Which drag radial?
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From: South Jersey
Which drag radial? The car is a 70% strip, 30% street car. Current suspension setup:
Ford 9" with 3.90s, full spool, Weld ProStars 15x8 rear, 15x3.5 front
Boxed SFCs
Boxed LCAs with relocation brackets
Wolfe rear swaybar (car leaves dead-nuts straight)
Comp 3-way adjustable shocks (set on 50/50)
Adjustable PHR
Performabuilt 4000 stall, Performabuilt Level 2 4L60E
Fully stock front suspension, medium weight reduction (AC, ABS, seats, etc.).
Here's the deal. Currently I am running 15x8 Weld ProStars with 26x10.5x15" ET Street (bias plys). My 60s range in the 1.52 - 1.62 range, but am having a hard time dead-hooking. Additionally, the car is VERY unstable on the top end and is in a word, scary. I've decided to step up to a 28" drag radial to help a bit in the stability and MPH department.
I'm going to switch out the 3.90s for 4.30s, but which size MT drag radial will suit me? Would I be better off with the 295s? Or will the 275s deliver just as well?
Ford 9" with 3.90s, full spool, Weld ProStars 15x8 rear, 15x3.5 front
Boxed SFCs
Boxed LCAs with relocation brackets
Wolfe rear swaybar (car leaves dead-nuts straight)
Comp 3-way adjustable shocks (set on 50/50)
Adjustable PHR
Performabuilt 4000 stall, Performabuilt Level 2 4L60E
Fully stock front suspension, medium weight reduction (AC, ABS, seats, etc.).
Here's the deal. Currently I am running 15x8 Weld ProStars with 26x10.5x15" ET Street (bias plys). My 60s range in the 1.52 - 1.62 range, but am having a hard time dead-hooking. Additionally, the car is VERY unstable on the top end and is in a word, scary. I've decided to step up to a 28" drag radial to help a bit in the stability and MPH department.
I'm going to switch out the 3.90s for 4.30s, but which size MT drag radial will suit me? Would I be better off with the 295s? Or will the 275s deliver just as well?
If you are't dead hooking now you won't with a radial! Stick with a bias and step up to the 28" tire. Many fit them with out any problems others need tiny modifications to fit the 28" tires.
As far as the top end being squirly, do you run tubes? What pressure are you at. Do you have radials or bias on the front. All of these things can help stablize the car on the top end.
You would be a fool to change to a radial.
As far as the top end being squirly, do you run tubes? What pressure are you at. Do you have radials or bias on the front. All of these things can help stablize the car on the top end.
You would be a fool to change to a radial.
Thread Starter
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From: South Jersey
I'm aware of the modifications needed for the 28" tires - I'm okay with that. 
I have radials in the front (165s) running at 44psi, 12.5psi in the ET streets (with tubes) in the rear. No front swaybar.
I have radials in the front (165s) running at 44psi, 12.5psi in the ET streets (with tubes) in the rear. No front swaybar.
You look like a fool by that kind of blanket statement.
Go with the 295 on a 10" wheel and continue to dial in the setup. You will be much happier with them on the street, too. It will just take some extra time to work out the kink, but it WILL be faster in the end.
Go with the 295 on a 10" wheel and continue to dial in the setup. You will be much happier with them on the street, too. It will just take some extra time to work out the kink, but it WILL be faster in the end.
Before moving to a different type of tire which also is a major change in compound to eliminate tire shake on the back half. You may need to consider moving to a wider rear rim?
Wider rear rims spread out the tire and gives a better contact patch and will make it more stable up top.
Considering the amount of anticpated Street driving you will be doing, that tire is not going to be the end all, be all when it comes to full hits at the track.
IF you can, go borrow a set from someone to get the idea and if your ok with running it full time, then go for it.
The DR is only faster if you can equal the 60 foot of the former tire. Now being in the 1.5's-1.6's is doable, but start trying to hit low 1.4's and see where it gets you, it does take work to make that tire work. You should anticipate a stall/gearing upgrade at the same time.
Wider rear rims spread out the tire and gives a better contact patch and will make it more stable up top.
Considering the amount of anticpated Street driving you will be doing, that tire is not going to be the end all, be all when it comes to full hits at the track.
IF you can, go borrow a set from someone to get the idea and if your ok with running it full time, then go for it.
The DR is only faster if you can equal the 60 foot of the former tire. Now being in the 1.5's-1.6's is doable, but start trying to hit low 1.4's and see where it gets you, it does take work to make that tire work. You should anticipate a stall/gearing upgrade at the same time.
Which is good, but like said, before changing the whole set up, I bet he would be marveled at the wide rim on a et street.
I am running a 275 on my 15 x 10 Centerlines and on the street they spin as good as any DR when you try to get on it. I have a **** ton more suspension mods they both of you combined and depending on the drivetrain, gearing, weight, and driving ability, you will find the limitation of that tire.
It's called a "On-Off Switch".
I am running a 275 on my 15 x 10 Centerlines and on the street they spin as good as any DR when you try to get on it. I have a **** ton more suspension mods they both of you combined and depending on the drivetrain, gearing, weight, and driving ability, you will find the limitation of that tire.
It's called a "On-Off Switch".
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Have you tried running more air pressure on the ET Streets you are currently running? 12.5 seems a little low IMHO. As mentioned, a radial will help top end stability and will be faster than the bias ply IF you can hook consistently.
Derek
Derek
I wouldnt get MT DRs again Go with Goodyear or Hoosier DRs. Everybody I know that has used them goes faster! Badhawk is pulling both tires 10" on 17" Hoosiers. Pretty sure Larry has them on his car now and went 9s first time out
Rick, thats called experience, first hand.
Take any "Fast" car that runs that tire, and what you don't hear about is the runs that did not work.
Like said IF you have the option see if a set can be borrowed, or try some more PSI.
Edit*
All I will say is this, PM JL and get his opinion. He will tell you his honst opinion and has ran nearly every tire/size you can think of and has found these aft formentioned limitations.
I can see that 4LJunkiE getting the boot once that does occur be it a 4L80e swap or TH400 with a T brake, you will see what it is to hit the tire hard and thats when you realize what worked before does not work now and that you will need to be re-buying stuff.
Take any "Fast" car that runs that tire, and what you don't hear about is the runs that did not work.
Like said IF you have the option see if a set can be borrowed, or try some more PSI.
Edit*
All I will say is this, PM JL and get his opinion. He will tell you his honst opinion and has ran nearly every tire/size you can think of and has found these aft formentioned limitations.
I can see that 4LJunkiE getting the boot once that does occur be it a 4L80e swap or TH400 with a T brake, you will see what it is to hit the tire hard and thats when you realize what worked before does not work now and that you will need to be re-buying stuff.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,467
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From: South Jersey
Before moving to a different type of tire which also is a major change in compound to eliminate tire shake on the back half. You may need to consider moving to a wider rear rim?
Wider rear rims spread out the tire and gives a better contact patch and will make it more stable up top.
Considering the amount of anticpated Street driving you will be doing, that tire is not going to be the end all, be all when it comes to full hits at the track.
IF you can, go borrow a set from someone to get the idea and if your ok with running it full time, then go for it.
The DR is only faster if you can equal the 60 foot of the former tire. Now being in the 1.5's-1.6's is doable, but start trying to hit low 1.4's and see where it gets you, it does take work to make that tire work. You should anticipate a stall/gearing upgrade at the same time.
Wider rear rims spread out the tire and gives a better contact patch and will make it more stable up top.
Considering the amount of anticpated Street driving you will be doing, that tire is not going to be the end all, be all when it comes to full hits at the track.
IF you can, go borrow a set from someone to get the idea and if your ok with running it full time, then go for it.
The DR is only faster if you can equal the 60 foot of the former tire. Now being in the 1.5's-1.6's is doable, but start trying to hit low 1.4's and see where it gets you, it does take work to make that tire work. You should anticipate a stall/gearing upgrade at the same time.
Unfortunately I do not have the option to borrow someone else's set as my rear is narrowed 2" per side.
I suppose my big question is, would a wider drag radial hook as well as a thinner ET street bias ply, all things being equal?
Rick, thats called experience, first hand.
Take any "Fast" car that runs that tire, and what you don't hear about is the runs that did not work.
Like said IF you have the option see if a set can be borrowed, or try some more PSI.
Edit*
All I will say is this, PM JL and get his opinion. He will tell you his honst opinion and has ran nearly every tire/size you can think of and has found these aft formentioned limitations.
I can see that 4LJunkiE getting the boot once that does occur be it a 4L80e swap or TH400 with a T brake, you will see what it is to hit the tire hard and thats when you realize what worked before does not work now and that you will need to be re-buying stuff.
Take any "Fast" car that runs that tire, and what you don't hear about is the runs that did not work.
Like said IF you have the option see if a set can be borrowed, or try some more PSI.
Edit*
All I will say is this, PM JL and get his opinion. He will tell you his honst opinion and has ran nearly every tire/size you can think of and has found these aft formentioned limitations.
I can see that 4LJunkiE getting the boot once that does occur be it a 4L80e swap or TH400 with a T brake, you will see what it is to hit the tire hard and thats when you realize what worked before does not work now and that you will need to be re-buying stuff.
Joe, here's my old thread for your reference...good info in here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ransbrake.html
1-2 mph and 3-4 tenths isn't much faster in my opinion and he will spend a good deal of time and money get it to work with the radials. So therfore with logical thinking the radial is a huge step backwards. Why not make one easy step into a bigger bias and be done!
Last edited by custm2500; Aug 23, 2010 at 05:35 PM.
You aint lyin bud. I know that during perfect conditions with a perfect launch a radial will be a little faster, but I have spent a lot of money and time and headache trying to get my car to hook with a 275/60/15. Of course on motor it hooks up, but not on the gas even with my progressive down to 50%. I am seriously thinking of ditching the radials and going to a slick.
But to the OP, I have tried Nitto's and M/T drag radials and I believe that the M/T's are the best out there. People go fast with other tires, but M/T's have been around a long time and have been proven and I know more people that successfully race on them then other drag radials. Just my opinion of course.
You aint lyin bud. I know that during perfect conditions with a perfect launch a radial will be a little faster, but I have spent a lot of money and time and headache trying to get my car to hook with a 275/60/15. Of course on motor it hooks up, but not on the gas even with my progressive down to 50%. I am seriously thinking of ditching the radials and going to a slick.
Ramair,
Looking at the video it looks like the rear shocks are too soft. I would invest in some double adjustable shocks on the rear. Need to stiffen up both compression and rebound. The front end is coming up and then dropping back down too fast. It is probably unloading the tires when the front end comes down. Try to get some video from behind and see what is going on with the suspension.
FYI, I run 18 (cold) psi on my MT radials.
Just my .02.
DJ
Looking at the video it looks like the rear shocks are too soft. I would invest in some double adjustable shocks on the rear. Need to stiffen up both compression and rebound. The front end is coming up and then dropping back down too fast. It is probably unloading the tires when the front end comes down. Try to get some video from behind and see what is going on with the suspension.
FYI, I run 18 (cold) psi on my MT radials.
Just my .02.
DJ
There are still people out there that think drag radials don't work, but there are cars going 7's running them. I can tell you if your suspension is setup correctly they can and will work at least for the auto cars, manual cars take a lot more time playing with suspension to get them to work. Like AChotrod said I have cut 1.46 on 17's and think with more converter it will go low 1.4's if not a high 1.3 on motor.
Pic is Hoosier 315/35/17 drag radial.
Pic is Hoosier 315/35/17 drag radial.