70hemicuda

iTrader: (33)

The car has a race weight of 3400lbs 8.8 rear with 3.73 gears. Puts 556 down on the spray. The tires will be going on 15x10 draglites. I have looked at hoosier qtp's and the mt et street drag. Size would be helpful too.

Thanks, Brian

blu byu EH

iTrader: (25)

Street or track? 6 speed or Auto?

Hands down IMO Hoosier's FTW! 28x10.5x15 I think you can get the QTP in 28". For the street

But track 28x10.5x15s slicks.. this is a 6 speed tire.

70hemicuda

iTrader: (33)

do the slicks need tubes? This is for the track only, as i have a set of street wheels

blu byu EH

iTrader: (25)

No your be fine. I don't run tubes in my slick and they hold air fine for me at lease. If its a 6 speed car then no. reason why b/c the tire will spin on the rim and if that happens then the valve steam will get ripped off and you will lose all of your air....

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

What works for you may not work for him.. screws are a good idea and cheap.. better to be safe than sorry

buzz12586

iTrader: (17)

Not trying to be a dick, but a thread with this title shows up at least once a week. Just do a quick search and you will find a ton of info.

70hemicuda

iTrader: (33)

ive been around here long enough to know how to search. I was still confused, so that's why i posted. Think I may go with the qtp's just incase i wanna use them on the street every once in a while. Thanks for the help

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

I just went through this same choice. I debated the qtp's for a while, but ultimately I didnt think the softer sidewall was the way to go for a 6spd. You could run tubes and screw them to the rim if they arent stiff enough. FWIW, I run my et drags without tubes and did the dishsoap trick to them, they dont leak at all.

Ryan

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

28x10.5x15 Hoosier slicks would get my vote. I (will) run them, with tubes, and for now w/out rim screws. I ran MT ET Streets with tubes sans screws and had great luck with them. If you prep the tire/tube correctly, the tire and tube will move independent of each other, and not rip off the valve stem (if it moves).

Great choice in tire for M6 and autos with t-brake.

BrianSF-GA

I am in the same boat as you & have searched as well ... RT-S's are on the way and now I have to decide on slicks. I found a pair of 28/10.5 M/T Drags for a great price with lots of life left locally, but they are NOT S's (stiff wall). I have read S's is what one wants for an M6. I am thinking about trying them and am undecided about tubes and screwing. The "locals" are running these without screws and tubes well into the 5's (1/8-mile).

I imagine you make way less than 556 rwhp na and you didn't mention rwt numbers. I suspect you are not going to spray out of the hole or at least you have the option not to. Mine will see 500 ft.lbs. at 4600 ... that's right from the launch!

BrianSF-GA

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-et-drags.html

What did you end up going with??

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

FYI Hoosier doesnt make a 28X10.5 QTP. You need to order a 28x11.5. I had them on my car when it was a T56 and if I did it again I would run a tube to stiffen the side wall. My car would almost bounce the rim off the ground without tubes.
Hope that helps ya a bit.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Nothing yet man.. still have to get some rear wheels. I am thinking about just going with the ET drags stiff wall to start with, unless I can find the QTPs for real cheap.

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

the qtp seems to be stiffer then normal slicks i love them and the have a 27in if it would help over the 28. the 28 11.5 is not a true 11.5 remember when they do sizes for the DOT tires it's section width not tread width like slicks, so the 11.5 qtp is smaller then the 10.5 slick.

BrianSF-GA

That is sure what I would want to run or even a Hoosier stiff wall, but at $100 for a pair of hardly run 28/10.5's regular ET Drags locally, I just might have to try them.

By the way, did you try Atlanta Chassis Dyno for the RTS's?

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Yessir I seriously considered getting some. I appreciate the link. Then I talked myself into not getting them. I already have 2 new sets of wheels waiting at the house right now, Fikse and Street Lites. I couldn't convince myself I needed 3 sets lol. I think I will be getting the 15 x 10 Street Lites though for the rears for track days, as I got the 17 x 7 and 17 x 11 for street driving.

I'd give those MT Drags local to you a try but I would definitely run a tube with them since they are not stiff wall. You don't want that wheel bouncing off the ground!

BrianSF-GA

You do realize that a pair of f-body specific Streetlites will almost cost you the same as the RTS deal (within $150+/-) and the 7" rim width/tire combo is not going to help in lightening the front end ... just a thought. Then again, another set of tire will set you back some $$$.

I also thought about running the tubes with the "local slicks", but the tubes themselves will be $150 and I will have to screw the wheels. I am thinking that would hurt me in a de-mod sale for the RTS's.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

My rear end is narrowed so the Fbody specific version wouldn't work anyways. They only make those with 7.5 bs

How do you figure the 17 x 7 will not lighten the front end any? My 17 x 9.5 ZR1s with tires weigh 47 lbs. 47 x 2 = 94lbs for those. The 17 x 7s are 17.5 lbs I believe and tires are 20-21. 37 x 2 = 74 lbs, 15-20 lbs weight savings?

I am already in contact with a guy for a used set with tires for 15" Street Lites, then I will just sell these 17" ones.

BrianSF-GA

Yea, if you are narrowed, the fbody specifics obviously wouldn't work. Wouldn't you still have to grind the calipers and run a spacer with regular Street Lites ... do the barrels of the regular Street Lites fit over the "big" brakes with less backspace or are you running other calipers? I have no experience with Streetlites other than what I have read. If you already know, educate me.

I was referring to 15" skinnies/front runners being lighter than the 17x7's and whatever tire you're running with them (225/45??? would be about 25#) and not comparing your Streetlites to the ZR1's. 11.7# each for the RTS skinnies for the medium pad height and 12# each for the front runners .... about 40# savings with the RTS's over the Street Lites. That was my only point.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

I'm running stock brakes. The only thing I've heard and read is that the rears require a little grinding to fit over the stock calipers, nothing about the fronts not fitting. I have no experience with any other wheels other than my ZR1s and Race Star Industries so we will see what happens when I get them.