Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

So I have all tubular suspension parts up front and wondering who does and how do you set up a decent base line adjustment before the alignment shop? How far out are your rod ends out of the a-arms top n bottom, where in the slot of the kmember are you putting them at? Can I use angle finder to adjust caster etc?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I aline the car myself. did just what you do to get it to the shop. I dont have a trailor so was going to drive it 12-20 miles to a almine shop. And then noticed I was gettig it withing 1/8 so just finish it. Last time I did just the K with stock arms and rack, I took it to a rack to check. But buddy at the alimine rack said I had it better then 90% of cars that come in, and people send them out. Just had to even the caster or somthing. It just take some time, and make some toe plates, a plum bob, 2 tape measures, (thick ones). 2 front end floater pads (a smooth glossy formica lamite plywood, countertop sink cut out, cut about 10x20, greased) and some tire box/blocks you should have anyway.
My burkhart rack was a pain. had 7/8 toe out unloaded. but changing the endlinks and spacing the rack up got it alot better. start with the upper arms all the way in so the skinnies tuck better. lean the spindle back as much as you can. you should get 6-8*. I think thats the caster, better for high speeds, and the car straitens itself. never get toe out, check it compressed and unloaded. camber I set like 89*. madman posted some specs I use,
sqare the rear end in the car, and center it, then do the front, off that.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

I've got several thousand miles on mine after changing the front end and such...

On the ground by the back wheels, I put blue 1" tape parallel with the tires against them, a 1" gap and another 1" strip (both strips about 1 foot long...). I then set my steering wheel straight.
Next I adjusted both front tie rods such that the front tires pointed to the middle of the gap in the tape on the rear wheels (giving me slight toe-in) so the front tires pointed to the spot about 1.5" on the outside edge of the rear tires... Make sense?

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

I kinda understand. If what I don't understand is why the lower a-arms have adjustable ends on it. The one tube on it is at a angle so if you screw it out it changes your width from eye-to-eye so then it will be too wide to even fit in the kmember. So is it safe to say I can adj the lower a-arms to fit in my kmember and lock them in place then use the slots on the kmember to adj caster?

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

If you don't have the ability to do the adjustment yourself I'd just fit them in the K-member then use the slots for adjustment. However, you or the alignment tech might run out slot adjustment and need to take the control arm out to shorten or lengthen the rod end.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

That's where I get lost. If I screw the ends out more it changes the width between the rod ends so then it just won't fit in the kmember..

98 grmrpr

I just did the exercise on my kframe and a arm. I have a bmr front end, my lower a arm (straight side if u like) runs a poly bush so no other adjustment other than the slot in the kmember. I can wind my heim end (the bent side) all the way out and still get it into the slot on the kframe.

Sure u dont have a mix match in parts?

Basically the straight part works in conjunction with your top a arms to set camber/ caster and the bent arm works with your steering rack to provide toe in and toe out.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

Ok, I haven't really messed with it besides just rough assembly, I'm just going off basic mechanics of how **** works, lol.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

There is no adjustment the lower control arm you have pictured. Caster and Camber adjustments will come from the strut and toe adjustments from the tie rods.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

The front rod end will give you some adjustment. A strut? Is this a Mustang?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

you can use them to center the wheel (bottom of the spindle) in the wheel well, to set your wheel base and stagger. I know what you mean about them binding to get the bolts in Like the rod end spacing is off, that dose happen I noticed and just only set the rod ends so much, then used the slots in my Kmember

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

No mustang, camaro in sig, lol

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

I did mine like duffster did. Except used laser and a few measurments. Have about 25 passes and a few miles. No issues so far.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

I was told by a OG on here to put washers on the bolts and when it's all set up, weld the washers to the kmember or no matter how tight you bolt them down they WILL move. How many of you guys done that?

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

I did.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I'm not an OG but I do that once it's setup. I only had one move in the past and it was on a big wheelie. Racecraft sent me their K-member bare and I just welded the washers on before having it powdercoated. I used silicon bronze wire so if I ever needed to move the washers it won't be bad grinding it off.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I'd just do a tac, I would think the wheel or spindle would break before that moves.

No big wheelies or anything, just little bunny hops for small flat spots in the headers. But do a ton or street driving and bent both my upper Aarms, and had to weld up my burkhart spindles after both main shafts in them ovaled out. Never had the the slots move, just tighten the fawk out of them, with standard wrenchs. 18/21mm on the stock hardware on stock arms in a BMR K. The the bigger standard 3/4 7/8 whatever grade8 hardwear on my racecrafts. With slots and normal gold cad washers on the outside alum spacers on the inside, nyloc nuts. Tac wouldn't be a bad idea to put it back together faster, if you have the lower arms off the K. (I dont really think that happens alot) But could also add time too if you need to make a adjustment for something bending, track repair, hitting a curb, ect.