TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Got some small updates for what's been going on lately. Did a little weight reduction today and since the radiator will be in the rear I cut out the core support and all the metal I didn't need. My wheels came in finally and they are 15x11 Alumastars with a 3" backspace. To go along with the wheels TRZ is building me a 9" moly housing that will consist of a Strange lightweight ultracase (with a ball bearing instead of a tapered bearing), lightened ring gear, 40 spline gundrilled axles, and star flanged.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Love the new wheels what did you have 8" wheels? I have 10" wheels, they make a nice contact patch on 275's although I have wider hoops to swap on my wheels to make them 12".

I really like that 9" that thing is bad *** TRZ does some nice work.

I see you have tubular a arms are those TRZ pieces?

Someone's getting a little sawzall happy!!!! Starting to look like mine under the hood lol!

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Nice build. I'll have to keep an eye out for you at Speed World.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I like that that you have the ability to change wheel size, that's neat. I had a set of 15X10 Draglites but I wanted to try an 11" to see how they work on the 275. The front a-arms are Racecrafts, Mark got me into these while I was at the SGMP race last October. I weighed what I took out of the frontend yesterday and it was right at 25 pounds, the sawzall is my best friend! I'm excited to get the car going again.

Thanks! I usually show up every Funday Sunday when the car is running.

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

What does the car weigh now? Nice work!

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

The last time it weighed 2675 right before I took it to the track. I know that I have taken at least 50 more pounds out of it between the front end stuff, door panels, and window regulators. Also, more weight still has to come out when I complete the fuel cell and radiator stuff. I'm hoping it's 25.. when I get done then I'll just need to add weight for events lol.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Damn bubba 2675?!?! Mine is 2745 empty with over a half tank of fuel.

Do you have an idea how much the gas tank swap to a fuel cell is going to lose for your? You have about 3" more frame rail than I do up front also.

Also do you know how much the upper and lower control arms are worth the racecraft ones you have?

LoL couple more questions, do you have mini-tubs? You said you put manual windows in right? Just trying to get and idea where the 75 pound difference is.

I know our cars are like brothers lol they are so close to one another. I need to get some heads on mine now, some 243's with some bowl work and a valve job and I'd be happy.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I have no idea on the fuel cell yet because we only have the material and I'm waiting on the car to go in the shop. I believe the racecraft upper arms are a 10 pound difference and the lowers aren't anything different from stock. I put the window regs and door panels on after I weighed 2675 so it should be lighter by now. I have TRZ's column so that might explain some of the difference. Also, while we had the dash out we cut all of the inner cowl panel flush with the firewall which was 10-11 pounds. Furthermore, I used a spotweld cutter to cut off every single bracket in the rear of the interior. Also, I believe rewiring the entire car with the Spaghetti Menders stuff saved me a decent amount of weight. The subframes on the car are really light because it's just a piece of moly tubing. I think I saved 12 pounds switching from the box style mild to the round moly. I don't have mini tubs at the moment and I plan on keeping the stock wells.....for now lol. I'm sure your car would fly with heads especially since it's already flying without them. I think your engine has finally sold me on buying rod bolts and trying to turn it higher. I might as well try because this engine isn't getting any younger.

This was before it left the shop and it had no fuel, dash, kirkey seat, or wiring.


My center section came in today

studderin

iTrader: (28)

wow lots of good update! Are you going to keep the frame rails stock, stock like that? (trim off the sides of the airdamn, lower rad mount triangle) TRZ will know about the specs for them "stock" for classes. I think you can trim off the frame horn flange part and go to a lighter small plate end, and work off that. Some other class is a distance of the wheel center, or the shock, our cars we can cut them back a bunch and be in that spec. Thats 10-15#s up there can do alot of the %s.

You see the rear hatch metal I did. 20.6 still running the stock tank, anf having the hump for the Ttops and carrying stuff. I heard the hump was 18-20, but thats gona mess the % to get back, with your front end that light. Oh eric at MWC pointed on one car he did, thouse top plates over the front shocks (the thick, maybe 1/4 or .200 gusset middle plates) You dill out all those spot weld pop them off. And there were 6 or 7 a side, you still have 2 or 3 layers under them. I looks like your gona run front bars off the dash bar ends anyway, I would only do them if you notch and weld the Tube of the outside of that area anyway. I bet you can remove the 2nd plate down too, if you put the tube close, try to get it over the upper mount inside the wheel well. You can cut a bunch out behind them too, down to the ends of the firewall... haha I bet you could get the 2590.

Got any better pics of the inside of the dash. did you keep the windshield in for that work?\



edit, I think you have the front arms backward. Lowers save about 10 pounds upper not much, the steel poly ones are the same or weight more even. The rod end ones, if you spend the time spceing them right you can set them to swing free and not bind, and aline the front end with the wheels tucked in a little, I got about 5/8th 3/4 per side in more. Looks alot better.



you have a 2001, I wouldn't worry about the more rpm. 6400 is little short you that cam. But see what it MPH the best with, just be smart about it. No 7400 out of the water box with no load on it, or letting it tag the limiter. You have the stock pan and baffle still?

edit #3 lol. those dont look like racecraft spindles?

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I took the framerail horns off yesterday along with all the lower radiator support stuff. It's bare at the moment and I'm just going to run a plate like you said and attach it to the current bumper support. Also, I'm going to cut the t-top well out and mount the radiator flat below that area. I think the little radiator will fit perfect in that spot and be out of the way.

I was looking at that metal on the strut towers the other day. I said to myself "man that looks like a lot of weight" but I would need to do something to restrengthen that area. I do have the uppers and lower weights mixed up and I don't know why I guess I had a brain fart. With these uppers and lowers I got the wheels spaced a little more forward than stock. Luckily I have a 2.25 backspace wheel which shoves the wheel up inside for a nice look and hopefully it will avoid hitting the wheelwell.

My results with shift RPM has been 130mph shifting at 6600 or 106-107 in the 1/8th. I have a stock pan with no baffle at the moment but I have been running 1 quart over and have the larger filter. I plan on buying that baffle that I have seen on here before I take it out next.

I have a set of 2" drop Racecrafts that slammed the car pretty hard for street driving. I purchased these from a friend for literally nothing and I believe they are Burkharts. I believe these are a stock ride height or at least that's what I measured when I compared them. I'm going to put the Racecrafts back on because I don't drive it much on the street anymore and plan on going really low. Furthermore, I didn't put in my Racecraft K-member yet and still have my old BMR. The Racecraft one doesn't have any mounts and he set it up like their race K-member so it doesn't have any slots.

I'll take a couple of pictures of the dash when I have it out again. I did the work with the windshield inside the car.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

ya good deal. thats some good race car parts, the holes over slots for conoital arms. But having the take the arm out the spin the rod end to move anything add a ton of time.
If the spindles have square blocks for the upper and lower ball joint holes there burharts. Did you do that aliment with the rack mounted there for the BMR Kmember, how was the bumpsteer?

Your going to run a tube still thur the firewall over the shock towers right?

107 is the 1/8 thew great h/c SBE. I did a 100/130 but then my trans needed 4 gears, so the driver mod and slow *** shifts were slowing up the front half.




TRZ gona make a TA that bolts to the top and bottom of the 9" around the 3rd member. thats will save some weight over the stock stock setups. I figured out my S60 with the older R/T fill length TA is 45-50#s more then a fab (with thats style TA)

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I'm going to run a tube through the firewall and I will more than likely cut out the metal in between the shock tower and the firewall. I'm going to do fenderwell exit headers soon so that will make a ton of room. TRZ makes a torque arm mount that goes on a 9" and it has good clearance around the 3rd member. I'm trying to make it strong as possible and still retain some lightness. If I had a 60 I probably wouldn't be doing all of this because I know they can take some power. My 12 bolt was howling like an old ***** plus I have a person that wants my entire rear setup (rearend, wheels, etc). Here's a pic of the mount and torque arm (not my car it's Mike Fratenas).



The bumpsteer was good on both accel and decel and I verified it with an alignment rack.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

Sweet race car.

Coach

JaSSon

iTrader: (11)

Car is looking great! I need to get off my *** and work on mine.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Thanks Coach! Pewter power!


Thanks, I have been on a roll lately but I wish I had someone to keep a fire lit under my ***.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I would really like upper and lower control arms along with the spindles.

I want to keep my power windows, but the column is something I want to do along with a quick release wheel to make it easier getting in and out.

My cowl panel is also cut flush like yours. My brackets in the rear are gone also.

I'm interested in how much the menders wiring saved you in weight maybe 25 pounds?

I also have custom moly subframe connectors. Everything on my suspension is chromoly aside from the front control arms. Tranny crossmember, K-member, LCA's, TA, etc. Really helps.

I would love to see what a set of cheap ported 243's or even 799's would do to my car. I wish my car had the power to trap what yours does at 107-108. I think I could go 6.20's at least and crack into the 9's for sure.

I think you can't go wrong with the rod bolts. I have the Katech's fwiw and not ARP's.

I turned it to 7400 the first time last week, but I had some traction problems and it only went 6.49 but it mph'd the same so I think I will keep it at 7100 or so and let it not work as hard. I did tap the limiter too at 7500 and it still runs so thank god for that lol!

I think I have reached the end of the cam-only road though. I either would have to do some weight reduction and lose about 100lbs to take the record and I'm not losing any weight since I ran 6.38 and have actually gained almost 20 lbs so I'm not doing myself any favors there lol. I just bought a wet kit and I am having the converter tightened for some big nitrous pills (for a stock shortblock anyways). Looking for low 9's and 5.80's on a 200 shot and maybe more on a 250 or 300.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I believe the wiring saved me at least 25+ pounds because everything was removed from the car and I just powered the essentials. Also, I rewired the stock PCM harness and took out any of the unnecessary connectors. I mounted the PCM inside the car on the HVAC blockoff plate using a S10 style bracket. Then I cut the wiring harness in half and used two 30 pin pass through weatherpack connectors on the firewall. This way on the outside I can just undo two 8mm bolts and the entire outside harness is free of the car. I did this mainly to clean up the engine bay and to make removing the engine fast.

I'm sold on the rods bolts and I have decided to put them in when I do the pan baffle. It sounds like me and you are tired of this motor nonsense lol. I'm trying to keep mine from looking like a tin can but I know that's what its going to take if I wanted a shot at any record. I'm not intentionally going for the shortblock record, I just want to go fast! I'm putting the nitrous on as soon as I get back out in hopes of 5. something.

On another note a friend of mine just sold me a 102mm TB today for cheapppp! He needed the money bad and I know I can sell it for double. I'm thinking about trying a 102mm intake because I know someone that has a 102 that's been ported by Mamo and he will let me borrow it. I was thinking rod bolts, pan baffle, .040 Cometic head gasket, 102mm intake, and try to make a little more power. I don't know what I would gain over a ported 92 but it might be worth a try since it's free.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Got some new parts! I bought a 9950 2-port regulator off of someone for 20 dollars so I sent it back to Magnafuel and they rebuilt it for really cheap. Turns out it didn't have anything wrong with it upon flow test but I'm glad I sent it anyways. Also, I threw up a pic of the new TB.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Lookin good bro I'm really close to spraying mine too! The race to the 5's is on! LOL

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

I already won that one!

Looking good man. It will fly on the bottle. Cant wait to see it