Can't hook with Koni's...
Can't hook with Koni's... Ok so I have a serious problem getting my car to hook at the track. It's an 02 Z28 with a cam and exhaust making 390/350 to the wheels. It's an M6 car and I have 3.90's in the rear(10 bolt), and I'm running some toyo proxes tq in the 315/35/17 variety. Last time at the track my best was a neck snapping 13.33 @ 113 with a 2.4 60'...
I'm sure 90% of that is driver mod, but from the reading I've done my current suspension is all wrong for the 1/4 mile. As of right now I have:
Strano lowering Springs
Koni SA shocks (no idea what they're set to)
MWC adjustable LCA's and PHB (with rod ends)
Stock T/A
LCA relo brackets
Everything I've read on here dictates the Koni's to be road race oriented? Is it possible my settings are just way off for what I'm trying to do or should I sell these off and get something more straight line suited? I wouldn't mind going back to stock ride height either. The springs/shocks were on the car when I bought it and I was told the previous owner that installed them was using it for AutoX. Thanks for any help you guys might have,
Eric
I'm sure 90% of that is driver mod, but from the reading I've done my current suspension is all wrong for the 1/4 mile. As of right now I have:
Strano lowering Springs
Koni SA shocks (no idea what they're set to)
MWC adjustable LCA's and PHB (with rod ends)
Stock T/A
LCA relo brackets
Everything I've read on here dictates the Koni's to be road race oriented? Is it possible my settings are just way off for what I'm trying to do or should I sell these off and get something more straight line suited? I wouldn't mind going back to stock ride height either. The springs/shocks were on the car when I bought it and I was told the previous owner that installed them was using it for AutoX. Thanks for any help you guys might have,
Eric
2.4 60 yes agree with him ^ you need tires first.
I witnessed the previous owner of my m6 car which is also a strano /koni car with only a hotchkis PHB for additional suspension mods make 3 passes stock internals /trans/342 10 bolt/ most bolt ons , all in the 11.9's on street tires not dr's(has dr's now) I would have to go back through e mails to tell you what the rubber was exactly but he was in the 1.75 60 foot range - granted he knew how to drive it to run 3 passes 11.95 , 11.97 ,11.99.
This was on a street night where the track prep is usually attrocious , I was there with a v6 sc w body I was running 12.2's in that night and ended up buying the car about 6 months later lol
I have never tried to repeat his times because the car has developed a shifting issue at high rpm but I had asked him what rpm he launched at and 3800 was the number if that helps your situation any.... strano/koni combo is not your issue lol
I witnessed the previous owner of my m6 car which is also a strano /koni car with only a hotchkis PHB for additional suspension mods make 3 passes stock internals /trans/342 10 bolt/ most bolt ons , all in the 11.9's on street tires not dr's(has dr's now) I would have to go back through e mails to tell you what the rubber was exactly but he was in the 1.75 60 foot range - granted he knew how to drive it to run 3 passes 11.95 , 11.97 ,11.99.
This was on a street night where the track prep is usually attrocious , I was there with a v6 sc w body I was running 12.2's in that night and ended up buying the car about 6 months later lol
I have never tried to repeat his times because the car has developed a shifting issue at high rpm but I had asked him what rpm he launched at and 3800 was the number if that helps your situation any.... strano/koni combo is not your issue lol
It's gotta be the Koni's fault 
What are the shocks set on?
What are the front and rear tire pressures?
What condition are the tires in?
What rpm are you leaving at?
What are the rest of your times through the 1/4?
Did you verify your LCA's and TQ Arm are set correctly?
What are the shocks set on?
What are the front and rear tire pressures?
What condition are the tires in?
What rpm are you leaving at?
What are the rest of your times through the 1/4?
Did you verify your LCA's and TQ Arm are set correctly?
Fronts were at ~25 rears at 17. Fronts are Nt05 275/40/17's if that makes a difference.
The rear tires are in good condition, got them this spring. Not that worn really except for the centers slightly.
Usually leave around 2k. I've got a line lock that I'm gonna throw in soon too, I'm thinking I'm not getting these tires hot enough either.
60' 2.378
330 6.074
1/8 8.936
mph 88.76
1000' 11.342
1/4 13.333
mph 113.42
LCA's are in the bottom hole of a founder's performance relo bracket, and the torque arm I have no idea, it's stock so I don't think there's anything I can do with that anyway.
Thanks for the help, everyone's gotta start somewhere...
I run konis and stranos and I would probaly agree they are not the BEST for drag racing, they are still better than anythign stock. rear strano springs are only about 10 pounds stiffer than stock so they will squat. Konis are fully adjustable just set them to the SOFTEST setting so they will squat. I cut 2.0s consistantly on street tires and at my HP lvl that wont to bad considering I still have a stock swaybar. on slicks I got a 1.7 but i was still learning them and can probably get down to a 1.6.
theres no reason you shouldnt know what your rear konis are set to, just put the rear seat down and look, and then adjust them to softest setting till they stop.
fronts I dont think are as important mine are set pretty firm and I leave them that way so the front end wont come up and then drop taking the weight off the rear
fronts I dont think are as important mine are set pretty firm and I leave them that way so the front end wont come up and then drop taking the weight off the rear
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My car is a h/c/i m6 with konis/stranos. I finally made it back to the track for the first time in two years and i was cutting 2.0 60ft all day. I know that is not great but i still need to dial down my launch, but i unhooked the front sway bar and set the rebound to full soft on the front and full stiff in the rear and at a 4000rpm launch off of the 2-step it bogged the car down. This was with m/t drag radials.
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Verdad Gallardo front tires are too low. I also have NT05's and I run them normally at 30psi in the front. Air yours up to 40 for less roll resistence. set the front shocks to 4 turns from full hard, set the rears to full soft. make sure the LCA is horizontal. middle of the rear tires are going bald? what about the fronts? the rears were probably ran with too much air for too long. those tires may suck with your power level. keep dropping 2psi until you bog then go up 1psi. but 17psi already you dont want to go too low.
with a trap speed of 113mph you should be crossing the line at 12.6-8
with a trap speed of 113mph you should be crossing the line at 12.6-8
I have koni's and i was cutting 1.7's at the track the other day. The NTO5R's were hooking! I started with lowering the air pressure on the tires to 18psi and 1.5 turns to the firm side though, with that i rev'd to 2k it bogged and ran a 12.0. Second pass I reved to 3k and ran a 11.7@123.59. Third rev'd it to 3500 they hooked and ran the best of 11.5 @ 125.96 and spanked a ZL1 lol I know I can leave harder and maybe next time. I wish i had a Slick to get my 10 second slip I know its there.
but OP you need a good tire, there is no point in heating them up really cause it might not be making a difference. Im also using a 315/35/17 on a stock Ws6 rim and Im happy.
but OP you need a good tire, there is no point in heating them up really cause it might not be making a difference. Im also using a 315/35/17 on a stock Ws6 rim and Im happy.
I have koni's and i was cutting 1.7's at the track the other day. The NTO5R's were hooking! I started with lowering the air pressure on the tires to 18psi and 1.5 turns to the firm side though, with that i rev'd to 2k it bogged and ran a 12.0. Second pass I reved to 3k and ran a 11.7@123.59. Third rev'd it to 3500 they hooked and ran the best of 11.5 @ 125.96 and spanked a ZL1 lol I know I can leave harder and maybe next time. I wish i had a Slick to get my 10 second slip I know its there.
but OP you need a good tire, there is no point in heating them up really cause it might not be making a difference. Im also using a 315/35/17 on a stock Ws6 rim and Im happy.
but OP you need a good tire, there is no point in heating them up really cause it might not be making a difference. Im also using a 315/35/17 on a stock Ws6 rim and Im happy.
Yes i did jack the thread a little bit but i was refering to stock ZL1 not a modified one.
I have koni's and i was cutting 1.7's at the track the other day. The NTO5R's were hooking! I started with lowering the air pressure on the tires to 18psi and 1.5 turns to the firm side though, with that i rev'd to 2k it bogged and ran a 12.0. Second pass I reved to 3k and ran a 11.7@123.59. Third rev'd it to 3500 they hooked and ran the best of 11.5 @ 125.96 and spanked a ZL1 lol I know I can leave harder and maybe next time. I wish i had a Slick to get my 10 second slip I know its there.
but OP you need a good tire, there is no point in heating them up really cause it might not be making a difference. Im also using a 315/35/17 on a stock Ws6 rim and Im happy.
but OP you need a good tire, there is no point in heating them up really cause it might not be making a difference. Im also using a 315/35/17 on a stock Ws6 rim and Im happy.
Seems everyone is saying go for a better tire, I'm guessing a full slick? ET drags, ET streets or something like that? I've never used bias ply tires before. Once I can get a built rear to handle a hard launch what tire would you guys recommend I start with? I'll need some bias ply's in the front as well to be safe right?
Tires first, then adjust shocks. My car has koni DA's and an M6. 1.54 best short so far on et drags with 430rwhp. And you dont want the rear shocks soft so that it squats. You want them to be stiffer so that the tire pushes into the ground.
What is the main purpose of this car? Are you ever going to AutoX? If not I would off those shocks get some strange singles/doubles or an Afco shock.
You will need a stiff wall slick to hook a m6 car at the track. All depends on how serious you want to get at the track. 1.4xs aren't out of the question just need the right parts. Unhooking or no front swaybar will also help the car weight transfer better too.
You will need a stiff wall slick to hook a m6 car at the track. All depends on how serious you want to get at the track. 1.4xs aren't out of the question just need the right parts. Unhooking or no front swaybar will also help the car weight transfer better too.
This car will only see the track (a lot more next year) and the street. Im also thinking about going back to stock ride height as this thing scrapes way too often.
Forgot to mention its also running strano swaybars in the front and rear. Next time I go race Ill unhook the front swaybar.
Forgot to mention its also running strano swaybars in the front and rear. Next time I go race Ill unhook the front swaybar.
I think a turboed honda can put a hurting on a zl1. Your times are fast but zl1 are way over rated for a car that is almost 600 hp from factory and it doesnt even dip into the 11's. what did super chevy get theirs to run in the issue last month? 12.3-4? with a best 60' of 2.0x or something like that.
Op, sometimes less is more. Just because you have all that throttle does not mean you have to use it on the launch.
Hio, I'd have to agree with you I'm sure my issues are 99% driver related. Maybe next time I go I should have a more experienced driver do a few passes with it and see what they think. I'd like to have my set up dialed in as close to perfect so it'll be a bit easier for me to perfect my own driving skills. Thanks for all the help guys.
