best 60ft with a 4l60E
I know you will surely be happy to go with a 60E or 80E over a 3 speed for a street car. I have been there before and will never look back as it's so enjoyable to drive to and from the track at 60+ mph.
JL for your more race oriented car you really don't need a 60E and the reason why someone is not going to give you a trans as you have asked is there is no need to do so. They have their info that they work already from many of their current customers / vendors.
JL for your more race oriented car you really don't need a 60E and the reason why someone is not going to give you a trans as you have asked is there is no need to do so. They have their info that they work already from many of their current customers / vendors.
Kind of like engine guys, anytime they blow it up they "are having a transmission problem"
Lord knows how many of the fast cars on here blow up on a regular basis, and you just don't hear about it.
it might be an RPM thing , but unsure myself as I'm no trans expert
I do know there are 60's though going 7500 or so rpm , heavy and mid-low 9's which I feel shows it's very durable if built correctly.
The OP looks to have a street car to me and no 3 speed belongs and though I know a 60 can last an 80 is going to be stronger, but far more expensive as well.
I do know there are 60's though going 7500 or so rpm , heavy and mid-low 9's which I feel shows it's very durable if built correctly.
The OP looks to have a street car to me and no 3 speed belongs and though I know a 60 can last an 80 is going to be stronger, but far more expensive as well.
I wasn't even going to touch on the ratio issues with it. That works for car's like chirs1313's car and the like that aren't making a ton of power, but as soon as you start making any big steam that isn't gonna fly either, and there's absolutely no options out there to do anything about it.
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To the original poster I think you will be happy with a well built FLT trans, plus the guys are great over there and take care of you even if a hiccup arrises...plus their warranty...pm me to hear about why I went with FLT vs another sponsor
If it is strickly a trailored track car then by all means get a th350 or 400...but if you drive it on the street I really think you are going to miss the OD...I mean I still even have the lockup clutches in my converter cause I don't want to give up the extra few 100rpm cruising 170 miles round trip to the track...I only run a hair over 1/4 tank of gas driving 85 miles 1 way on the highway... 70 mph at 2400rpm, 4.10 gears with 28" tall mt drag radials...
here a video of my street machine doing work on the 60ft department with factory stock bottom end 346... 1.291 60ft, thanks for the slick rubber on the line Rob
, what you think it would 60ft on a 150 shot 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjJ6neiWQAI
If it is strickly a trailored track car then by all means get a th350 or 400...but if you drive it on the street I really think you are going to miss the OD...I mean I still even have the lockup clutches in my converter cause I don't want to give up the extra few 100rpm cruising 170 miles round trip to the track...I only run a hair over 1/4 tank of gas driving 85 miles 1 way on the highway... 70 mph at 2400rpm, 4.10 gears with 28" tall mt drag radials...
here a video of my street machine doing work on the 60ft department with factory stock bottom end 346... 1.291 60ft, thanks for the slick rubber on the line Rob
, what you think it would 60ft on a 150 shot http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjJ6neiWQAI
I wasn't even going to touch on the ratio issues with it. That works for car's like chirs1313's car and the like that aren't making a ton of power, but as soon as you start making any big steam that isn't gonna fly either, and there's absolutely no options out there to do anything about it.
One of our customers just went 1.27 60ft in his C5 Corvette.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...e-1-274-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...e-1-274-a.html
One of our customers just went 1.27 60ft in his C5 Corvette.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...e-1-274-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...e-1-274-a.html
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Woodlawn IL
This biggest problem I have had with the 3.06 gear (converter and big rear gear) is on marginal tracks it will spin at the hit and if it does and you bracket race like i do its game over load it up and go home as the name of the game is consistancy. I usually back mine down a little and run a little slower to compensate for the track not being there but its more fun to run it on kill. I just cant do very often and go rounds too.
4L60e's can be built to last. The keys are a good builder, good trans tuner, keep them cool, and maintain them. Just like you monitor and maintain your engine oil the same needs to be done with a transmission, many people forget about that. In my experience I've seen that highway racing and downshifting kills these trannies faster than anything. They seem to live a lot longer going 1-2-3 than 4-3-2.
OP if you want an OD trans with the torque you're making on the bottle I'd at least look at the 4L80 since you're starting from scratch anyways. The 80 weighs more and soaks up more power but either a 60 or 80 can work. The best thing is to probably talk to the trans builder or shop you'll be dealing with on this and get their opinions and pros and cons on each. If they're more comfortable with one trans over the other and willing to stand behind one more than the other that may be the deciding factor. Since you're starting from scratch there's no reason not to consider everything.
JL your posts about race setups and turning 8500rpm are irrelevant here. The OP said he drives the car a lot and I'm willing to bet he's not turning anywhere near 8500 rpm. Your proclomation that the 60's are junk because no trans builder will send you a free one to try and evaluate in your race setup is ridiculous and absurd. First off, who are you that any trans builder will care about your review enough to send you a free trans to flog? Secondly I'd be more worried about the trans builder that suggests a 4l60e for an 8500 rpm race setup than another trans. There are way better options for that setup for a variety of reasons. I don't see too many 8500 rpm street cars around that are putting enough street miles on the vehicle to reap the benefits of a 4l60e.
OP if you want an OD trans with the torque you're making on the bottle I'd at least look at the 4L80 since you're starting from scratch anyways. The 80 weighs more and soaks up more power but either a 60 or 80 can work. The best thing is to probably talk to the trans builder or shop you'll be dealing with on this and get their opinions and pros and cons on each. If they're more comfortable with one trans over the other and willing to stand behind one more than the other that may be the deciding factor. Since you're starting from scratch there's no reason not to consider everything.
JL your posts about race setups and turning 8500rpm are irrelevant here. The OP said he drives the car a lot and I'm willing to bet he's not turning anywhere near 8500 rpm. Your proclomation that the 60's are junk because no trans builder will send you a free one to try and evaluate in your race setup is ridiculous and absurd. First off, who are you that any trans builder will care about your review enough to send you a free trans to flog? Secondly I'd be more worried about the trans builder that suggests a 4l60e for an 8500 rpm race setup than another trans. There are way better options for that setup for a variety of reasons. I don't see too many 8500 rpm street cars around that are putting enough street miles on the vehicle to reap the benefits of a 4l60e.
To the original poster I think you will be happy with a well built FLT trans, plus the guys are great over there and take care of you even if a hiccup arrises...plus their warranty...pm me to hear about why I went with FLT vs another sponsor
If it is strickly a trailored track car then by all means get a th350 or 400...but if you drive it on the street I really think you are going to miss the OD...I mean I still even have the lockup clutches in my converter cause I don't want to give up the extra few 100rpm cruising 170 miles round trip to the track...I only run a hair over 1/4 tank of gas driving 85 miles 1 way on the highway... 70 mph at 2400rpm, 4.10 gears with 28" tall mt drag radials...
here a video of my street machine doing work on the 60ft department with factory stock bottom end 346... 1.291 60ft, thanks for the slick rubber on the line Rob, what you think it would 60ft on a 150 shot
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjJ6neiWQAI
If it is strickly a trailored track car then by all means get a th350 or 400...but if you drive it on the street I really think you are going to miss the OD...I mean I still even have the lockup clutches in my converter cause I don't want to give up the extra few 100rpm cruising 170 miles round trip to the track...I only run a hair over 1/4 tank of gas driving 85 miles 1 way on the highway... 70 mph at 2400rpm, 4.10 gears with 28" tall mt drag radials...
here a video of my street machine doing work on the 60ft department with factory stock bottom end 346... 1.291 60ft, thanks for the slick rubber on the line Rob
, what you think it would 60ft on a 150 shot http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjJ6neiWQAI
My Rubber is well worth them Nice 60 times
i have a Pro Race rebuilt 4l60e from CPT out of delaware and love it. i flush the trans fluid every season and change the filter ever other season. also run a cooler. I've had it for 4 seasons running strong
best 60ft 1.67
best 60ft 1.67