Are mt et streets considered a slick?
08-04-2010, 10:34 AM
#1
Are mt et streets considered a slick? NED track rules say if Im running a Elapsed Time (ET) of 11.50 - 13.49: then I need a Drive shaft loop if equipped with slicks. But Im not sure what et streets are considered. These are not the et street radials but they do not say they are slicks either. All I know is they are a DOT approved race/street tire. Any idea?
08-04-2010, 11:10 AM
#2
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A M/T ET Street bias ply tire (not a radial) I believe is considered a slick since it is not marked as a radial. I'll have to double check my rulebook when I get home to verify 100% though....
Derek
Derek
08-04-2010, 11:19 AM
#3
Its a subject that is totally shady lol. I just called mickey thompson and they said its not considered a slick but not a radial either. They told me to call the track to see what they said. So I called and they were all dumbfounded lol. Had to get an answer from the track manager. He said if they are stamped with DOT then they will consider them a street tire and not a slick. So the safety loop isnt going to apply.
Well anyway, this is a good thread just incase someones wondering and cant get the answer from anyone. Although I supose a different track could consider them slicks. I would just hate to drive 2.5 hours to the track just so they can tell me I cant use et streets without safety loop
Well anyway, this is a good thread just incase someones wondering and cant get the answer from anyone. Although I supose a different track could consider them slicks. I would just hate to drive 2.5 hours to the track just so they can tell me I cant use et streets without safety loop
08-04-2010, 11:21 AM
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As mentioned, some tracks will "read the NHRA rule" different than others. A safety loop is not a bad thing to add, they aren't too expensive and most will bolt in on a 4th gen F-body.
Derek
Derek
08-04-2010, 11:28 AM
#5
NED track rules say if Im running a Elapsed Time (ET) of 11.50 - 13.49: then I need a Drive shaft loop if equipped with slicks. But Im not sure what et streets are considered. These are not the et street radials but they do not say they are slicks either. All I know is they are a DOT approved race/street tire. Any idea?
ET Street's were designed for those who want a DOT Street Legal Slick, nothing more.
I would Virtually guarrentee that you show up to the track your going to get bugged about not having a DS Loop. Just because the Manager says so does not mean the Tech Guy will not. You would have to argue your case. That tire is more then capable of grenading a Aluminum Stock DS.
Since I used to regularly run the LVD "Street Night" Race, since it is considered a DOT Street Legal, you should be able to run the class event. If nothing else Test and Tune.
08-04-2010, 12:09 PM
#6
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you also have to have studs that protrude through the wheel too but nobody checks that either... your taking a huge risk either way... broken u-joint ,axle,studs,blown rear,etc .....your runnin an auto, probably not a problem
08-04-2010, 12:20 PM
#7
Mickey thompson says its not a slick and NED considers it not a slick for street night as long as its stamped with DOT. So thats what im going with. If they give me a hard time...I will be ready to give it back for my case...I take it you didnt see my question over in the nhra post...
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08-04-2010, 03:55 PM
#10
I'd just get the loop in there, for the $ it's gonna cost you it's not worth the risk.
Safety first, period no excuses. Better have your helmet, and all that stuff too, cause they will ask. NED's actually pretty good with their tech, they look at pretty much everything, if you don't have it, you're not running that I'm sure of.
The studs, I'd put them on just for the sake of safety, rear if you still have a stock one in, maybe hold off, plus the auto car won't be so hard on that... but when you eventually upgrade the rear, make sure you put the 3 inch studs in it. Yes they'll stick out of the wheels, but deal with it, anyone that says anythign to you about it has no clue. Same with the fronts, if you go to a skinny rim, you'll have to run a shank type lug nut, requiring a longer stud.
I know one thing, if the tech guy sees the studs sticking out the end of the lug nut, they never give you a hard time about that.
Make sure the car won't start in gear if you have an aftermarket shifter, and all that too.
Safety first, period no excuses. Better have your helmet, and all that stuff too, cause they will ask. NED's actually pretty good with their tech, they look at pretty much everything, if you don't have it, you're not running that I'm sure of.
The studs, I'd put them on just for the sake of safety, rear if you still have a stock one in, maybe hold off, plus the auto car won't be so hard on that... but when you eventually upgrade the rear, make sure you put the 3 inch studs in it. Yes they'll stick out of the wheels, but deal with it, anyone that says anythign to you about it has no clue. Same with the fronts, if you go to a skinny rim, you'll have to run a shank type lug nut, requiring a longer stud.
I know one thing, if the tech guy sees the studs sticking out the end of the lug nut, they never give you a hard time about that.
Make sure the car won't start in gear if you have an aftermarket shifter, and all that too.
08-04-2010, 07:14 PM
#11
I'd just get the loop in there, for the $ it's gonna cost you it's not worth the risk.
Safety first, period no excuses. Better have your helmet, and all that stuff too, cause they will ask. NED's actually pretty good with their tech, they look at pretty much everything, if you don't have it, you're not running that I'm sure of.
The studs, I'd put them on just for the sake of safety, rear if you still have a stock one in, maybe hold off, plus the auto car won't be so hard on that... but when you eventually upgrade the rear, make sure you put the 3 inch studs in it. Yes they'll stick out of the wheels, but deal with it, anyone that says anythign to you about it has no clue. Same with the fronts, if you go to a skinny rim, you'll have to run a shank type lug nut, requiring a longer stud.
I know one thing, if the tech guy sees the studs sticking out the end of the lug nut, they never give you a hard time about that.
Make sure the car won't start in gear if you have an aftermarket shifter, and all that too.
Safety first, period no excuses. Better have your helmet, and all that stuff too, cause they will ask. NED's actually pretty good with their tech, they look at pretty much everything, if you don't have it, you're not running that I'm sure of.
The studs, I'd put them on just for the sake of safety, rear if you still have a stock one in, maybe hold off, plus the auto car won't be so hard on that... but when you eventually upgrade the rear, make sure you put the 3 inch studs in it. Yes they'll stick out of the wheels, but deal with it, anyone that says anythign to you about it has no clue. Same with the fronts, if you go to a skinny rim, you'll have to run a shank type lug nut, requiring a longer stud.
I know one thing, if the tech guy sees the studs sticking out the end of the lug nut, they never give you a hard time about that.
Make sure the car won't start in gear if you have an aftermarket shifter, and all that too.
Thanks for the advice. I have my helmet from the last time. I noticed alot of guys show up without a helmet,run their times,and they are not alowed to run again cause they were to fast and they have no helmet lol. Im goin up the same as last time except with some et streets this time.
08-04-2010, 07:22 PM
#12
I will tell you from experience, this is at tech guys discretion. It just depends. From a safety and practical standpoint, I consider them slicks because they pretty much achieve the same traction levels and therefor the same stresses on the drivetrain.
If the rear u-joint or pinion yoke fails, no big deal. It is usually just embarrassing. If the front u-joint or tranny yoke fails, it can get real exciting real fast without a front hoop.
I personally would not race a car at the strip with 60' times faster than 1.70 without a front hoop. But, I error on the side of safety and caution after 10 years of NHRA weekend racing. I have seen a few things.
If the rear u-joint or pinion yoke fails, no big deal. It is usually just embarrassing. If the front u-joint or tranny yoke fails, it can get real exciting real fast without a front hoop.
I personally would not race a car at the strip with 60' times faster than 1.70 without a front hoop. But, I error on the side of safety and caution after 10 years of NHRA weekend racing. I have seen a few things.
08-04-2010, 07:42 PM
#13
I have been to the track and teched in 2-3 times with e/t streets. No one has ever looked to see if I have a loop. I installed one so they can check if they want but none of the guys have.
I would install one, just to be easier if they look, and help with safety.
I would install one, just to be easier if they look, and help with safety.
08-04-2010, 08:44 PM
#16
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The rule reads/
Cars running 13.99 and faster with slicks require a driveshaft safety loop (except cars 11.49 and slower equipped with street tires).
As i mentioned above, a M/T ET STREET bias ply is really closer to a slick versus the ER STREET radial, although both are D.O.T. approved. Double check with the track, get a name and jot down the date and time you call so if you are confronted on the issue, you'll have a leg to stand on.
Derek
Cars running 13.99 and faster with slicks require a driveshaft safety loop (except cars 11.49 and slower equipped with street tires).
As i mentioned above, a M/T ET STREET bias ply is really closer to a slick versus the ER STREET radial, although both are D.O.T. approved. Double check with the track, get a name and jot down the date and time you call so if you are confronted on the issue, you'll have a leg to stand on.
Derek
08-04-2010, 08:48 PM
#17
The rule reads/
Cars running 13.99 and faster with slicks require a driveshaft safety loop (except cars 11.49 and slower equipped with street tires).
As i mentioned above, a M/T ET STREET bias ply is really closer to a slick versus the ER STREET radial, although both are D.O.T. approved. Double check with the track, get a name and jot down the date and time you call so if you are confronted on the issue, you'll have a leg to stand on.
Derek
Cars running 13.99 and faster with slicks require a driveshaft safety loop (except cars 11.49 and slower equipped with street tires).
As i mentioned above, a M/T ET STREET bias ply is really closer to a slick versus the ER STREET radial, although both are D.O.T. approved. Double check with the track, get a name and jot down the date and time you call so if you are confronted on the issue, you'll have a leg to stand on.
Derek
The answer came from the general manager.
08-04-2010, 11:55 PM
#18
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Like stated above get the loop on the car asap, had mine on when I was in the 13s. Just a piece of mind, my brother was running low 7s int eh 1/8 mile and didn't have one, one day he was playing around on the street making a short pass and the drive shaft broke in two pieces, the shaft hit the ground and catapulted the rear of the car in the air and the front part of the ds made a nice rounded area underneath the car. For like $40 bucks, don't chance it.
08-05-2010, 06:39 AM
#19
Here is what it can look like when the front of the drive-shaft breaks and pole vaults the car. It happens at the :10 mark in the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9DVlnX0jIc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9DVlnX0jIc
08-05-2010, 07:20 AM
#20
The tire has enough traction to break stuff and Tech guys have failed people because of their discrection. I would definitly get time, dates, name, and reason why you get failed and report it to NHRA (if they are a NHRA track).
