, Options.
And when you throw in a 4L60e car with a loose converter the power #'s are different.
I have seen a lighter street car, that makes 405 rwhp H/C but runs a 4.10 gear and a GTO trans, on ET Street Slicks run mid 11's in optimal weather but to get to the 10 sec (10.9x) slip, he needed to drop a further 250 lbs and add 100 of nitrous.
That just one example of what it takes to run a time and then you run into suspension requirements.
A4 cars have a somewhat easier time but then the 4LJunkiE is on borrowed time due to a loose converter, RPM, and TQ management being removed.
To make it a long story short, more info is needed and I would est on the highside vs the bear min.
Nothing is worse then having a 10.9999 slip but the car ave is 11.30's
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#13
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
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True we need more info but he has 325rwhp and runs 12.3s on a 1.7 60ft NA so hes not anywhere close to 450. So by the time hes goin 11.3s NA Im sure he would have more done to the car. The 1.7 60 leads me to believe he at least has some suspension now.
My car had 405 rwhp and went mid 11s @ 120 NA with a 1.68 60ft on stock style non adjustable suspension with stock shocks & springs. Since then alot has changed so Im betting on low 11s NA and low low 10s high 9s on a 200 shot
My car had 405 rwhp and went mid 11s @ 120 NA with a 1.68 60ft on stock style non adjustable suspension with stock shocks & springs. Since then alot has changed so Im betting on low 11s NA and low low 10s high 9s on a 200 shot
#16
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thanks for all the post.i appreciate it.my car is a 2001 b4c camaro.slp cold air intake,ported throttle body,stock exhaust(changed the stock muffler to a magnaflow),cheatr v3 cam package,wet dynotune nozzle kit,3400 stall,and m.t. 255-50 16" tires.stock snowflake rims.stock suspension. i went with this route,because i did not want headers.this cam works well with stock exhaust and nitrous..car was tuned by geoff at engine power systems in baton rouge.it dyoed 325-310 on the dynojet.i was just looking for a few suggestions on how to get the car in the 10's on the bottle. na i went 12.35 at 110 with a 1.79 60 ft.i did have trouble hooking since the cam install.i had 16lbs in the tires.i am happy the way the car drives and perform's,so it's not really a big deal to me to run in the 10's.i really only want to run a 150 r.w. shot ,so i'm seeing now it won't get me there.thanks guys.
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
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Oh and I dont think HP alone will get you any where fast. When Im typing I guess im more referring to cars like chrs1313 or more drag orientated cars.
#20
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
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If we all ran in 40 degree weather at sea level tracks maybe all of us would have 10 second cars lol. Not all tracks are created equal. Don't worry about comparing your car to others on the net across the country. Just look at what the other guys at your track are running and you will know how well you are doing.