dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

first off, i've read through a few threads on this and haven't got exactly the answer i'm looking for. my plan is, mount the batter in the spare tire area, run 0 gauge wire from the + battery post to the post under the hood next to the fuse box. then have 2 more wires from the post from the fuse box. one 2 gauge to the alternator and another 2 gauge to the starter. then run a wire from the - post on the battery to the rear seatbelt bolt to ground it. reason i'm wondering why this wouldn't work is because i see everybody using distribution blocks to split the positive wire from the battery to the fuse box, starter, and alternator, when i think i could just run them all from the post next to the fuse box. also, the factory negative terminal runs to the chassis and the motor. would i just need to run another wire from the motor to a good chassis ground? thanks!

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Why do you plan to run 0 gage? You will negate any effect of moving the battery by adding so much weight to the car, also the cost is more thant twice what 2 gage for no reason.

If you were to run 2 gage to the original positive battery cable and ground the battery to the chassis out back you would be just fine. You shouldn't need to run a new ground from the block to the chassis but it isn't a bad idea just to make sure all of your sensors on the motor are 100% accurate with there voltages.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

'one 2 gauge to the alternator and another 2 gauge to the starter."
Not if you intend passing tech. Alt output has to be shut off when the batt disconnect sw is opened.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

so your saying just extend the positive battery cable to the battery in the rear of the car, using the original cable and grounding the negative post to the chassis? besides my choice of wire size, would anything be wrong with wiring it the way i said in my post? the track localy doesn't have a strict tech, so i'm not worried about putting a kill switch on it

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

I mounted my battery in the tire well. It fits well. I would recomnnd running the larger wire. I ran a 1/0 to the front of the car, then a #2 to the starter, and a #4 to the alt. Yes it adds weight but the battery being mounted in the back places the weight where it needs to be. Some people do run a ground all the way from the batt. to the engine block. I didn't. I ground mine to the rollbar and added a #4 engine to frame ground. I have had problems with voltage drop and finally bought a 200 amp alt from Power Master. This car is still street driven and with the stock alt and the long cable runs it really taxes the charging system in the summer. You might try a small lite weight battery in the stock mounting location. Its a much easier project. I ran one for a little while but my current load is to much. I even mounted my batt. kill switch off of the radio ant. bracket. They are correct about the NHRA tech. I added a relay to kill the fuel pump. This kills the car with out resetting the PCM like when you kill the alt and batt.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Off topic but how has that powermaster alt. treated you so far??

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

It works great. The voltage never drops below 13 vdc. Thats with the head lights, engine oil cooler fan, engine fans,after market fuel pump, etc all running.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

the main thing i was wondering is if i could just run the power wire to the post by the fuse box, as well as the 2 wires to the alternator and starter off the same post. and if so, why do people use distribution blocks if that post can be used without any problems.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

so does anybody know if i can run them all through the fuse box post instead of through a distribution block?

Bitemark46

You won't pass tech but the easiest way would be to run a + wire from the dist block to the rear and connect it to the positive post. Ground the battery to the car in the rear and take the negative from the dist block and ground it to the car.

FWIW I weighed my 1g cable that went from the alt to the rear of the car and it weighed 5lbs. lol. But still I'd rather add 5lbs to the car as long as I can get 36lbs off the nose.

-Mark

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

that's exactly what i want to do, but can i substitute the distribution block for the fuse box post? i just think it'd look cleaner with + to the fuse box and then 2 more wires from there to the starter and alternator. i'll use a distribution block if that won't work, but if it will, i'll go that route.

and i won't be at the track a lot and our local track isn't that strict so i doubt i'll have a problem. if so i'll just put a switch right off the + post to kill everything. but i really doubt our track'll even say anything.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

Run the wire off the battery to the starter, then run a wire from the starter to the fuse block. Run the alt wire all the way to the battery.

If you don't care about tech then just run the alt wire to the fuse block or starter.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

why can't the fuse box be used to recieve the power from the battery and run the alternator and starter wires from? sorry if i'm asking the wrong question, it's just that that's what i can't seem to figure out why people don't do it when it looks like a perfect spot. and i'm not trying to pass tech.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

Because usually when running a long starter wire you want all the amps you can get to the starter so as to not have cranking issues.

Plus if you put the battery in the spare tire hole the cable is going to run right past the starter to get to the fuse block.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

ok, that's the answer i was looking for. i was actually going to run it from the spare tire well to the drivers side and through the hole i already have in the firewall for my existing amp power wire. and that's why the fuse box would have been the easiest post.

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

Are you already using a lightweight battery?
I just swapped my stock battery out for an Oddessy battery and shed about 40-45lb off the front without running extra wire. Starts the car fine so far
Here's what it looks like.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

well it's definately not a race car, and i'm running an amp off of it too so i'm not going the lightweight battery route. thanks for the picture though, that thing looks like it would really shed some weight.