Stripper build wiring help.
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Stripper build wiring help. So I've been copying Studderin and some others on my build. Its a lot less expensive stripping than adding HP
. I am having some trouble with wiring. I took the motor and trans out of my convertible and put it in my SS. I swapped the entire wiring harness etc. I just put power to everything and this is what is wrong.
Car will not turn over. Everything turns off inside like its supposed to but the starter isnt getting the signal from the ignition. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Maybe its just me but I seem to remember that when you put the key in the ignition you hear a chime (ding ding ding ding) which it does but then when you turn the key to the on position shouldnt it still ding but slower and only a few times?
Grounds are kicking my ***. Everytime I turn around there is an eyelet that needs to be grounded. I have the grounds on the back of the head on, the thick ground that is on the block, the smaller strap that is on the block and all the gounds under the dash and the two that sit on the rad. support. Where else are there grounds? Anyone have a diagram?
Thanks for the advice guys. I hate asking questions like this but I hate wiring and im trying to hurry up and be done with it, the correct way.
. I am having some trouble with wiring. I took the motor and trans out of my convertible and put it in my SS. I swapped the entire wiring harness etc. I just put power to everything and this is what is wrong. Car will not turn over. Everything turns off inside like its supposed to but the starter isnt getting the signal from the ignition. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Maybe its just me but I seem to remember that when you put the key in the ignition you hear a chime (ding ding ding ding) which it does but then when you turn the key to the on position shouldnt it still ding but slower and only a few times?
Grounds are kicking my ***. Everytime I turn around there is an eyelet that needs to be grounded. I have the grounds on the back of the head on, the thick ground that is on the block, the smaller strap that is on the block and all the gounds under the dash and the two that sit on the rad. support. Where else are there grounds? Anyone have a diagram?
Thanks for the advice guys. I hate asking questions like this but I hate wiring and im trying to hurry up and be done with it, the correct way.
You don't have power at the small wire on the starter when trying to turn over? Could be a bcm/vats issue but since you already mentioned having issues with grounds, take your time and check it all. You can get all the advice you want on here but you have to do the legwork. After going over it all, post back up with what is still wrong.
Is the security light coming on then shutting off? Was this a motor swap from one car to another? Different computers?
Is the security light coming on then shutting off? Was this a motor swap from one car to another? Different computers?
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From: Olive Branch, MS
You don't have power at the small wire on the starter when trying to turn over? Could be a bcm/vats issue but since you already mentioned having issues with grounds, take your time and check it all. You can get all the advice you want on here but you have to do the legwork. After going over it all, post back up with what is still wrong.
Is the security light coming on then shutting off? Was this a motor swap from one car to another? Different computers?
Is the security light coming on then shutting off? Was this a motor swap from one car to another? Different computers?
The computer and complete wiring harness came out of the same car. I have checked and double checked my grounds. I have all the wires I can find grounded.
This is a motor swap from one car to another but like I said, the wiring harness/computer are from the same car. Basically I had a shell of a car and a running car. I swapped everything over to the shell to make it a running car.
Are you using the Body Control Module and PCM from the same car? If so then you will need to do a VATS relink. If not hen I would try swapping the starter crank relay with another relay and see if that gets you anywhere.
Let me see if I can help. There's a 15 amp fuse in your underhood #2 fusebox. It's label STRTR. Check that fuse first. The wire off that fuse goes to your PNP switch at the shifter (if auto). You should have two wires at the PNP switch ( a purple/white, and a
DK green). I believe the purple/white wire comes from that fuse, the dk green goes to your start relay coil in the same fusebox. That is the hot that feeds the hot side of the coil. That completes your hot wire circuit. See if you got 12 volts at the coil.
The ground on the coil is pull in by the BCM ( yellow/black wire). After the BCM is satified with the resistor in your key.
If you got 12v at the coil, then the BCM is not sending a ground out to the coil.
On the relay 85 and 86 are your coil. 30 and 87 are your contacts. 30 should be hot at all times. 87 goes to your starter (big purple wire).
I hope this helps.
PM me if you have more questions.
DK green). I believe the purple/white wire comes from that fuse, the dk green goes to your start relay coil in the same fusebox. That is the hot that feeds the hot side of the coil. That completes your hot wire circuit. See if you got 12 volts at the coil.
The ground on the coil is pull in by the BCM ( yellow/black wire). After the BCM is satified with the resistor in your key.
If you got 12v at the coil, then the BCM is not sending a ground out to the coil.
On the relay 85 and 86 are your coil. 30 and 87 are your contacts. 30 should be hot at all times. 87 goes to your starter (big purple wire).
I hope this helps.
PM me if you have more questions.
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Did you take all the loom off then you changed the harness over, There a little ground strap that near the alt. That would go to the block, kinda under the motor mount. To the frame, above were the swaybar brackets go.
The vats and bcm most of the time starts the car, then it stalls, but should crank at least. If its not even cranking I the motor isn;t grounded. Add another ground just to be sure. You didnt paint this engine bay and not clean the paint off the grounds or anything like that? Key on, dose the fuel pump come on, scan it and see if you have TPS or any engine signals. I bet the engine harness is dead.\
oh btw, the fuel pump ground is the one near the drive seat, in front outside of it. Its ties in with some other **** around there, the seat belts, the seat motors. ect. So if you removed all that, you can shorten it up and move it back near the tank from the spot there. .000004 lighter, the short FP ground mod
The vats and bcm most of the time starts the car, then it stalls, but should crank at least. If its not even cranking I the motor isn;t grounded. Add another ground just to be sure. You didnt paint this engine bay and not clean the paint off the grounds or anything like that? Key on, dose the fuel pump come on, scan it and see if you have TPS or any engine signals. I bet the engine harness is dead.\
oh btw, the fuel pump ground is the one near the drive seat, in front outside of it. Its ties in with some other **** around there, the seat belts, the seat motors. ect. So if you removed all that, you can shorten it up and move it back near the tank from the spot there. .000004 lighter, the short FP ground mod
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Same steering column, or different? If the VATS module (or bcm on the newer cars) doesn't match up with the resistor in the key, then you're dead in the water.
Personally, I would bypass all that VATS crap anyway. Tune in the computer, and ground the yellow/black starter relay wire to the chassis, and you're done.
Personally, I would bypass all that VATS crap anyway. Tune in the computer, and ground the yellow/black starter relay wire to the chassis, and you're done.
Why not just remove the BCM? Then you don't have to worry about it. I have had the NSS problem when I did my Th350 swap and was wondering why it wouldn't turn over or anything. Not for sure if you plugged it in or not but it is something to check.
Another issue could be the ign sw. You can check it with a volt meter and make sure it's spitting out 12V.
Another issue could be the ign sw. You can check it with a volt meter and make sure it's spitting out 12V.
Thread Starter
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Let me see if I can help. There's a 15 amp fuse in your underhood #2 fusebox. It's label STRTR. Check that fuse first. The wire off that fuse goes to your PNP switch at the shifter (if auto). You should have two wires at the PNP switch ( a purple/white, and a
DK green). I believe the purple/white wire comes from that fuse, the dk green goes to your start relay coil in the same fusebox. That is the hot that feeds the hot side of the coil. That completes your hot wire circuit. See if you got 12 volts at the coil.
The ground on the coil is pull in by the BCM ( yellow/black wire). After the BCM is satified with the resistor in your key.
If you got 12v at the coil, then the BCM is not sending a ground out to the coil.
On the relay 85 and 86 are your coil. 30 and 87 are your contacts. 30 should be hot at all times. 87 goes to your starter (big purple wire).
I hope this helps.
PM me if you have more questions.
DK green). I believe the purple/white wire comes from that fuse, the dk green goes to your start relay coil in the same fusebox. That is the hot that feeds the hot side of the coil. That completes your hot wire circuit. See if you got 12 volts at the coil.
The ground on the coil is pull in by the BCM ( yellow/black wire). After the BCM is satified with the resistor in your key.
If you got 12v at the coil, then the BCM is not sending a ground out to the coil.
On the relay 85 and 86 are your coil. 30 and 87 are your contacts. 30 should be hot at all times. 87 goes to your starter (big purple wire).
I hope this helps.
PM me if you have more questions.
Did you take all the loom off then you changed the harness over, There a little ground strap that near the alt. That would go to the block, kinda under the motor mount.I have this ground and its good. To the frame, above were the swaybar brackets go.
The vats and bcm most of the time starts the car, then it stalls, but should crank at least. If its not even cranking I the motor isn;t grounded.There is a gound on the passenger side of the block to the neg on the battery and the neg on the battery is gounded to the car. Add another ground just to be sure. You didnt paint this engine bay and not clean the paint off the grounds or anything like that? I did paint the engine bay but I did clean up the areas for the gounds to bare metal. I will double check them now Key on, dose the fuel pump come on I will wire that up today and double check it. scan it and see if you have TPS or any engine signals. I bet the engine harness is dead.\ How would I tell if its dead? Wouldnt something else not work if that was the case?
oh btw, the fuel pump ground is the one near the drive seat,Good info, I didnt have that one hooked up. Im doing that now in front outside of it. Its ties in with some other **** around there, the seat belts, the seat motors. ect. So if you removed all that, you can shorten it up and move it back near the tank from the spot there. .000004 lighter, the short FP ground mod
The vats and bcm most of the time starts the car, then it stalls, but should crank at least. If its not even cranking I the motor isn;t grounded.There is a gound on the passenger side of the block to the neg on the battery and the neg on the battery is gounded to the car. Add another ground just to be sure. You didnt paint this engine bay and not clean the paint off the grounds or anything like that? I did paint the engine bay but I did clean up the areas for the gounds to bare metal. I will double check them now Key on, dose the fuel pump come on I will wire that up today and double check it. scan it and see if you have TPS or any engine signals. I bet the engine harness is dead.\ How would I tell if its dead? Wouldnt something else not work if that was the case?
oh btw, the fuel pump ground is the one near the drive seat,Good info, I didnt have that one hooked up. Im doing that now in front outside of it. Its ties in with some other **** around there, the seat belts, the seat motors. ect. So if you removed all that, you can shorten it up and move it back near the tank from the spot there. .000004 lighter, the short FP ground mod
Same steering column, or different?Same steering column If the VATS module (or bcm on the newer cars) doesn't match up with the resistor in the key, then you're dead in the water. Same key that matches the steering column, BCM and PCM
Personally, I would bypass all that VATS crap anyway. Tune in the computer, and ground the yellow/black starter relay wire to the chassis, and you're done.
Personally, I would bypass all that VATS crap anyway. Tune in the computer, and ground the yellow/black starter relay wire to the chassis, and you're done.
Why not just remove the BCM? Then you don't have to worry about it. I have had the NSS problem when I did my Th350 swap and was wondering why it wouldn't turn over or anything. Not for sure if you plugged it in or not but it is something to check. I will check this today as well
Another issue could be the ign sw. You can check it with a volt meter and make sure it's spitting out 12V.
Another issue could be the ign sw. You can check it with a volt meter and make sure it's spitting out 12V.
Im going out to check all of this stuff. I will let you guys know what I find in a little while. Also, dont take the bold red the wrong way lol. Just wanted to make sure all of my answers can be seen so there is no confusion lol. Thanks fellas for all the help. It is greatly appreciated.
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Ok I checked all my grounds and they are all good. I think Ive found my starting issue. I had a shop do a auto to manual swap for me as part of a deal I struck up with them. They made a makeshift neutral saftey switch on the clutch so that the clutch has to be depressed for the starter to engauge. All I can find are just 2 wires and I traced them from the switch on the clutch to the trans. I think im missing a wire here.... There has to be a wire to let the computer the clutch is depressed right? Anyone have an idea of where I can find this wire?
Yes, when I did my a4-m6 swap. Some wires run to the clutch depress sw that allows the starter to engage. My car is like that, if you don't have clutch pushed in nothing will happen. No matter if its in neutral or not.
Glad you found the problem.
Yeah, I'm in the process of race car wiring only right now. I know just about every wire on this car. Right now my car only has the fuel pump wires and tail lts wires, that run from the drivers dash to the rear of the car. About 17 of them and some of them are coming out.
Yeah, I'm in the process of race car wiring only right now. I know just about every wire on this car. Right now my car only has the fuel pump wires and tail lts wires, that run from the drivers dash to the rear of the car. About 17 of them and some of them are coming out.
