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m/t 28x10.50x15s pressure

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Old 05-14-2010 | 01:22 AM
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Default m/t 28x10.50x15s pressure

i have a full weight M6 408 car.. and i was wondering what pressures to start at with the slicks.. had then at 20 and they sucked... thought it needed more spin so went to 22.... but it really really seems to much pressure????????????
Old 05-14-2010 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 98mysticZ
i have a full weight M6 408 car.. and i was wondering what pressures to start at with the slicks.. had then at 20 and they sucked... thought it needed more spin so went to 22.... but it really really seems to much pressure????????????
I run about 14-16 depending on the track. 90% of the time it's 15. I'm an A3 with a T-brake so I shock the tires pretty good when I use it. More weight usually requires more psi but then again it really has a bunch of variables.

Car looks pretty nasty, but you can see how the back tires react to 15psi and 3500lbs.

Old 05-14-2010 | 01:54 AM
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Typically don't go higher than 16psi.....sweet spot seems to be around 14.....
Old 05-14-2010 | 02:01 AM
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well i was running 20 and it was bogging HARD... so i went to 22 and dropped it at 5500 and it was "better" but broke the trutrack so i swapped tires and went home... so i need to be running them lower?
Old 05-14-2010 | 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 98mysticZ
well i was running 20 and it was bogging HARD... so i went to 22 and dropped it at 5500 and it was "better" but broke the trutrack so i swapped tires and went home... so i need to be running them lower?
Wouldn't hurt to try. What are your other suspension mods?
Old 05-14-2010 | 03:20 AM
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car weighs near 4000 raceweight...
makes 480 on motor
6 speed with 3.90's
28 inch mt slicks id guess

think hes got a bunch of suspension just not enough power/gear to 60 on motor...hes got dope
Old 05-14-2010 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by daniel6718
car weighs near 4000 raceweight...
makes 480 on motor
6 speed with 3.90's
28 inch mt slicks id guess

think hes got a bunch of suspension just not enough power/gear to 60 on motor...hes got dope
Are his LCA's adjustable/rod ends or not?
Old 05-15-2010 | 07:00 PM
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its full UMI rear susp with a sphon drag bar but the lca's are not adj and are poly... and its a 10.50s stiff side wall and stock rear springs and shocks
Old 05-15-2010 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 98mysticZ
its full UMI rear susp with a sphon drag bar but the lca's are not adj and are poly... and its a 10.50s stiff side wall and stock rear springs and shocks
Do you have the LCA's tightened really tight? You should use a lock nut on them and just have them snug, your LCA's aren't working if you have them tightened down too tight.

Or you can loosen the current nut off and drill a small hole in the bolt and put a cotter pin through it so it doesn't back off.

That will help significantly also.

Or just get some heim joint LCA's so they work freely.

Last edited by StreetSilverado; 05-16-2010 at 02:33 AM.
Old 05-15-2010 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetSilverado
Do you have the LCA's tightened really tight? You should use a lock nut on them and just have the snug, your LCA's aren't working if you have them tightened down too much.

Or you can loosen the current nut off and drill a small hole in the bolt and put a cotter pin through it so it doesn't back off.

That will help significantly also.

Or just get some heim joint LCA's so they work freely.


what?
Old 05-17-2010 | 12:37 AM
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he is probably just saying there is resistance or the possiablilty of bind with the poly bushings and the rod end has none...so there is more force needed to move the suspension and its taking away from the power transfer or something like that.. i remember my grandfather said they used to pull control arms out and grind down the sleves that had the groves on them lube the **** out of then and put them back on because the had less resistance when u moved them there for quicker and took lest power or someshit.... i was like sure thats what yall did but now i see the point
Old 05-17-2010 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 98mysticZ
he is probably just saying there is resistance or the possiablilty of bind with the poly bushings and the rod end has none...so there is more force needed to move the suspension and its taking away from the power transfer or something like that.. i remember my grandfather said they used to pull control arms out and grind down the sleves that had the groves on them lube the **** out of then and put them back on because the had less resistance when u moved them there for quicker and took lest power or someshit.... i was like sure thats what yall did but now i see the point
My grandpa talked me into the exact same thing. I went with the rod ends and it definitely works. I thought nothing about it and just when on, but finally listened and it worked.

It has also helped one of my buddies with the (BMR or Spohn?) Non-Adjustable LCA's with the poly ends by loosening them off.

Just trying to help with the small stuff, because sometimes it will make a big difference.




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