rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

My goal for next year is to hit 10's n/a. I just went 10.70 1.543 60' on the jug, but I want to do it on motor. My best so far is 11.2@122 1.576 60' so I am close If the air was better might have got it then. Here is a rundown of what the car has currently

402 with all the goodies probably around 530 or so rwhp (going off weight and trap, no dyno yet with new h/c setup)
m6 spec stage 3+
12 bolt 4.11 gear
adj phr
adj lca's
relo brackets, set in lowest hole
sfc's
bmr adj t/a
crossmember t/a relo
kyb 8 ways all around
stock srpings
I take the front sway off for track
I put a umi drag bar on for the track
skinnies and 27" hoosier qtps for the track
car weighs right around 3800lb with me

OK, I do go to a lot of trouble changing things when I go to the track. I swap all the tires, remove front sway, install rear anti-roll bar. put 5 point in ect..I want to have the car handle on the street. I mean it is a f-body for gods sake. Everything I have done to the car is with my goals in mind. I want a car with all the comforts, handles like it should on the street, and rips at the track. I still have my a/c ect. and am not willing to lose it.

I am thinking of doing a k-member but not sure if it is worth the $ for the weight I would loose. What I am really wondering is if I got a set of rear shocks, like a afco, if it would sacrafice street feel and handling? I might event swap them out just for the track if need be. Fronts are not an option for doing that.

What are your thoughts on my next move?? Depending on feedback, and what some sponsors say I think my best $ would be rear shocks and a two step. I really want consistant high 10's on motor and would like to see a bit more trap speed.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

I should add that I could also learn to drive better. I dont powershift, tried that a few times and the tranny would get stuck between gears. It seems to depend on the day but I know that when you watch the video that you can see the nose drop every time I shift. Some days I seem to do better than others. I do have the tick master and it did help quite a bit.

I also will be swapping out to a 02 pcm this winter, I think that will help nail down the upper end fueling some. I have to fuge the #s on the maf table and it is usually a little fat up top.

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

weight reduction time...

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

get double adjustable shocks for the front. help with weight transfer in the 60' and you wont have to transfer all that weight back to the back everytime you shift the car. these are a must for a manual car.

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

This...it sounds like there is still a lot of weight to pull from the car.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

put in a stall'd auto

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

like the others have said, weight reduction and drive it better. what are you 60fts and such

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

Weight reduction and some shocks. The Afcos work great on the street. You can adjust them for the track and then back for handling. Plus they allow you to adjust the ride height in the front.

Bill00Formula

iTrader: (4)

What's your track elevation? I have a 00 formula, no real weight reduction (spare, jack & sway bar removed) 427, 6 speed (spec 3+), 3.73s, and originally made 533 rwhp (maybe makes a little more now). I run stock rims and drag radials in back. I don't speed shift and usually bog on the launch but in the hottest weather trap in the mid 126s. I'm fully off the gas for an instant but shift hard. The launch is my biggest problem. Last time out in the mid 70s and fairly high humidity 70-80% (moisture on the cars) I hit 130. Before I broke my rear I had 4.11s and 28" tires in the back and the best I did was 10.70 at 132.7 w/ a 1.66 60' but the temps were in the 50s.

So if your car is making 530ish at the wheels and is running well, you should be able to run 10s w/o nitros. I would think there is some sort of issue with your car. I estimate my race weight to be around 3650 but I weight 265. Why is your race weight 3800 lbs?

But like someone said, an automatic will guarantee 10s. At some point I may go that route.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

I have thought auto, but I like bangin gears too much. I will do some minor weight reduction. I wont loose my a/c and stuff like that. I need to get to a reliable scale with my slicks and skinnies on. The one here in town varies quite a bit. But the only things out of the car are the spare/jack/egr/evap. I have added a 12 bolt, plus sfcs ws6 seats and a cage. When I scaled it before the cage it was 3560 without me. I go 215. That would put me with the cage at or above 3800. As far as track elevation, one track I go to is like 900ft and the other is 600. So altitude isnt an issue. I only got good air once this year everyother time it has been stupid humid and 90* out. I think I am going to do at least rear shocks. I see now that the carpet has coutouts you can cut and fold back to access the rear upper shock mounts. Hell I can get some cheap rear drag shocks and swap them out when I go to race if I dont like how they handle on the street.

The Guy in MY 99TA

have you ever invested in a good shifter for the factory 6 speed? chances are though if you've missed a gear you've probably fubared a synchro now.... my best info would be to learn to shift that thing

the 60's look pretty decent...

so the car has not been tuned w/ a wideband @ all? I'de definately recommend sending her to a reputable tuner.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

I tune it myself, havent had it to the dyno to really nail the timing, but everything else is spot on. I do a fair amount of tuning. I have a pro 5.0 shifter with a short stick. Beleive me I have just about everything you could put in the car done. I reubilt the tranny just about every year as well.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I can tell you with your pwr level that a stalled auto would put you to about 10.6 or so... I was at about 3620, and with 470 rw thru the stalled auto (probably about 530 at the tires thru a stick I would figure) the car would go 10.5 like clockwork once we got it set right.

If you're not willing to take that step, weight reduction. Burkhart bumper supports, lose the factory overflow and put a little one in, k member, a arms too, and shocks to get the weight transferring better would be the next thing to do.

Maybe a set of LW racing seats if you can tolerate that. I dont' think you'd want Kirkey's in the car all the time, but with the work you do to the car when you go to the track, putting one in for track days would drop a good bit of weight in drag trim.

Ozite carpet too, that will pull 20 lbs out, and while the carpet's out, you can scrape/wire wheel the excess or all the seam sealer out. Makes a big mess, but there's probably a good 15 lbs if that crap in the car. The rubber mat on the firewall isn't light either. Just paint the floor where you wire the paint off so it doesn't rust afterwards, if you take that route.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

I guess at this point it almost has become a mission to go as fast as possible without much weight reduction. Want to see if I can make a pig fly. I am willing to do k-member and bumper support if it is really worth the $$ for the weight loss.

I am really wondering how just a set of shocks and a two step would do for me. I can easily swap the rear shocks to race. How huge are front coilovers. The kybs when you set them loose are just that, loose as hell. They seem to work in that respect. If a afco would be able to handle like a stocker I would just put them in and leave them in. I cant seem to get any feedback on that though. If I could get into the low, low 1.5 or hgih 1.4 60' I would have my goal on motor. I am close, just looking for that last little bit.

02_ramair_ta

iTrader: (35)

thats where I would start...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

A full set of double adjustable afco'w can be set to ride like stock. A qa1 on 4 is pretty close to stock, 3 might be a touch softer then stock, depends on the car and weight imo.

I'd get the k member, the burkhart bumper supports, lower and upper a arms (upper don't save any weight, but allow for bind free suspension movement) and the shocks, and see what that gets you.

Ozite carpet would be an easy 20 lbs and removing the seam sealer would pull another 10 or so out of the car. I'd think that's a good start, and won't hurt your creature comforts for the most part. Might make the car a little louder, but nothing that's a disaster.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

If the afcos can handle like stock then that is what I will do. K-member, bumber delete, a-arms, shocks. Does anybody know the part #s for the afco shocks and coilovers that I need??

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Call Madman, he will get you set up.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

the only reason I want the part#s is just to check. I have a account with motorstate and I imagine I can get them way cheaper. Not that I dont want to get them from a sponsor, but if I can save a buck I am all for it. Most stuff is a huge difference. I will probably call Madman or Eric at MWC anyway.

madwoman

The difference in ordering from us or Motorstate is you get our valving which they dont have. Also you get a tune up for the shocks and our experience with these shocks and suspensions.