Dave88LX

• Also trapped 114 MPH on one of the runs.
• Running on 2002 era Pep Boys Futura Z-rated 245/50-16 tires.
• Spinning off the line, the 1-2, and the 2-3 shift.
• Currently have a mail-order tune. Hope to pick up a bit more with a dyno tune.

WHY IS MY CAR SO SLOW!

dtsti

iTrader: (6)

Get some slicks, should bring that time down a bunch.

gs462

iTrader: (4)

113 MPH is 11.80 MPH with a good 60 ft time. you NEED tires

Dave88LX

I knew that tires and the driver were going to be the limiting factors tonight (I haven't driven this car really since 2003). I'm scared to get tires. I don't have the money for new rear end at the moment. I know that's what I need though (tires). Waiting for my MGW shifter to come in too.

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, you'll definitely need a stronger rear-end and slicks if you want to go faster. What was your race weight, if you don't mind me asking?

Dave88LX

Full weight Formula with 2 baby seats in the back, spare and jack still in etc.

I weigh 205.

Any estimates on my race weight?

I see now this should have gone in race results, sorry!

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Drop the racing weight of the car, get some REAL tires and get it dyno tuned. Then, try again.

Dave88LX

Yeah that's pretty much the plan. Going to Cecil on Wednesday, at least that's the plan. I'll drop the spare tire/jack and baby seats.

Not sure if there is any other easy weight to drop.

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

well theres almost 2 tenths in the 60 with street tires, i've been 2.02 in bracket mode with street tires 1.90's should be easy. next go to a track that hooks cap's not well known for that partner. if you don't have a low gear in the rear you also won't get the ET to match the mph. Get some drag radials and some gear the mph should go down but the ET should plumit easy .5 i would guess.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If you do not have the $$$ for the rear, don't race it and at this point, have fun.

As a comparision I had a Mis matched 383 LT1 in my Camaro. Forged 383 with CNC stock LT1 castings 11.25 to 1, w/ a hotcam (due to emissions), but matted to a 2000-2500 ish stock style stall and on a 10 bolt rear and 3.23's No suspension what so ever on a 16" Nitto managed 12.08 @ 113 in cool air (round 200 DA)

This was back in 2003 and before really learning how to build/race a car and IF I had to do it again, there would be quite a few different things. Also to keep in mind, at this time the 94/95 ODBI stall wall issue was very much still a real thing so it def did not help having no way to really get up on the converter.

IMO today you have many options such as a Reverse Manual Valve Bodies 4L80e or a beefed up six speed with tons of suspension and a good clutch as well as a 2 step if you can swing it.

At this time just go out and have fun!

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

with 2.18 60's the rear isn't breaking anytime soon, and the 4l80e is nice but way over kill till your damn near in the 9's, just my opinion.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

4L60e's are plain garbage and when you go beyond 400 rwhp they are certainly suspect regardless how "beefed" up they are. Spend the money now or later but unless he wants to go down the racing a 6-speed path, he will need to decide soon before he starts breaking things.

And he will.

Dave88LX

I do want to keep it a stick car. I know it's counter-productive to drag racing sort of, but it's really more of a street car. I want to be able to have fun with the car. My Mustang was an auto when I bought it, I hated the trans. Swapping it over to a 5-speed was the best thing I ever did to that car. I don't mind racing a 6 speed, I think it's more fun. I'll try and get a rear over the winter.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

There is a world of difference from a 5 speed Fox Body and a 6 speed 4th gen Fbody.

Do some searching on m6 drag racing and you will get a clear idea of what you may need to invest in. Like said its about having fun. I just would not brag or talk crap and I was not even doing that running bottom 12's.

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

i have to say theres nothing more fun then driving or racing a stick. I love my 6-speed, but for business side (bracket racing) i have a powerglide and transbrake.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Im thinking your car is way down on power unless the DA is really bad where you race. With your mods and a good DA id expect 125ish mph trap speeds even with your poor 60ft.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Good Question, All that stuff is not helping, gotta remove it for racing. As the more you have to pull, the slower you are. Also helps greatly with weight transfer and traction.

Dave88LX

World of difference in what way, driving or racing? I am going to keep the car a stick, because it's fun to drive that way. My Mustang was an auto, and I never really 'liked' driving it until I put that 5-speed in it. I have another Mustang, gutted shell with a cage, that will be an auto, and strictly drag racing.

I'm not sure what that last sentence means about bragging or talking crap though? Lost me on that one.

I see a lot of talk around here about 'DA'. I need to learn more about it. I do know that it was 90* and high humidity that night. Is there anywhere I can look up historical data for a certain night to see what the temp/humidity was?

Dave88LX

Doesn't look like this weather look-up works.

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...t+Weather+Data

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I completely disagree with this statement.

There are several GOOD companies (some are site sponsors) that are putting out some seriously well-built 4L60Es. I have been beating the snot out of my Level "2" Performabuilt (not even the top of the line package) for over 2 years now, 60'ing in the 1.4x range on both slicks AND drag radials with a 4000+ stall and it isn't so much as hiccuping.

Back in the day these options for built 4L60Es didn't exist. Nowadays they are FAR more reliable.