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12:1 CR... What starter?

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Old 03-28-2013 | 01:07 AM
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Default 12:1 CR... What starter?

Just got my 370 build complete.. I took started it several times and put roughly 50 miles on the car since completed.

I did a few small things, installed nitrous, hid some wires, etc... Went to load the car up on the trailer for a tune... No go.
The starter gear shoots out like it is going to start but doesn't turn the motor over.
We took the starter off and put it straight power/ground and it shot out and spun. I don't think this means that the starter is good though??? If it does, it would make me think it was a bad ground/etc somewhere... However, only one ground was removed and I have double checked it, it is good. The battery is also good and was swapped for another one.

What are you high compression guys running for a starter?

The starter that went out (I think) is a CVR? high torque starter. Hasn't been on the car all that long. Have NEVER had an issue out of the starter before this.

Thanks
Old 03-28-2013 | 01:37 AM
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Stock??? What is the voltage at the starter with the start button pushed?
Old 03-28-2013 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown06
Stock??? What is the voltage at the starter with the start button pushed?
CVR high torque starter.

12.5 on the large power that has the nut and IIRC it was .5 on the small one that screws in.
Old 03-28-2013 | 10:25 AM
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I run the stock 15 yr old starter on my 370ci (12:1). Cranks fast and fires right up.
Old 03-28-2013 | 10:48 AM
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A tip for anyone with a built motor/ high compression that turns over hard. If you are running your STOCK f body starter with a short and long bolt please change it. Go to your parts store and get a pickup starter with the 2 long bolts, and an extra long bolt. Cost was $185 total from napa for both ($27 core charge you can get back)

Take my word on this, the stock starter with the short bolt WILL BREAK and bust the mount off your block eventually, I've seen it a number of times. The stock one just isn't strong enough which is why gm quit using them.

Also posted In your other thread, stock pickup starter here 14.2:1 compression
Old 03-28-2013 | 11:37 AM
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I had a CVR (had the solenoid attached to the starter) on my build and experienced nothing but problems. Half the time the starter would just click and not engage the flywheel. Took it off and bought a Powermaster. Got it shimmed properly and used a external Ford style starting solenoid and havent had one problem since.
Old 03-28-2013 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Grr
A tip for anyone with a built motor/ high compression that turns over hard. If you are running your STOCK f body starter with a short and long bolt please change it. Go to your parts store and get a pickup starter with the 2 long bolts, and an extra long bolt. Cost was $185 total from napa for both ($27 core charge you can get back)

Take my word on this, the stock starter with the short bolt WILL BREAK and bust the mount off your block eventually, I've seen it a number of times. The stock one just isn't strong enough which is why gm quit using them.

Also posted In your other thread, stock pickup starter here 14.2:1 compression
Would an iron block have the same issues breaking?
Old 03-28-2013 | 04:33 PM
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14.7 here and no issues with the stock starter on a iron block
Old 03-28-2013 | 05:22 PM
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Ended up buying a reman lifetime starter... IIRC it was a 2003 6.0 truck starter. Nice looking starter, it has the two long bolts as well.

It was 14X-150X$.

Started up the first key turn and sounds better than the other one.

Thanks for the input guys.
Old 03-28-2013 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by subhumanzz
14.7 here and no issues with the stock starter on a iron block
Yes, the starter breaks like this




The truck starter won't break as its way stronger


Old 03-28-2013 | 07:41 PM
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Stock LS3 starter. Looks just like that truck one. Gets the job done at 14.5:1
Old 03-29-2013 | 12:36 PM
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I have a 13 year old stocker on my 13:1 451



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