1LE LT1 drag project build thread
01-20-2013, 08:12 PM
#21
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I will have a 33 spline spool coming out of my 12 bolt to swap to a posi soon. My car is pretty much all street and daily driver these days and it's getting old dragging my tires around every turn in parking lots. It gets me some cool looks though. LOL The 4.10's in mine are louder than any gears I've ever heard so they have to go too, but I'm sticking with the same ratio. I've got all the parts I need except a new ring/pinion.
I'd try sticking with the 4.10's and go with a 28x10.5-S slick. The "S" after the 10.5 is for stiff sidewall. It'll work better with cars over 3,000 lbs. If you go with a 26" slick then you'll probably need to swap to 3.73's. Hopefully you won't run out of track before you run out of rpm when you are spraying. People with more nitrous experience can advise better here.
I'd try sticking with the 4.10's and go with a 28x10.5-S slick. The "S" after the 10.5 is for stiff sidewall. It'll work better with cars over 3,000 lbs. If you go with a 26" slick then you'll probably need to swap to 3.73's. Hopefully you won't run out of track before you run out of rpm when you are spraying. People with more nitrous experience can advise better here.
01-20-2013, 08:17 PM
#23
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I know the 1LE is a performance / stripper style package, but I don't even know what it consists of for 4th gens. I was very familiar with the 3rd gen 1LE's. My 1989 Formula 350 had everything they had except for AC delete, radio delete, and the big front brakes.
What all made up the 1LE to make it so much lighter for 4th gens?
What all made up the 1LE to make it so much lighter for 4th gens?
01-20-2013, 11:05 PM
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I know the 1LE is a performance / stripper style package, but I don't even know what it consists of for 4th gens. I was very familiar with the 3rd gen 1LE's. My 1989 Formula 350 had everything they had except for AC delete, radio delete, and the big front brakes.
What all made up the 1LE to make it so much lighter for 4th gens?
What all made up the 1LE to make it so much lighter for 4th gens?
Crank windows, manual seats, no ac, no fog lights, etc etc.
sorry sold it
01-20-2013, 11:06 PM
#26
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I will have a 33 spline spool coming out of my 12 bolt to swap to a posi soon. My car is pretty much all street and daily driver these days and it's getting old dragging my tires around every turn in parking lots. It gets me some cool looks though. LOL The 4.10's in mine are louder than any gears I've ever heard so they have to go too, but I'm sticking with the same ratio. I've got all the parts I need except a new ring/pinion.
I'd try sticking with the 4.10's and go with a 28x10.5-S slick. The "S" after the 10.5 is for stiff sidewall. It'll work better with cars over 3,000 lbs. If you go with a 26" slick then you'll probably need to swap to 3.73's. Hopefully you won't run out of track before you run out of rpm when you are spraying. People with more nitrous experience can advise better here.
I'd try sticking with the 4.10's and go with a 28x10.5-S slick. The "S" after the 10.5 is for stiff sidewall. It'll work better with cars over 3,000 lbs. If you go with a 26" slick then you'll probably need to swap to 3.73's. Hopefully you won't run out of track before you run out of rpm when you are spraying. People with more nitrous experience can advise better here.
01-20-2013, 11:11 PM
#27
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Also, you might want to think about going from the posi to a full spool since you are going to be drag only. Less rotating weight/bulletproof/always wants to go straight. You can pick one up new cheap....or used even cheaper as long as you know what spline your axles are. Your posi unit will sell for more than enough to pay for the change.
I wish you'd make a duplicate thread over in the LT1 section on here. Plenty of people who are on the same road as you or already there to talk to and learn from.
I wish you'd make a duplicate thread over in the LT1 section on here. Plenty of people who are on the same road as you or already there to talk to and learn from.
What else do I need - I currently have c clips do I need an eliminator kit and new axles?
Ill come check out the lt1 section thanks!
01-21-2013, 12:47 AM
#28
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Are you sure you still have c-clips? All the aftermarket 12 bolts built for our cars I've seen have had bolt in axles with pressed on bearings like 9" Fords. If your axles are retained by c-clips you will need c-clip eliminators or bolt in axles and possibly different housing ends to accomodate them. I'm betting your axles bolt in like a 9".....and like the strange and moser 12 bolts I have.
01-21-2013, 12:43 PM
#29
not having Cclips dosn't really make the axle any weaker, ther no stress on the end past the spines inside whatever diff you have. And if you have disc brakes on the rear, if you do break an axle the caliper over the rotor will keep the axle in the reared on the bearing, and not let the tire damage the car. So you really dosnt need them for what your doing for safty. Even if it's not NHRA legal, for a buget setup to have fun with. You can make a little metal arm on a drum brake that holds the drum on, but only works if you have rim room there. Ive seen that setuo too for super budget stuff to have fun with.
this looks like if could be a fun project, keep it simple
this looks like if could be a fun project, keep it simple
01-21-2013, 08:38 PM
#30
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I mentioned bolt in axles or c-clip eliminators because there is no place to install c-clips with a full spool. I've used c-clip axles with posi units for years in old chevys and only had one axle failure....and that was a 6k rpm clutch dump on stock axles. LOL
Sure a caliper will keep the axle from leaving the rearend with a full spool, c-clip axles, and no c-clips.....but the axles would constantly be pushing out against the brakes while under power or cornering. They shouldn't be able to slip in and out of the spool several hundredths of an inch like that. I wouldn't trust it.
Sure a caliper will keep the axle from leaving the rearend with a full spool, c-clip axles, and no c-clips.....but the axles would constantly be pushing out against the brakes while under power or cornering. They shouldn't be able to slip in and out of the spool several hundredths of an inch like that. I wouldn't trust it.
01-21-2013, 09:43 PM
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I know the 1LE is a performance / stripper style package, but I don't even know what it consists of for 4th gens. I was very familiar with the 3rd gen 1LE's. My 1989 Formula 350 had everything they had except for AC delete, radio delete, and the big front brakes.
What all made up the 1LE to make it so much lighter for 4th gens?
What all made up the 1LE to make it so much lighter for 4th gens?
Some guys do the basic stripping setup...bumper supports, seatbelts and backseats, etc and dont have much of a problem getting down to 3000.
01-22-2013, 05:37 AM
#33
My car is a base 94 z28, and with only free mods for weight reduction and no cutting, I was 3010 still with stock bumper supports, no trimming to wiring, a cat back, and 2 stock front seats, one with power, and salad shooters with street tires, and mild steel suspension. You shouldn't have a problem if you take your time and take advantage of every mod. I think your high race weight right now is what is killing your et. What is your compression ratio?
01-22-2013, 11:20 AM
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If you are interested in used 9 inch bolt in I know where there two for sale one with spool an one posi chuck burkhart sold these guys new rearends an they need to sell there old ones. email me jimmy.turner1968@gmail.com
01-26-2013, 06:12 AM
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Are you sure you still have c-clips? All the aftermarket 12 bolts built for our cars I've seen have had bolt in axles with pressed on bearings like 9" Fords. If your axles are retained by c-clips you will need c-clip eliminators or bolt in axles and possibly different housing ends to accomodate them. I'm betting your axles bolt in like a 9".....and like the strange and moser 12 bolts I have.
My car is a base 94 z28, and with only free mods for weight reduction and no cutting, I was 3010 still with stock bumper supports, no trimming to wiring, a cat back, and 2 stock front seats, one with power, and salad shooters with street tires, and mild steel suspension. You shouldn't have a problem if you take your time and take advantage of every mod. I think your high race weight right now is what is killing your et. What is your compression ratio?
01-26-2013, 06:13 AM
#37
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If you are interested in used 9 inch bolt in I know where there two for sale one with spool an one posi chuck burkhart sold these guys new rearends an they need to sell there old ones. email me jimmy.turner1968@gmail.com
01-26-2013, 06:14 AM
#38
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Yeah! Scored a 33 spline spool for my 12 bolt
while I'm in there I may change gears from the 4.11
I need to estimate my MPH and do some calculations
while I'm in there I may change gears from the 4.11
I need to estimate my MPH and do some calculations
Last edited by Jason94z; 08-09-2015 at 07:19 PM.
01-30-2013, 04:20 PM
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FTI!
I ordered the transmission today. I'm excited. Troy says it should be here in a week or two.
Stage 4 TH400 with a trans brake and rmvb
5500 8" stall, will stall higher on spray
CSI carbon fiber shield
Lokar dipstick
Pan is tapped for temp guage
6an cooler lines
Cooler
The sheild and dipstick blew my budget a bit, so now I need to save for wheels (again).
I ordered the transmission today. I'm excited. Troy says it should be here in a week or two.
Stage 4 TH400 with a trans brake and rmvb
5500 8" stall, will stall higher on spray
CSI carbon fiber shield
Lokar dipstick
Pan is tapped for temp guage
6an cooler lines
Cooler
The sheild and dipstick blew my budget a bit, so now I need to save for wheels (again).