ls1 or ls2
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From: Home town Clive,IA current town FORT BENNING GEORGIA
ls1 or ls2 hey guys can anyone give me any input, it seems alot of people are telling me i should run an ls2 but i have been doing alot of looking into it and i am seeing ls1 346/7 running the same times if not a little faster. the car i currently have sees alot of action alot of street passes,200shot,drag strip. and i just want to know is an ls2 really that much better for what im doing or will a 347 be just fine for me. my goals are to run 11.4's or 11.5s on motor and low 10's with a 200 shot
A ls1 or ls2 don't mean one is faster just because. It's all in the setup. The ls2 makes more power from the factory and has more cubic inches. I would get the ls2 if you can because cubic in's makes more tq. In general,if you had an ls1 and put all that stuff on a ls2 it would make more power and tq. I had a stocl ci ls1 running 11.1 n/a. It was all in the heads,intake and cam. I have a ls2 block now and more can be done with the ls2. With the right set up the ls1 will run what you are looking for.
like he said, you can build an ls1 to run just as fast as an ls2. just a little easier to get an ls2 there and you've got a little more to work with. if your goal above is all you looking to do, i'd just build the ls1 you already have. no sense in doing a motor swap just to hit low 11's, high 10's on spray.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Home town Clive,IA current town FORT BENNING GEORGIA
ill probably just stick with my 346 and turn it into a 347, how much abuse do you think it'll take maybe a 100 almost a few street runs on the weekend and a 200 shot a few passes at the track, im trying just make a strong car.
with a good tune and set-up you'll have no problem with forged 347 running a 200 shot. a lot of people run 150 shots on completely stock bottom end ls1's and have great success. as long as it's built right, you'll have a very stout motor.
i got a forged ls1 for sale ready for a 200 button
http://truestreetcars.com/forums/par...ck-2100-a.html
http://truestreetcars.com/forums/par...ck-2100-a.html
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One of the MAIN reasons to run LS2 based Motors is simply it opens up the choice of cyl head selection. Before LS2's became avalible, if you wanted a LS1 based block to go beyond 383 CID you needed to drill the sleeves out and re sleeve and even then the block had atypical factory stock block short comings (which prompted GMPP and other companies to make aftermarket blocks).
Technology like most things keeps on moving on and its gotten to the point where unless you want something like a 383, and your ok with having a limited selection of head choices, you can go up to a LS2 based block and have it punched and stroked to a multitude of combonations. Most popular are 402/408.
My only reason I have not gotten heads for this 2002 346 (see LS1) is that cyl heads avalible will be eclipsed by some of the stuff offered for 4.00"+ bore heads. Then to try to sell them later is a PITA.
The actual cost of forging a motor boils down to machining work. The cost is virtually the same for the exact same part, just different sizes and dimentions. I would rather spend coin on something more then 383 CID.
This is in my own opinion of course.
As for the question for the OP, your goals are lofty but obtainable. What you should have is a Automatic (TH400 me thinks), a lower then average race weight that also includes ALL required safety features that NHRA says that you need.
The point is that if you going to forge a motor, consider the foundation and what the intended use. I bet if your motor is fine, and sellable (sell as a LONG BLOCK), the cost diff will be neglible=, even with the LS2 conversion kit.
Technology like most things keeps on moving on and its gotten to the point where unless you want something like a 383, and your ok with having a limited selection of head choices, you can go up to a LS2 based block and have it punched and stroked to a multitude of combonations. Most popular are 402/408.
My only reason I have not gotten heads for this 2002 346 (see LS1) is that cyl heads avalible will be eclipsed by some of the stuff offered for 4.00"+ bore heads. Then to try to sell them later is a PITA.
The actual cost of forging a motor boils down to machining work. The cost is virtually the same for the exact same part, just different sizes and dimentions. I would rather spend coin on something more then 383 CID.
This is in my own opinion of course.
As for the question for the OP, your goals are lofty but obtainable. What you should have is a Automatic (TH400 me thinks), a lower then average race weight that also includes ALL required safety features that NHRA says that you need.
The point is that if you going to forge a motor, consider the foundation and what the intended use. I bet if your motor is fine, and sellable (sell as a LONG BLOCK), the cost diff will be neglible=, even with the LS2 conversion kit.
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