I'm currently staging shallow holding at 23ish rpm and cut 1.61 60'. Lights vary from 20-50. What kind of difference would I make stalling up to 25ish rpm if I can hold it? Also what else could I do to improve, bump in a little deeper?

 

Rpm bump is worth a little in rt, also can play with front tire pressure (I've found each pound can be ~.005 in reaction time on my car, and each 100 rpm is about .01). You can bump in as well, but it has to be a consistent bump; after all when you bump in, the rollout becomes less and while your rt improves, your e.t. suffers.

Derek

 

May try to bump in 1 extra time and stall up another 200 after staging. If I start cutting red lights i'll go back to old routine. RIght now i've got it done where I can bump in shallow, but can't get any quicker on the lights. Goal is to get in the teens consistently.

 

I would play with air pressure on the tires before I would change the staging procedure. Your range of 20s to 50s is a pretty wide range if you want to get into the teens consistently. You have a 30ish delta and that can get you red pretty quickly if you don't stage the car shallow and consistently.

Bumping the rear tire pressure has a greater affect than changing the front tire pressure in my experience. I do both, plus I will alter my RPMs as necessary.

Depending on how tight the lights are, I can find myself leaving at 4,000 RPM with 40 in the front and 25 in the rear. That was putting me in the teens and double O's at Topeka. The day before I was at 3,800 RPM 35 in the front and 24 in the rear. I was high 20's and low 30's all day.

I hope that helps.

 

Sure does. Thanks!

 

There is no way that one pound of air pressure in the front tires can cause a reaction time pick up of .005. I have found that switching from 28" to 26" front tires picked me up about .01. A pound of air is not going to deform the tire enough to cause that much of an increase in RT.

If you throw 10 pounds in the front you MIGHT see .005-.007.

I think that your estimation on RPM is a little high to, but that is effected much more by car setup and converter so in your case it may hold true.

OP, with your 60', going off the bottom bulb, I would find it very hard to believe you aren't anticipating the last yellow. Try deep staging if you want consistent reaction times. See the bulb and go. This will cost you approximately .1 in ET, but assuming you are bracket racing, that is a moot point.

 

Hey Brother, are you bracket racin?

Coach

 

I havent been to the track in a few years but used to race my w bodies a lot and ran consistent .03x reactions on a .000 digital tree .

some good tricks mentioned above , one not mentioned I found helpful was to realize there are 3 stages to every bulb on the tree , lighting up , lit , and shutting off

if your too slow watching say the 3rd yellow light with your current staging procedure instead key on the 2nd yellow shutting off which happens a split second before the 3rd yellow lights up , it takes a lot of discipline to leave on a light going off though since your keying/watching that light you may tend to jump when it lights which will give you a red light you gotta be patient enough to watch it go out

this works awesome on the street too - hit when your red goes out by the time you move the green will be lit but keep an eye out for the guy running the redlight just like you would 10 seconds later -always gotta look out for the other guy , again I am talking split second so its just as safe as leaving on the green as long as you pay attention like you should on the green as well , this is good practice for keying on a light going out to be used to doing it at the track , when I see someone creeping looking at the lights changing on the sides at a 4 way I know they are toast lol - its a good trick

to be used only in Mexico lol

 

Okay, You're right. I just made that up. How many pages of logbook over 15 years of racing would you like me to send you to prove it?

Notice that I said "on my car;" what works for one vehicle might not have the EXACT same effect on another.

But since there's no way it could happen, why am I arguing the point?

 

Yes sir...

 

Can you please explain the physics of how that could be even remotely possible?

I know people who have bracket raced for 20 years and still believe driving the stripe is stupid. That doesn't mean it's correct.

I don't post on these forums often, but when I see misinformation I am going to do my best to try and correct it.

I can understand the "on my car" thing about the launch RPM. Your car may be more sensitive to RPM changes than mine. That is perfectly believable. But I don't think there is any car in exsistence that will pick up .005 in RT from 1 pound of air.

 

This is also untrue for 99% of tracks out there nowadays. Almost every track now uses LED bulbs which are instant on/off. The third yellow comes on at the exact same time the second yellow goes out. With the old incandescent bulbs that were used, what you are saying held true but it is more or less a thing of the past now.

 

First, if you know anyone that thinks driving the stripe is stupid, please send them to Florida!!

Again, on certain vehicles/tires/front end weights it's going to make more of a difference than others, but I can see a noticeable difference in my front tire's squash between 30 PSI and 25 psi.

The only thing I can find to somewhat back up my statement is the following from Mr. Dirt, a.k.a. Bret Kepner, who penned many an article for Super Stock and Drag Illustrated magazine on successful bracket racing: http://www.caranddriver.com/features...-3?redirect=no