Help: 550hp on 28x10.5-15 Et drag
03-21-2011, 04:45 PM
#21
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Very good tips and info in this thread.
I also agree with the car not transfering weight. It just leaves blowing the tires off, Not raising up in the front too much, and also not squating in the rear like it should.
Theres alot left in your combo with some fine tuning of the suspension. Get those QA1's back on there and try some fine tuning and you should see some more et out of that car. Thing def. makes good power!
I've come to reallize there is a fine line between getting a car to leave Good, and wheel hop too.
Good luck with it man! And Your asking the right people. JL knows his $hit.
-James
I also agree with the car not transfering weight. It just leaves blowing the tires off, Not raising up in the front too much, and also not squating in the rear like it should.
Theres alot left in your combo with some fine tuning of the suspension. Get those QA1's back on there and try some fine tuning and you should see some more et out of that car. Thing def. makes good power!
I've come to reallize there is a fine line between getting a car to leave Good, and wheel hop too.
Good luck with it man! And Your asking the right people. JL knows his $hit.
-James
03-21-2011, 05:12 PM
#22
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I know the reason why I'm only revving to 6300 is because of the baby cam in this car, but im still shocked with the numbers it ran, If i eventually go with a bigger cam, Don recommended going with a LSL 243/247 on 113+3, if not I was also looking at the off the shelf thunder racing stroker v.3 cam 247/251 - .624/.632 - 112 lsa , ptv clearance is fine but my springs are rated up to a .650 lift so im limited to what i can go with unless i change them out..as for now i just want to focus on the getting the suspension down, the cars not hooking and staying straight like it used to and im starting to think it has more to do with than just the shocks, but i may be wrong
03-21-2011, 05:21 PM
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Yeah there should def. be more in the setup. But it's hauling a$$ already!
Hope you figure it all out soon. Shocks could be part of it, but your probably right about it not being the Only issue needing addressed.
Looks Great, and runs Great! GL
Hope you figure it all out soon. Shocks could be part of it, but your probably right about it not being the Only issue needing addressed.
Looks Great, and runs Great! GL
03-22-2011, 08:48 AM
#24
If the rear spring isolaters aren't out, take them out, that will drop teh back of the car 3/4 of an inch, and will help get more static weight on the rear.
Anything you can do to get weight out of the front.. do it. Where is the ride height in the front? It should be abotu 26 inches from teh ground to the fender lip, when measuring thru the center of the tire. If it's higher then that lower it.. having it too high is like running a travel limiter.
Where are the shocks set? Once you get the qa1's back on the car, put the fronts on 3, one being full loose not 0 like 1/2 the asshat's call it and put the rear's on 5/6 No more then that..
The lower control arms, are they sitting so the front is a little higher then the back at ride height? If not, then move them in the lower control arm brackets, add relocation brackets if need be. If the car is kicking out to one side all the time then the rear isn't centered/square in the chassis, start taking some measurments (plumb-bob and check for center on the body, measure from lip to lip on the rims, move the car a couple times and check again, should be within a 1/16 of an inch from one side to the other or less) Not sure where the tq arm is in it's mount, if it has multiple holes in the mount, try raising or lowering it, one direction is going to help. Not sure where the pinion angle is on it but if it's any more then -2, put it at -2 to -1... you don't need it any more then that.
Not sure where you had the tires air pressure wise, anything more then 12 on a stick car with a 28x10.5S et drag never seems to work all that great. with a stick car...
Valve springs, I'd be checking them, they don't last forever, and believe me, if they have 10K on them, they're probably alot weaker then you think. Bigger the cam the more this is an issue as well.
The cams you are looking at are fine if you want to stick with the stock 90mm style intake. If you want to put a single plane on it with a top mounted tb, I would be looking for something more in the higher 240 to low 250 range with a 110 or so lsa... tunign that will be a bitch but it would make more power... all depends what you want to do with the car.
4.30 gearset, get that in the car too... unless you are gonna hit it with a 200 to 250 in that case don't change the gear. Instead, buy a TH400.. because you won't get it down the track on any level of success with the stick in it at that power level.
Anything you can do to get weight out of the front.. do it. Where is the ride height in the front? It should be abotu 26 inches from teh ground to the fender lip, when measuring thru the center of the tire. If it's higher then that lower it.. having it too high is like running a travel limiter.
Where are the shocks set? Once you get the qa1's back on the car, put the fronts on 3, one being full loose not 0 like 1/2 the asshat's call it and put the rear's on 5/6 No more then that..
The lower control arms, are they sitting so the front is a little higher then the back at ride height? If not, then move them in the lower control arm brackets, add relocation brackets if need be. If the car is kicking out to one side all the time then the rear isn't centered/square in the chassis, start taking some measurments (plumb-bob and check for center on the body, measure from lip to lip on the rims, move the car a couple times and check again, should be within a 1/16 of an inch from one side to the other or less) Not sure where the tq arm is in it's mount, if it has multiple holes in the mount, try raising or lowering it, one direction is going to help. Not sure where the pinion angle is on it but if it's any more then -2, put it at -2 to -1... you don't need it any more then that.
Not sure where you had the tires air pressure wise, anything more then 12 on a stick car with a 28x10.5S et drag never seems to work all that great. with a stick car...
Valve springs, I'd be checking them, they don't last forever, and believe me, if they have 10K on them, they're probably alot weaker then you think. Bigger the cam the more this is an issue as well.
The cams you are looking at are fine if you want to stick with the stock 90mm style intake. If you want to put a single plane on it with a top mounted tb, I would be looking for something more in the higher 240 to low 250 range with a 110 or so lsa... tunign that will be a bitch but it would make more power... all depends what you want to do with the car.
4.30 gearset, get that in the car too... unless you are gonna hit it with a 200 to 250 in that case don't change the gear. Instead, buy a TH400.. because you won't get it down the track on any level of success with the stick in it at that power level.
03-22-2011, 10:40 AM
#25
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If the rear spring isolaters aren't out, take them out, that will drop teh back of the car 3/4 of an inch, and will help get more static weight on the rear.
Anything you can do to get weight out of the front.. do it. Where is the ride height in the front? It should be abotu 26 inches from teh ground to the fender lip, when measuring thru the center of the tire. If it's higher then that lower it.. having it too high is like running a travel limiter.
Where are the shocks set? Once you get the qa1's back on the car, put the fronts on 3, one being full loose not 0 like 1/2 the asshat's call it and put the rear's on 5/6 No more then that..
The lower control arms, are they sitting so the front is a little higher then the back at ride height? If not, then move them in the lower control arm brackets, add relocation brackets if need be. If the car is kicking out to one side all the time then the rear isn't centered/square in the chassis, start taking some measurments (plumb-bob and check for center on the body, measure from lip to lip on the rims, move the car a couple times and check again, should be within a 1/16 of an inch from one side to the other or less) Not sure where the tq arm is in it's mount, if it has multiple holes in the mount, try raising or lowering it, one direction is going to help. Not sure where the pinion angle is on it but if it's any more then -2, put it at -2 to -1... you don't need it any more then that.
Not sure where you had the tires air pressure wise, anything more then 12 on a stick car with a 28x10.5S et drag never seems to work all that great. with a stick car...
Valve springs, I'd be checking them, they don't last forever, and believe me, if they have 10K on them, they're probably alot weaker then you think. Bigger the cam the more this is an issue as well.
The cams you are looking at are fine if you want to stick with the stock 90mm style intake. If you want to put a single plane on it with a top mounted tb, I would be looking for something more in the higher 240 to low 250 range with a 110 or so lsa... tunign that will be a bitch but it would make more power... all depends what you want to do with the car.
4.30 gearset, get that in the car too... unless you are gonna hit it with a 200 to 250 in that case don't change the gear. Instead, buy a TH400.. because you won't get it down the track on any level of success with the stick in it at that power level.
Anything you can do to get weight out of the front.. do it. Where is the ride height in the front? It should be abotu 26 inches from teh ground to the fender lip, when measuring thru the center of the tire. If it's higher then that lower it.. having it too high is like running a travel limiter.
Where are the shocks set? Once you get the qa1's back on the car, put the fronts on 3, one being full loose not 0 like 1/2 the asshat's call it and put the rear's on 5/6 No more then that..
The lower control arms, are they sitting so the front is a little higher then the back at ride height? If not, then move them in the lower control arm brackets, add relocation brackets if need be. If the car is kicking out to one side all the time then the rear isn't centered/square in the chassis, start taking some measurments (plumb-bob and check for center on the body, measure from lip to lip on the rims, move the car a couple times and check again, should be within a 1/16 of an inch from one side to the other or less) Not sure where the tq arm is in it's mount, if it has multiple holes in the mount, try raising or lowering it, one direction is going to help. Not sure where the pinion angle is on it but if it's any more then -2, put it at -2 to -1... you don't need it any more then that.
Not sure where you had the tires air pressure wise, anything more then 12 on a stick car with a 28x10.5S et drag never seems to work all that great. with a stick car...
Valve springs, I'd be checking them, they don't last forever, and believe me, if they have 10K on them, they're probably alot weaker then you think. Bigger the cam the more this is an issue as well.
The cams you are looking at are fine if you want to stick with the stock 90mm style intake. If you want to put a single plane on it with a top mounted tb, I would be looking for something more in the higher 240 to low 250 range with a 110 or so lsa... tunign that will be a bitch but it would make more power... all depends what you want to do with the car.
4.30 gearset, get that in the car too... unless you are gonna hit it with a 200 to 250 in that case don't change the gear. Instead, buy a TH400.. because you won't get it down the track on any level of success with the stick in it at that power level.
03-22-2011, 11:31 AM
#26
Don't waste your time with an a4 unless you are going to put a 4l80 in it.... unless you like having tranny problems. if you do the auto, manual valve body, shift it yourself, saves about 1000 hours of trying to get the damn computer to do what you can yourself easily, and accurately if you have a good tach in the car.
That cam will work with the fast.. just put new springs on it while it's apart.... check them once you have the old ones off, you'll be surprised how much weaker they probably are.
turn - on the shock until it won't turn.. that is setting #1. Every click up from there, another #/setting.
All the way loose is 1, all the way tight is 12. Set front at 3, rears at 5/6
That cam will work with the fast.. just put new springs on it while it's apart.... check them once you have the old ones off, you'll be surprised how much weaker they probably are.
turn - on the shock until it won't turn.. that is setting #1. Every click up from there, another #/setting.
All the way loose is 1, all the way tight is 12. Set front at 3, rears at 5/6
03-23-2011, 11:48 AM
#30
I talked to Geoff at EPS for about 30 minutes the other day, I never learn some much about camshafts and lost at the same time lol. But some big cube guys get a custom grind from him and make great power. I would at least give him a call. I myself will be going with one of his camshafts.
03-23-2011, 12:10 PM
#31
I'd do something on an xer lobe to be totally honest, they make good power and aren't too radical compared to some of the new stuff. 248 intake 256 exhaust duration keep the lift in the high 6.teen to 620 range..., put it on a 110 lsa and put 3 degrees of advance into the thing.
Degree the camshaft strait up to start.
That's me.
Degree the camshaft strait up to start.
That's me.
03-23-2011, 12:14 PM
#32
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I'd do something on an xer lobe to be totally honest, they make good power and aren't too radical compared to some of the new stuff. 248 intake 256 exhaust duration keep the lift in the high 6.teen to 620 range..., put it on a 110 lsa and put 3 degrees of advance into the thing.
Degree the camshaft strait up to start.
That's me.
Degree the camshaft strait up to start.
That's me.
03-23-2011, 12:27 PM
#35
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yea to put all this cam talk aside, i centered the rear,LCAs are on a good angle but the car is still wheel hopping and kicking out like a ****! im still running the stock shocks and sprins up front and the qa1s in the rear are set on the STIFFEST setting bc once i soften the drivers side, it doesnt click and oil starts to leak out so im going to have to send the rears out now too 
Btw I am currently sitting on BALD 275 nitto 555rs so maybe that could also be the problem? Im starting to get a bit frustrated, last summer the car was hooking amazing and spinning completely straight with these tires, So im really hoping its the shocks and bald tires causing this
Btw I am currently sitting on BALD 275 nitto 555rs so maybe that could also be the problem? Im starting to get a bit frustrated, last summer the car was hooking amazing and spinning completely straight with these tires, So im really hoping its the shocks and bald tires causing this
04-02-2011, 02:46 AM
#36
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if i decide to track the car only and maybe drive it 3-4 times a month on the street, would i be better off running a solid roller cam and race gas? or is my current setup restricting it too much
04-02-2011, 06:48 AM
#37
If you're going to do that then you definitely want to put a carb intake on it, SD/open loop retune it, and the next time the motor is apart for any reason change the pistons to get the compression up to at least 13 to 1.... but that's me.
As for cam, yes solid roller too while it's apart... but again now you're spending a bunch of $.
I'd get the qa1's repaired on the back, and buy a good set of afco's front and rear for the car and shitcan the qa1's. Too many people I have seen as of lately having this issue. I guess it's always been a problem, just now ya hear about it more.
Sounds like the problem, is probably tire related, and the shocks are shot.
As for cam, yes solid roller too while it's apart... but again now you're spending a bunch of $.
I'd get the qa1's repaired on the back, and buy a good set of afco's front and rear for the car and shitcan the qa1's. Too many people I have seen as of lately having this issue. I guess it's always been a problem, just now ya hear about it more.
Sounds like the problem, is probably tire related, and the shocks are shot.
04-02-2011, 01:16 PM
#38
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If you're going to do that then you definitely want to put a carb intake on it, SD/open loop retune it, and the next time the motor is apart for any reason change the pistons to get the compression up to at least 13 to 1.... but that's me.
As for cam, yes solid roller too while it's apart... but again now you're spending a bunch of $.
I'd get the qa1's repaired on the back, and buy a good set of afco's front and rear for the car and shitcan the qa1's. Too many people I have seen as of lately having this issue. I guess it's always been a problem, just now ya hear about it more.
Sounds like the problem, is probably tire related, and the shocks are shot.
As for cam, yes solid roller too while it's apart... but again now you're spending a bunch of $.
I'd get the qa1's repaired on the back, and buy a good set of afco's front and rear for the car and shitcan the qa1's. Too many people I have seen as of lately having this issue. I guess it's always been a problem, just now ya hear about it more.
Sounds like the problem, is probably tire related, and the shocks are shot.
