StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

The car used to have poly lca bushings and I set pinion angle at -2.5 degrees.
I switched to rod end style lca's and added a anti roll bar on the rear. the front of the tq arm is still poly with BMR cross member mount/tranny crossmember.

I would think the rod ends have no give and my rear end would have less axle wrap under acceleration now. so maybe I need -1 or -2 degrees pinion angle. Any ideas? should I even change it?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I wouldn't run any more then -1.5 with what you have now, if you upgrade to a rod ended tq arm setup then you can get away with even less.

SSPerformance

iTrader: (76)

mine is negative 2.5 no issues here 1.26 60s

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Just for referance how do you measure pinion angle? Couple differnet ways will result in different #'s...

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

I put the car on a 4 post drive on lift. then measure the driveshaft angle with my angle finder and write that down. then measure the bottom of my 12 bolt case on the TQ arm bracket and write that angle down and add the 2 together. I have a BMR TQ arm and the BMR how to video shows it that way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAQgLbhQ0uk

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Not how I do it, but that's fine. Just be consistant with whatever you do.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

What's the best way to do this without a lift? Car sits too low to get a gauge under on the ground. Mines still set from the 6speed days

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

Using wheel ramps under all 4 tires will work

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

whats the recommended pinion angle when the entire suspension is all rod ends, including the Torque arm?

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

We run -2 pinion angle off the pinion on the rear end only. We don't worry about driveline angle. Just throwing that out there for the extra info.

We use this same set-up on all of our cars we scale and square and that seems to be the winning combination for us. There are a few different ways to do the pinion angle, and they all seem to work. Our way is just faster, just as accurate, and works as well as the others (if not a little better).

kalebm22

iTrader: (2)

So you don't measeyre anything but the pinion angle as it would set on a level road with full weight on the tires? I'm just tryingto clarify, I may try setting mine up like that too

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The madman way is how I always did mine. Check the ground, make sure it's level, and check the rear end and see where it is compared to the ground.

I did run mine at -1 fwiw and it worked for me.. I tried it at 0, -1, -2, -3 and none of them ever made it any better or worse then the -1 did so I put it back to -1

When the suspension doesn't deflect much it isn't as critical to have the angle in the rear.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

correct. Just like JL said, level ground, level car, full weight on the tires (at ride height) and run the pinion angle on the rear end, only.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

Where do you guys put the angle finder on the rear? The video above uses the rear part of the torque arm

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I usually stick the angle finder on the tq arm bracket just because it's got a nice level surface, which I know is parallel with my pinion gear (checked that, and it should be unless there's something wrong with the housing/tq arm backet)

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

x2 if you can't get the angle finder on the bracket, try the bolt heads (if your bolts are installed from the bottom-up)

Mighty Whitey

Would it work to put a magnetic angle finder on the harmonic balancer, get a reading (example -4) then put it on the t/a mounting surface, or the u joint cap (since they are machined parallel to the joint itself) and take a reading (example: -2). Which would give you downward angle difference of 2*.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Again.. only thing I ever looked at was the pinion angle in relativity to the ground.

Mighty Whitey

That method works fine when trying to make an adjustment from a predetermined setting, but if you're putting on a new torque arm or other suspension part, and you're looking for this general "-2*" setting, you can't use the ground as a reference unless your driveline is parallel to the ground as well.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Wrong.... I set it to -1.5 on everything regardless to any of that and have yet to see any change, on any 4th gen car I've touched.

These are not leaf spring cars and don't need a bunch of pinion angle. If you have rod ended/solid mounted suspension the rear does not deflect.

If you have so much rake in the chassis, that the engine isn't parallel, or pretty close to it then your ride height is jacked up and needs to be fixed....

People get all "pinion angle pinion angle" and it has little to no effect with these cars... only thing you want to adjust it for is to make sure that the u joints aren't getting hammered... more pinion angle you have the more mechanical bind you have in the driveline, that's the only thing that you're trying to do with the pinion angle.. make sure that during the movement of the suspension the u joints stay as close to strait as you can get them. That's it.