Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...t-driving.html

see my other thread here. perhaps this is where I should have posted it since this is where people will have the most experience with these batteries.

chris

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I plan on running the Braile 3121 in my car.

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

I ran a Braile in mine for a few months. PITA! Died all the time and with a pin-on hood it really sucked. Go for the rear-mount Optima

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

oddesey pc680 works great.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Same here

repo

iTrader: (2)

I have one simuar to the pc680 I purchased at a local battery store. It works great. I have had pc680's in the past. This one has 50 more cranking amps and was 40 bucks cheaper. The only drawback to these batteries is the winter. They don't like tempratures below freezing and won't or barely start. Its worth it for me.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Is there any lighter "stock style" batterys? I can't have my car be on the verge of dieing all the time or anything, but I would love to shed some pounds.. I know the optima are pretty heavy.. I would think a cheapy battery could be lighter or something?

01sscam

My PC680 has worked great for years.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Do you DD it?

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

yeah this car wont be driven at all in the rain or snow. so no worries about that. infact it'll be on the batt. tender while not driven all the time except when at cruises, or car shows for the most part. I'll look into the oddesey pc680. still would love to hear some more stories/experiences. I know the hassle with pinon hoods and would never do that on a street car again.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Which model Braile battery did you run? The 3121 or another version?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Screw that PC680. If you have any added compression, get ready to have alot of headaches. If you are gonna put one of those junk batteries in your car better plan on bringing a jump pack with you everywhere you go, because I guarintee within 6 months you will need it at least once or twice.

That battery, has absolutely no capacity, rolling the windows up and down will be enough to kill it if the car's sitting not running for any added time, especially if it's cold outside.

I had two of them, fought with this little **** battery for a whole season, believe me when I say it's NOT worth the headache.

Put a full size one in the trunk, and be done with it. Way less headache, and believe me the weight that it puts in the back of the car vs the weight you will lose with the little battery, will end up not making any difference, other then the # of asprin/advil/excedrin that you will take due to dead battery issues.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

yeah I think it is 10.9:1. dont remember exactly.

Im listening. starting to sway towards a typical battery for now. when it is track ready, may go this route. still undecided.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I have a track only car and wouldn't tell the competition to put this in their car. It's a headache, and not even close to worth the risk.

If you want to put the BIG PC battery in, not sure what the # is, and put that in the back, I know a couple people that did that, but it's only like 5 or 8 lbs lighter then a regular battery... not enough to worry about or be worth the added $ IMO.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Just my personal experience with the PC680 I run it in the spring ,summer,fall with zero issues. The battery is probably four years old. Cranks the windows up and down my motor has about 11.5:1 and never even so much as a hiccup. Again just my personal experience with this battery. The one and only thing it doea different than a full size battery is resets the trip odometer and the guages sweep on startup.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Try that battery with 13 or 14 to 1. You'll find it's good for about... 3 startups before you are having problems.

I speak from experience... you've been lucky.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

The title of the thread states race battery in a street car. Most "street cars" do not have 13-14:1 compression. Sounds like your alternator was not charging correctly.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

PC680 I had for 4-5 years. I would need to jump it in the winter (NY), after the car sat in my parents garage for 2+ weeks. Or If I left a door open for 1 hour or somthing. I left the hatch open changing cams ON the dyno resently. And the "smart" jumper box at newera would not jump it said it had a damaged cell. Long story short, I bought a clone of it, darker red??? hawker or somthing? But I recharged the PC680 later with a normal charger, and it hold 12-11.8 volts still. My roomates been running it for a few days now in his car. Just a little 4cly stock turbo evo. But it has AEM (cranks for 3-5 secs) 280 cams (big) Been tuning it and working on it with the doors open, and its been fine. I forgot it was my old batttery, no one thoght it was going to be good still. haha. 2 big waldon fuel pumps, remote eletric waterpump, E85 made 395whp the other day. 2500#s with stock wheels, and glass. I'm fucked. hahah
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtS1d1_c0gI

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2735/...da75db98_o.jpg
look at the custom hold down "14.4 #'s" when I weight it 5 maybe 6 years ago. haha
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/...d09174f346.jpg

01sscam

Not anymore, DD'd it for about a year with this battery, now I only drive it on the weekends, starts up everytime still.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Alt charges fine... battery has no capacity, and when the car gets started, runs for 3 min then gets shut off (track only passes) there's not enough time to charge it back up again. I had a truck ALT on the car for a while (testing a theory someone had that it took less power to turn over, which proved to be wrong) and even with that it was the same problem.

The battery just isn't big enough to crank a big motor over.