motor plate info, post pics of yours
12-02-2010, 08:07 AM
#3
We have motor plates for most f-body applications (BBC, SBC, LS1, LT1) and also LS1 universal plates. Here is a link to our motor plates in our online catalog:
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=16
On this linked page is a picture of our motor plates installed. Give me a call if you're interested in purchasing or if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Steve
Madman & Co. Racing Inc.
225-673-3533
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=16
On this linked page is a picture of our motor plates installed. Give me a call if you're interested in purchasing or if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Steve
Madman & Co. Racing Inc.
225-673-3533
12-02-2010, 09:45 AM
#6
Mine is AEIcnc.com, put the motor centered between the frame rail and just a "touch". I am also running their mid plate with their custom travel limiter. Also using their water plates for the motor plate to run a remote mount water pump.
Pro is alot more room in the engine bay and also strengthened up the front of the chassis with the mounting point style of the motor plate. Also allowed me to run a 1piece motor plate with a log style turbo setup.
Wouldnt change a thing!
Trending Topics
12-02-2010, 07:59 PM
#8
tim99ws6 that looks really cool how it ties in the shock towers, I was looking at that one yesterday but it wasn't any installed pics. Have you ever had any other style, or worked on the car with more of a lower mounted plate to compair pro/con of having the plate that high up in the engine bay?
I would still have a fast style intake so would cut that to the bottem of that hole at least. And don't think it would stay 1 piece really. I know its kinda wierd for what I'm wanting but right not have a BMR K with stock style engine stands, and stock control arms. I'm thinking of going overkill now and getting a more race style K member like a race craft with no mounts, and holes for LCA and just get good rod end control arms\ and not mess with stock replacment bolt in style parts. Get good lightweight parts now with room to grow into as the car gets faster, I can run still now cam only setup. running truck manifolds down the road will be the setup for going turbo.
I would still have a fast style intake so would cut that to the bottem of that hole at least. And don't think it would stay 1 piece really. I know its kinda wierd for what I'm wanting but right not have a BMR K with stock style engine stands, and stock control arms. I'm thinking of going overkill now and getting a more race style K member like a race craft with no mounts, and holes for LCA and just get good rod end control arms\ and not mess with stock replacment bolt in style parts. Get good lightweight parts now with room to grow into as the car gets faster, I can run still now cam only setup. running truck manifolds down the road will be the setup for going turbo.
12-03-2010, 07:52 AM
#9
tim99ws6 that looks really cool how it ties in the shock towers, I was looking at that one yesterday but it wasn't any installed pics. Have you ever had any other style, or worked on the car with more of a lower mounted plate to compair pro/con of having the plate that high up in the engine bay?
I would still have a fast style intake so would cut that to the bottem of that hole at least. And don't think it would stay 1 piece really. I know its kinda wierd for what I'm wanting but right not have a BMR K with stock style engine stands, and stock control arms. I'm thinking of going overkill now and getting a more race style K member like a race craft with no mounts, and holes for LCA and just get good rod end control arms\ and not mess with stock replacment bolt in style parts. Get good lightweight parts now with room to grow into as the car gets faster, I can run still now cam only setup. running truck manifolds down the road will be the setup for going turbo.
I would still have a fast style intake so would cut that to the bottem of that hole at least. And don't think it would stay 1 piece really. I know its kinda wierd for what I'm wanting but right not have a BMR K with stock style engine stands, and stock control arms. I'm thinking of going overkill now and getting a more race style K member like a race craft with no mounts, and holes for LCA and just get good rod end control arms\ and not mess with stock replacment bolt in style parts. Get good lightweight parts now with room to grow into as the car gets faster, I can run still now cam only setup. running truck manifolds down the road will be the setup for going turbo.
I can also get you into the Racecraft "Race" Style k-member kit. It comes with 1" narrowed upper and lower a-arms, manual rack, and 2" drop spindles. That, along with our motor-plate/mid-plate set up, would considerably lighten up the front of your car.
12-03-2010, 03:02 PM
#10
thanks steve. Ya, I'm looking into this still, know I dont need a 2inch drop. keep you posted.
I know the motor stock is offset to the passenger side, do you guys do this with a motorplate still. And why?, stock so the DS is offset for the pinion gear, and room for the TA? What about raising or lowering it?
I know the motor stock is offset to the passenger side, do you guys do this with a motorplate still. And why?, stock so the DS is offset for the pinion gear, and room for the TA? What about raising or lowering it?
12-06-2010, 08:13 AM
#11
thanks steve. Ya, I'm looking into this still, know I dont need a 2inch drop. keep you posted.
I know the motor stock is offset to the passenger side, do you guys do this with a motorplate still. And why?, stock so the DS is offset for the pinion gear, and room for the TA? What about raising or lowering it?
I know the motor stock is offset to the passenger side, do you guys do this with a motorplate still. And why?, stock so the DS is offset for the pinion gear, and room for the TA? What about raising or lowering it?
12-07-2010, 07:45 AM
#13
Here's a better pic of our motor plates installed:
Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with, or any questions you need answered.
Thanks!
Steve
12-07-2010, 11:56 PM
#17
It looks like you need a BIG cutout. In the 1st pic of tims setup, the driver side truck manifold. The top of the cut looks to be about at the top of the frame, thats only what? maybe 1 1/2 inch of plate left up top? Not sure on the bottem, I'd what it to have room the get the cross over off the studs on the manifold, don't think a 1/8 bigger cutout down there would clear that. I don't know for sure but don't what to have to cut that plate so it just has a 1/4 x 1 1/2 top strap, and the same of the bottom.
passanger side for the DP I'm not sure about either, don't see many pics of that.
Last edited by studderin; 12-08-2010 at 12:56 AM.
12-08-2010, 01:09 AM
#19
The motor plate I'm running is specifically made to clear truck manifold setups. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions!
On a unrelated note, I LOVE how Burkhart mounts the midplate with the bar across the firewall area. We fabbed up that bar you see mounted up to the stock motor mount location, but AEI makes them now as well.
On a unrelated note, I LOVE how Burkhart mounts the midplate with the bar across the firewall area. We fabbed up that bar you see mounted up to the stock motor mount location, but AEI makes them now as well.
12-08-2010, 03:40 PM
#20
Like this
is this the madman of burkhart mid plate. I saw in in someones build and couldn't find whos it was?
thats better for headers, and pulling the trans right anything else? I don't know about working on the car with these setups, thats what I'm looking for info on.
You just remove thouse upper 2 bolts behind the intake, and lower the motor/trans with the mid plate (bolted between them) right?
whats even the point of the midplate?
can you just run a motor plate, and a trans mount on lower HP setups?
I've read some older styles were guys have studs on the block for the midplate, that would be a pain in the *** to work on. Changing a clutch with the motor fixed and not moving at all. F that, thats what I dont what to do, make the car harder to work on.
I know you guys making these are fab shops and not website guys, and are happy to talk about your stuff on the phone about your stuff. Not to be a dick but I want to see some pics of them on the car. So I can see what I like and don't like. But you don't have any good pics on your site.
I've read some older styles were guys have studs on the block for the midplate, that would be a pain in the *** to work on. Changing a clutch with the motor fixed and not moving at all. F that, thats what I dont what to do, make the car harder to work on.
is this the madman of burkhart mid plate. I saw in in someones build and couldn't find whos it was?
thats better for headers, and pulling the trans right anything else? I don't know about working on the car with these setups, thats what I'm looking for info on.
You just remove thouse upper 2 bolts behind the intake, and lower the motor/trans with the mid plate (bolted between them) right?
whats even the point of the midplate?
can you just run a motor plate, and a trans mount on lower HP setups?
I've read some older styles were guys have studs on the block for the midplate, that would be a pain in the *** to work on. Changing a clutch with the motor fixed and not moving at all. F that, thats what I dont what to do, make the car harder to work on.
I know you guys making these are fab shops and not website guys, and are happy to talk about your stuff on the phone about your stuff. Not to be a dick but I want to see some pics of them on the car. So I can see what I like and don't like. But you don't have any good pics on your site.
I've read some older styles were guys have studs on the block for the midplate, that would be a pain in the *** to work on. Changing a clutch with the motor fixed and not moving at all. F that, thats what I dont what to do, make the car harder to work on.