Drag Bar ripped from frame. OOPS!!
03-07-2012, 08:19 PM
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Drag Bar ripped from frame. OOPS!! I guess it wasn't welded good enough or not in the right place.
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Added a little extra material. Hope it stays now.
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[/IMG]Added a little extra material. Hope it stays now.
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Kinda!!
03-08-2012, 07:06 AM
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Its a MWC bar.
It was hard to get to the inside of the bracket to weld. So only thee sides were welded. This was on a 4500 launch, wheel hopped twice and broke. May have happened just as the nitrous came on too.
It was hard to get to the inside of the bracket to weld. So only thee sides were welded. This was on a 4500 launch, wheel hopped twice and broke. May have happened just as the nitrous came on too.
Nice carnage! Trending Topics
03-08-2012, 08:34 PM
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It ripped the top layer off the frame all the way around the outside of the weld. I didn't know there where different layers until now. The metal you can see is the next layer!!!
03-19-2012, 06:44 PM
#16
I put a plate on the frame rails there where the tabs for my wolfe went on, probably a good thing now after seeing that!
But, the weld didn't penetrate thru the first layer into the 2nd, from the look of that the first weld didn't have enough heat in it, if ya had cranked the welder up another power setting or 2, and it probably wouldn't have happened. Even if you had to stitch weld it, it would have been better off that way.
But, the weld didn't penetrate thru the first layer into the 2nd, from the look of that the first weld didn't have enough heat in it, if ya had cranked the welder up another power setting or 2, and it probably wouldn't have happened. Even if you had to stitch weld it, it would have been better off that way.
03-19-2012, 07:46 PM
#17
I put a plate on the frame rails there where the tabs for my wolfe went on, probably a good thing now after seeing that!
But, the weld didn't penetrate thru the first layer into the 2nd, from the look of that the first weld didn't have enough heat in it, if ya had cranked the welder up another power setting or 2, and it probably wouldn't have happened. Even if you had to stitch weld it, it would have been better off that way.
But, the weld didn't penetrate thru the first layer into the 2nd, from the look of that the first weld didn't have enough heat in it, if ya had cranked the welder up another power setting or 2, and it probably wouldn't have happened. Even if you had to stitch weld it, it would have been better off that way.
You can just weld the taps to a plate ans weld them on, but you if you get the the under coating off you can see the edges of the spot welded layers you want to weld up, and down that area.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...Picture022.jpg
What kind of welder do you have you can turn it up 2 setting and weld behind stuff? And not just bast thu the ends of sheet metal. I need to get one of those.
03-20-2012, 04:27 AM
#18
Pal my junks going to be running soon enough, I want to see you build a 25.3 car with bottom 7 second capability on a working mans budget.....Take you a while to do it as well without whacking a credit card.
Wolfe supplied a set of similar tabs with their anti rollbar, which were deemed not strong enough when the bar went on, so a set of plates about 3in by 2 in we're weed to the frame.... Total contact was about 500% more then the tabs would provide, and we drilled 1/4 inch holes in the plates, and in the body, and filled the holes. Back up with weld. If the proper heat was used, there would have been better penetration thru to the 2 nd layer as well, can be done with any adjustable mig. I wouldn't call that blowing thru the metal if you are making a solid joint with multiple layers of material.
Wolfe supplied a set of similar tabs with their anti rollbar, which were deemed not strong enough when the bar went on, so a set of plates about 3in by 2 in we're weed to the frame.... Total contact was about 500% more then the tabs would provide, and we drilled 1/4 inch holes in the plates, and in the body, and filled the holes. Back up with weld. If the proper heat was used, there would have been better penetration thru to the 2 nd layer as well, can be done with any adjustable mig. I wouldn't call that blowing thru the metal if you are making a solid joint with multiple layers of material.
Last edited by JL ws-6; 03-20-2012 at 04:44 AM.
03-20-2012, 11:37 AM
#20
Before someone jumps all over that, roll cage work I have done for a reason.... That's my life if there's a bad crash and it fails. I leave that to a pro, pictures coming soon, the tubing is going in the car right now.... Rear frame needed a lot of notching to fit the tires and pull them in where I wanted them. 6 inches off both tubes, to give a rough idea for those that have done it.
