What is the weaklink in my driveline?
02-04-2011, 01:41 AM
#1
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What is the weaklink in my driveline? Hey guys im runnin about 400 hp at the wheels on drag radials i highly doubt i have enough power to break anything right now but more power may be comming soon, soo wheres my weak link now? Car stats- Monster level 3, Tick level 2, pst 3.5 aluminum ds, MWC fab 9 with true trac 3.50s. Thanks guys.
02-04-2011, 06:31 AM
#6
Hey guys im runnin about 400 hp at the wheels on drag radials i highly doubt i have enough power to break anything right now but more power may be comming soon- You can break stuff on stock power with a m6. IF are man enough to let it fly off the line.
Monster level 3 Not a fan, IMO needs more time to show how "good" it is. But thats been my opinion since day one.
Tick level 2- Great unit, I have one of the originals and works well
pst 3.5 aluminum ds- Tons of people have this but IMO stick with a Steel unit when racing m6, I use a 3" steel Denny's "Nitrous Ready" unit
MWC fab 9 w/ true trac 3.50s- Good rear, SHITTY differential, you need more gearing 4.10's min, more like 4.30's Also Spool the car.
IMO other "Weak" links.....
Drag Radials- For M6 cars you need the Bias Ply, if you ever want to run a time, they have the give needed to help it not bog/slip.
T-56- In general be it power or operator error this thing can go at a moments notice so be prepared for rebuilds. Or consider alt options like a TH400/4L80e.
No Suspension- You have not listed anything else. With M6 cars you need to spend money on things like TQ arms, Shocks, LCA's and things like that as the car hits violently when you do 5k clutch dumps.
Long story short is that I have been there, picking up wheels @ 3800+ pounds and pushing everything to the limit @ 385 RWHP and my Tru Crap went out and this is the 2nd one. So just be prepared when stuff goes. Plan to upgrade or change.
Monster level 3 Not a fan, IMO needs more time to show how "good" it is. But thats been my opinion since day one.
Tick level 2- Great unit, I have one of the originals and works well
pst 3.5 aluminum ds- Tons of people have this but IMO stick with a Steel unit when racing m6, I use a 3" steel Denny's "Nitrous Ready" unit
MWC fab 9 w/ true trac 3.50s- Good rear, SHITTY differential, you need more gearing 4.10's min, more like 4.30's Also Spool the car.
IMO other "Weak" links.....
Drag Radials- For M6 cars you need the Bias Ply, if you ever want to run a time, they have the give needed to help it not bog/slip.
T-56- In general be it power or operator error this thing can go at a moments notice so be prepared for rebuilds. Or consider alt options like a TH400/4L80e.
No Suspension- You have not listed anything else. With M6 cars you need to spend money on things like TQ arms, Shocks, LCA's and things like that as the car hits violently when you do 5k clutch dumps.
Long story short is that I have been there, picking up wheels @ 3800+ pounds and pushing everything to the limit @ 385 RWHP and my Tru Crap went out and this is the 2nd one. So just be prepared when stuff goes. Plan to upgrade or change.
02-05-2011, 01:10 AM
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Hey guys im runnin about 400 hp at the wheels on drag radials i highly doubt i have enough power to break anything right now but more power may be comming soon- You can break stuff on stock power with a m6. IF are man enough to let it fly off the line.
Monster level 3 Not a fan, IMO needs more time to show how "good" it is. But thats been my opinion since day one.
Tick level 2- Great unit, I have one of the originals and works well
pst 3.5 aluminum ds- Tons of people have this but IMO stick with a Steel unit when racing m6, I use a 3" steel Denny's "Nitrous Ready" unit
MWC fab 9 w/ true trac 3.50s- Good rear, SHITTY differential, you need more gearing 4.10's min, more like 4.30's Also Spool the car.
IMO other "Weak" links.....
Drag Radials- For M6 cars you need the Bias Ply, if you ever want to run a time, they have the give needed to help it not bog/slip.
T-56- In general be it power or operator error this thing can go at a moments notice so be prepared for rebuilds. Or consider alt options like a TH400/4L80e.
No Suspension- You have not listed anything else. With M6 cars you need to spend money on things like TQ arms, Shocks, LCA's and things like that as the car hits violently when you do 5k clutch dumps.
Long story short is that I have been there, picking up wheels @ 3800+ pounds and pushing everything to the limit @ 385 RWHP and my Tru Crap went out and this is the 2nd one. So just be prepared when stuff goes. Plan to upgrade or change.
Monster level 3 Not a fan, IMO needs more time to show how "good" it is. But thats been my opinion since day one.
Tick level 2- Great unit, I have one of the originals and works well
pst 3.5 aluminum ds- Tons of people have this but IMO stick with a Steel unit when racing m6, I use a 3" steel Denny's "Nitrous Ready" unit
MWC fab 9 w/ true trac 3.50s- Good rear, SHITTY differential, you need more gearing 4.10's min, more like 4.30's Also Spool the car.
IMO other "Weak" links.....
Drag Radials- For M6 cars you need the Bias Ply, if you ever want to run a time, they have the give needed to help it not bog/slip.
T-56- In general be it power or operator error this thing can go at a moments notice so be prepared for rebuilds. Or consider alt options like a TH400/4L80e.
No Suspension- You have not listed anything else. With M6 cars you need to spend money on things like TQ arms, Shocks, LCA's and things like that as the car hits violently when you do 5k clutch dumps.
Long story short is that I have been there, picking up wheels @ 3800+ pounds and pushing everything to the limit @ 385 RWHP and my Tru Crap went out and this is the 2nd one. So just be prepared when stuff goes. Plan to upgrade or change.
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02-05-2011, 08:29 AM
#8
Shitcan that tru-crap diff, those things are junk, make a good rear no stronger then a stock 10 bolt, literally.
Gear wise 5.23 will not work... you'll be done before you even get to the 1/8th miile mark. 4.30, or 4.56 at your power level.
Junk teh drag radial, first time you wheel hop those things which with a stick car, seems to happen alot, that diff will be done. That, and they don't take the shock of a stick car for ****. Unless you want to spend the 3 grand to put a mcloud slipper clutch in, you won't get anywhere with a radial tire on a stick car. 28x9 et drag will fit in the car without any major modding to the car, put them on a 15x10 wheel and the width flattens out pretty nicely. 4.56 gear with that tire should work very well.
The clutch you have in there leave it alone, and see how it holds up. Next time it's getting changed, see about getting the mcloud bellhousing, just for safety. The aftermarket clutches haven't been coming apart as of lately, but there's lots of new ones out there that aren't 100% known yet.
Gear wise 5.23 will not work... you'll be done before you even get to the 1/8th miile mark. 4.30, or 4.56 at your power level.
Junk teh drag radial, first time you wheel hop those things which with a stick car, seems to happen alot, that diff will be done. That, and they don't take the shock of a stick car for ****. Unless you want to spend the 3 grand to put a mcloud slipper clutch in, you won't get anywhere with a radial tire on a stick car. 28x9 et drag will fit in the car without any major modding to the car, put them on a 15x10 wheel and the width flattens out pretty nicely. 4.56 gear with that tire should work very well.
The clutch you have in there leave it alone, and see how it holds up. Next time it's getting changed, see about getting the mcloud bellhousing, just for safety. The aftermarket clutches haven't been coming apart as of lately, but there's lots of new ones out there that aren't 100% known yet.
02-05-2011, 09:26 AM
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What is a monster level 2 and a tick level 3? You said you have the true track for the street but then you want to run a 5.23 gear I don't get it. Your best bet would be a set of 4.46s ditch the radials rev it to the moon and find the weak links the fun way.
02-05-2011, 12:03 PM
#10
I agree with JL completely. I will be ordering a QTP bellhousing with a good clutch (havent decided which one) I ran a tru crap and broke quick. guess it didnt like the 4.56s with hoosier QTP tires at 6k dumps. The 4.56s are fine on the street with a t56 and could DD easy.
02-05-2011, 08:18 PM
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5.23 will work because i intend to use 5th gear and with a 26" tire and 6800 redline i have up to 134 mph in 5th. Monster level 3 clutch, tick level 2 strengthened rebuild and i would only be running the 5.23 with a spool in my second drop out, Which would be for track use only because i like getting 30mpg with my 3.50s and true trac on the highway.
02-06-2011, 02:04 AM
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Thats pretty much the situation. I see most people dont use 5th but i dont have a problem with it, soo far only raced on the street using 5th when i had 4.10s
02-06-2011, 08:01 AM
#14
o.k, drag racing 101. You don't use any overdriven gear when racing. Period, 4th gear, 1 to 1, and that's as far as you go.
This, is something that needs to be understood. Try it if you want to, but when it doesn't work don't say we didn't warn ya.
Oh, and if you think a 26 inch tire will hold a 5.23 gear and the 1st gear ratio you have alot to learn. The tq multiplication with that rear ratio and the 2.66 1st is going to be like having about 300 more hp then you have now, and trying to get down with a 4.10, and still the 26 inch tire.
And I can tell you 100% that will not work. Guys with over 450 at the tires find an advantage with 4.30's and a stick using a 28 inch tire.
26, is not an option if you actually want to see the car ET like it should. Put a 28 on it, do what needs to be done or don't expect it to work to it's full ability.
I respect that you're trying to think outside the box, noone ever came up with an innovation just following what everyone else does, but with the stuff you are thinking is going to work... it's already been tried, and trust me when I say the path you want to take, isn't gonna get you anywhere.
I've seen someone try to use a TH400, and run a 2.6x ratio in a rear end, and try to use just 1st and 2nd. The car ran in the 10's and I thought that was good.... we finally talked the guy into putting a 3.89 gear in the car, and using all 3 gears....
It picked up 3/4 of a second and 9 mph.
Essentially, it's a similar situation to what you're trying to do... it didn't work because it was too far out in left field. You're just in right field too far.
This, is something that needs to be understood. Try it if you want to, but when it doesn't work don't say we didn't warn ya.
Oh, and if you think a 26 inch tire will hold a 5.23 gear and the 1st gear ratio you have alot to learn. The tq multiplication with that rear ratio and the 2.66 1st is going to be like having about 300 more hp then you have now, and trying to get down with a 4.10, and still the 26 inch tire.
And I can tell you 100% that will not work. Guys with over 450 at the tires find an advantage with 4.30's and a stick using a 28 inch tire.
26, is not an option if you actually want to see the car ET like it should. Put a 28 on it, do what needs to be done or don't expect it to work to it's full ability.
I respect that you're trying to think outside the box, noone ever came up with an innovation just following what everyone else does, but with the stuff you are thinking is going to work... it's already been tried, and trust me when I say the path you want to take, isn't gonna get you anywhere.
I've seen someone try to use a TH400, and run a 2.6x ratio in a rear end, and try to use just 1st and 2nd. The car ran in the 10's and I thought that was good.... we finally talked the guy into putting a 3.89 gear in the car, and using all 3 gears....
It picked up 3/4 of a second and 9 mph.
Essentially, it's a similar situation to what you're trying to do... it didn't work because it was too far out in left field. You're just in right field too far.
02-07-2011, 10:49 AM
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go 4.10 or 430
ive been running a true trac in my 12bolt for 3 years now and knock on wood havent broke it yet beating the **** out of it with over 300 5-6k dumps and lots of 1.4 60's @500-700+whp .... maybe im just a lucky one
i also tried a 275/60 radial once and it only took 3 terrible passes to shell the drive shaft and every pass felt and hooked like ****, get some bias plys
ive been running a true trac in my 12bolt for 3 years now and knock on wood havent broke it yet beating the **** out of it with over 300 5-6k dumps and lots of 1.4 60's @500-700+whp .... maybe im just a lucky one
i also tried a 275/60 radial once and it only took 3 terrible passes to shell the drive shaft and every pass felt and hooked like ****, get some bias plys
02-09-2011, 06:32 AM
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Well that gives me a little more confidence in the true trac i only plan on launching @ 4k. And to Joey thats about what i was runnin with my 4.10s but you are on a 28 in tire. You wanna go to kcir on the 19th the air should be really good and hopefully the track will be too
02-09-2011, 08:33 AM
#20
Well that gives me a little more confidence in the true trac i only plan on launching @ 4k. And to Joey thats about what i was runnin with my 4.10s but you are on a 28 in tire. You wanna go to kcir on the 19th the air should be really good and hopefully the track will be too
Don't even think about trying to slip the clutch either, a couple local kids used to do that all the time and they'd to thru them faster then you change your socks. NO clutch, can take that.