Which drag radial?
Ok so it worked for you, thats good. But it dont mean that they work for everybody. You have an 8 sec car with a lot of money and time into it. I race with a drag radial and there is a local 275 class that is here and a few of which are on this board that run bottom 5's in the 1/8th. But these are all race cars with every suspension piece on them with a lot of time put into the adjustments. I have watched SMITH on this board race a lot and seen him not be able to hook up for crap at times, and other times its as simple as adjusting the shocks real quick. You are taking what I'm saying wrong and if you would read my post then you would see that. I am not saying it cant be done and that slicks are better, I'm just stating that it is easier to hook on a slick. If your car is making a lot of power, especially a nitrous car thats spraying out of the hole then its a lot harder to hook up with a radial, you even said you spun with the spray. I hook on motor fine as well, just not with my nitrous.
My post was not about my racecar it was about my streetcar which has the same setup as probably 90% of the cars on this site .Nothing trick about it QA1's UMI Tq arm and front and rear control arms.I have SLP rear lowering springs 'Without' relocation brackets. i guess some people get it and others dont.
I also stated my car and others pictured had nothing special either...simple quality bolt-on F-body suspension parts.
I have seen slick car and big tire cars spin as often as I have seen radial cars spin. The key is get the suspension setup correctly.
The one thing I will say is once you spin a radial it seems harder to recover then a slick.
I have seen slick car and big tire cars spin as often as I have seen radial cars spin. The key is get the suspension setup correctly.
The one thing I will say is once you spin a radial it seems harder to recover then a slick.
And I guess other people just cant read. Look man I'm not going to go back and fourth like this. I never once said anything about how a slick will make you faster or anything like that. So I guess cause you are able to hook up on a radial with your street car then everybody can right? I dont know anything about your cars and I could be totally wrong, but with it being just a street car it probably dont make enough power to break them loose. Hell I can dead hook my car with 245 nitto 555r's on motor. But as soon as I throw some gas at it I can't hook for crap unless I turn my progressive down to like 10%. You even said the same thing, that you hooked up every time till you tried to launch with your nitrous. Everybody's situation is different man. Yes it is very easy to be able to hook up if your not making a lot of power, but the op is already having traction issues with a bias ply so I'm pretty sure he will have problems with a radial. I'm not saying that nobody can hook up, I'm just simply stating, that with a lot of power it is easier to hook up with a slick than a radial. A slick is just more consistent and more forgiving, but if you can hook up with a radial you will have a faster et and mph and be A LOT more stable.
:d
Also - to anyone that thinks you need to live at the track to figure out suspension, my previous camaro dead hooked low 1.4x 60's on a 26" drag radial spraying 150 out of the hole with all bolt on stuff. qa1's up front, comp engingeering out back, lowering springs, BMR t/a at -2, no front sway bar, STOCK rear sway bar and some bolt on relocation brackets (approx 3,450 race weight).
just using proven information from people that have done it (such as people on this board) is all you need to bolt on parts and dead hook. Obviously when you get into the really quick cars with a ton of power, there's a lot more to it. but the OP has an 11.0 car, so that's not exactly comparing apples to apples.
Last edited by Bryan @ Speed Inc.; Aug 25, 2010 at 10:06 AM.
I also stated my car and others pictured had nothing special either...simple quality bolt-on F-body suspension parts.
I have seen slick car and big tire cars spin as often as I have seen radial cars spin. The key is get the suspension setup correctly.
The one thing I will say is once you spin a radial it seems harder to recover then a slick.
I have seen slick car and big tire cars spin as often as I have seen radial cars spin. The key is get the suspension setup correctly.
The one thing I will say is once you spin a radial it seems harder to recover then a slick.
moar please!
:d
Also - to anyone that thinks you need to live at the track to figure out suspension, my previous camaro dead hooked low 1.4x 60's on a 26" drag radial spraying 150 out of the hole with all bolt on stuff. qa1's up front, comp engingeering out back, lowering springs, BMR t/a at -2, no front sway bar, STOCK rear sway bar and some bolt on relocation brackets (approx 3,450 race weight).
just using proven information from people that have done it (such as people on this board) is all you need to bolt on parts and dead hook. Obviously when you get into the really quick cars with a ton of power, there's a lot more to it. but the OP has an 11.0 car, so that's not exactly comparing apples to apples.
:d
Also - to anyone that thinks you need to live at the track to figure out suspension, my previous camaro dead hooked low 1.4x 60's on a 26" drag radial spraying 150 out of the hole with all bolt on stuff. qa1's up front, comp engingeering out back, lowering springs, BMR t/a at -2, no front sway bar, STOCK rear sway bar and some bolt on relocation brackets (approx 3,450 race weight).
just using proven information from people that have done it (such as people on this board) is all you need to bolt on parts and dead hook. Obviously when you get into the really quick cars with a ton of power, there's a lot more to it. but the OP has an 11.0 car, so that's not exactly comparing apples to apples.
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Verdad Gallardo You're right I dont have enough power to spin my tires.This pass is on a 100 shot on a 40 degree day in November. Call Eric at MWC he will help ypu get your car working you cant just bolt on the parts without some basic settings and expect them to work.
http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...=ChrisS987.flv
http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...=ChrisS987.flv
Well that was awesome man, you car is badass! But you just kind of proved one of my points. You have to admit that a 40 degree day in Nov is WAY better than a 100 degree day in the middle of summer with a track temp of 140 degrees, especially when there are no other cars on street tires to mess up the track prep and with their a/c on dripping onto the track. I'm talking about less than desirable conditions. But your car is sweet man. Oh by the way my rear end and suspension is all from MWC, Eric and Jason are awesome guys!
cold weather brings cold track temps as hot weather brings hot track temps..both not good.
a/c on racing should not be allowed and people should know better
look it's so easy a 4x4 F-body can go 1.3's on 275's
a/c on racing should not be allowed and people should know better
look it's so easy a 4x4 F-body can go 1.3's on 275's
Just saying....never freaking mind, I'll let you read through the three pages and get to speed with what I've been saying this whole time. 
7 Second Club
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
And I guess other people just cant read. Look man I'm not going to go back and fourth like this. I never once said anything about how a slick will make you faster or anything like that. So I guess cause you are able to hook up on a radial with your street car then everybody can right? I dont know anything about your cars and I could be totally wrong, but with it being just a street car it probably dont make enough power to break them loose. Hell I can dead hook my car with 245 nitto 555r's on motor. But as soon as I throw some gas at it I can't hook for crap unless I turn my progressive down to like 10%. You even said the same thing, that you hooked up every time till you tried to launch with your nitrous. Everybody's situation is different man. Yes it is very easy to be able to hook up if your not making a lot of power, but the op is already having traction issues with a bias ply so I'm pretty sure he will have problems with a radial. I'm not saying that nobody can hook up, I'm just simply stating, that with a lot of power it is easier to hook up with a slick than a radial. A slick is just more consistent and more forgiving, but if you can hook up with a radial you will have a faster et and mph and be A LOT more stable.
, but you are comparing a Nitto 555 drag radial to a more purpose-built drag radial like a M/T, and that's apples to oranges.Just an example, here's a test comparing the 555 to Nitto's new NT05 drag radial: www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_1003_nitto_nt05r_drag_radical_tires/index.html
BIG DIFFERENCE!
I have a stock suspension '70 Nova with Calvert Racing split mono-leaf springs, Caltracs and Rancho 4x4 style shocks @ 3600 lbs. Nothing exotic, just bolt-on stuff, with a 275/60/15 M/T drag radial that I drive on to the track and run at 18 psi.
Car goes consistent 1.54-1.60 60 foots on motor footbraking, best of 1.39 on a 200 hp shot of nitrous (progressive controller at 40% start .2 seconds after WOT, .6 second ramp until @ full pill) and run a 9.96 @ 133 mph best.
Just saying, it can be done. Don't be afraid of drag radials.
Derek
I havent even read the whole thread,im new to drag racing,and I dont make the power these guys are making. But I can say the I love the mt et street radials I bought for the track. They do not spin,and they hook like a bastard. But like I said,im not makin the power others are. And thats imo bout the drs.
Not to stir the pot or , but you are comparing a Nitto 555 drag radial to a more purpose-built drag radial like a M/T, and that's apples to oranges.
Just an example, here's a test comparing the 555 to Nitto's new NT05 drag radial: www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_1003_nitto_nt05r_drag_radical_tires/index.html
BIG DIFFERENCE!
I have a stock suspension '70 Nova with Calvert Racing split mono-leaf springs, Caltracs and Rancho 4x4 style shocks @ 3600 lbs. Nothing exotic, just bolt-on stuff, with a 275/60/15 M/T drag radial that I drive on to the track and run at 18 psi.
Car goes consistent 1.54-1.60 60 foots on motor footbraking, best of 1.39 on a 200 hp shot of nitrous (progressive controller at 40% start .2 seconds after WOT, .6 second ramp until @ full pill) and run a 9.96 @ 133 mph best.
Just saying, it can be done. Don't be afraid of drag radials.
Derek
, but you are comparing a Nitto 555 drag radial to a more purpose-built drag radial like a M/T, and that's apples to oranges.Just an example, here's a test comparing the 555 to Nitto's new NT05 drag radial: www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_1003_nitto_nt05r_drag_radical_tires/index.html
BIG DIFFERENCE!
I have a stock suspension '70 Nova with Calvert Racing split mono-leaf springs, Caltracs and Rancho 4x4 style shocks @ 3600 lbs. Nothing exotic, just bolt-on stuff, with a 275/60/15 M/T drag radial that I drive on to the track and run at 18 psi.
Car goes consistent 1.54-1.60 60 foots on motor footbraking, best of 1.39 on a 200 hp shot of nitrous (progressive controller at 40% start .2 seconds after WOT, .6 second ramp until @ full pill) and run a 9.96 @ 133 mph best.
Just saying, it can be done. Don't be afraid of drag radials.
Derek