Staging question
Derek
Bumping the rear tire pressure has a greater affect than changing the front tire pressure in my experience. I do both, plus I will alter my RPMs as necessary.
Depending on how tight the lights are, I can find myself leaving at 4,000 RPM with 40 in the front and 25 in the rear. That was putting me in the teens and double O's at Topeka. The day before I was at 3,800 RPM 35 in the front and 24 in the rear. I was high 20's and low 30's all day.
I hope that helps.
Bumping the rear tire pressure has a greater affect than changing the front tire pressure in my experience. I do both, plus I will alter my RPMs as necessary.
Depending on how tight the lights are, I can find myself leaving at 4,000 RPM with 40 in the front and 25 in the rear. That was putting me in the teens and double O's at Topeka. The day before I was at 3,800 RPM 35 in the front and 24 in the rear. I was high 20's and low 30's all day.
I hope that helps.
Derek
If you throw 10 pounds in the front you MIGHT see .005-.007.
I think that your estimation on RPM is a little high to, but that is effected much more by car setup and converter so in your case it may hold true.
OP, with your 60', going off the bottom bulb, I would find it very hard to believe you aren't anticipating the last yellow. Try deep staging if you want consistent reaction times. See the bulb and go. This will cost you approximately .1 in ET, but assuming you are bracket racing, that is a moot point.
Coach
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some good tricks mentioned above , one not mentioned I found helpful was to realize there are 3 stages to every bulb on the tree , lighting up , lit , and shutting off
if your too slow watching say the 3rd yellow light with your current staging procedure instead key on the 2nd yellow shutting off which happens a split second before the 3rd yellow lights up , it takes a lot of discipline to leave on a light going off though since your keying/watching that light you may tend to jump when it lights which will give you a red light you gotta be patient enough to watch it go out
this works awesome on the street too - hit when your red goes out by the time you move the green will be lit but keep an eye out for the guy running the redlight just like you would 10 seconds later -always gotta look out for the other guy , again I am talking split second so its just as safe as leaving on the green as long as you pay attention like you should on the green as well , this is good practice for keying on a light going out to be used to doing it at the track , when I see someone creeping looking at the lights changing on the sides at a 4 way I know they are toast lol - its a good trick
to be used only in Mexico lol
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Notice that I said "on my car;" what works for one vehicle might not have the EXACT same effect on another.
But since there's no way it could happen, why am I arguing the point?
Notice that I said "on my car;" what works for one vehicle might not have the EXACT same effect on another.
But since there's no way it could happen, why am I arguing the point?
I know people who have bracket raced for 20 years and still believe driving the stripe is stupid. That doesn't mean it's correct.
I don't post on these forums often, but when I see misinformation I am going to do my best to try and correct it.
I can understand the "on my car" thing about the launch RPM. Your car may be more sensitive to RPM changes than mine. That is perfectly believable. But I don't think there is any car in exsistence that will pick up .005 in RT from 1 pound of air.
I know people who have bracket raced for 20 years and still believe driving the stripe is stupid. That doesn't mean it's correct.
I don't post on these forums often, but when I see misinformation I am going to do my best to try and correct it.
I can understand the "on my car" thing about the launch RPM. Your car may be more sensitive to RPM changes than mine. That is perfectly believable. But I don't think there is any car in exsistence that will pick up .005 in RT from 1 pound of air.
Again, on certain vehicles/tires/front end weights it's going to make more of a difference than others, but I can see a noticeable difference in my front tire's squash between 30 PSI and 25 psi.
The only thing I can find to somewhat back up my statement is the following from Mr. Dirt, a.k.a. Bret Kepner, who penned many an article for Super Stock and Drag Illustrated magazine on successful bracket racing: http://www.caranddriver.com/features...-3?redirect=no



