jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

So long story short is I have been learning and tweaking my car for some time now and I think I am starting to get the hang of suspension and cutting a good 60' but I just need a little more advice to get me to having a well launching car. The best 60' I have cut so far is a 1.61 bogging at the line and spinning a little. It also "bounces" for lack of a better term because of the bog. Here is a run down of my car:

All of the suspension is MWC unless specified

Strange single adjustable:

Front: full soft
Rear: Full Stiff

No front sway bar

Adjustable LCA's (just installed car is pulling to the right at launch) I am assuming I need to adjust them and my tire is just not center in the wheel well. They are in the hole one above the bottom

TQ arm is in the lowest hole. Just checked my pinion angle last night and it was at 3 degrees. I think everyone recommends 2 degrees correct me if I am wrong.

I also have an adjustable panhard bar (just installed with LCA's) but I am not sure how or if any adjustments need to be done to that.

Hoosier QTP Tires at 14 psi warm
4.11 gears with a spool


Some videos from my last test and tune

1.64 60'

Full Speed


Slow Motion



1.69 60'

Full Speed


Slow Motion




Here is a different angle but I do not know how much help this provides.

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

Appears to be doing ALOT of spinning in the first video, are you getting the tires good and hot during the burnout?

Edit: Saw the third video with the burnout, appears to be good enough

When you mention degrees for pinion, are you +2 or -2? I always set mine up negative.

What rear sway bar are you running?

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Factory sway bar. I believe the pinion angle is negative so -3.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Why is the *** of the car pulling to the left so bad? Ever measure your wheel base?

What's the angle of your lca's?

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

The lca's are in the second hole from the bottom. I need to find a good way to make sure my wheels are center since after I put them in. Do you have any suggestions?

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Just run a tape measure from the front of the front wheel to the front of the rear wheel. Is a one man Job done like that.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

somewhere on here there is a write up on how to center everything out back... at least with the pan hard bar. you just tape a piece of string to each rear fender with some type of weight to keep it straight and measure the distance. As for centering it inside the fender well from the side not sure besides just trial and error.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

nice ill get that a shot

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Why are the rear shocks full tight? Start at the mid point, and try either side a couple cliks at a time. Record all the data.
The slo mo vid shows the suspension w/ a hard hit, then immediately unloading, w/ the ft end falling. That's when the spinning starts.
Suggest you plot all the suspension points, and start w/ 1 change at a time.
As for driving crooked, measure the rolling diameter of the tires. Inside of tire[s] aren't rubbing the body, are they?

Some reading material....
http://www.shopeshop.org/contentsDrag.htm

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Can't tell from the video but are your wheels drilled? Have you ever drawn a line on the wheel and tire to see if the rim is spinning in the tire? I tried to look really close and it ALMOST seems like it is in the slo mo video, but I can't be for sure.

edub80

iTrader: (2)

I had same issue..... Move your torque arm to the highest setting then reset your pinion angle to -2 degrees.... You will be surprised at how your 60' will drop...

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

They are not rubbing but I do need to start keeping a journal.

They are not drilled. I have not tried the line trick to see if they are spinning

Where are your lower control arms?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to drill your wheels to make sure they aren't slipping. Just a chalk or white shoe polish mark on the tire at the valve stem will show you if it is moving. Seldom will tires slip unless you are running low air pressures. Radials use enough air you don't see many actually slip. A lot of wheels are drilled & screwed because the owner thinks that is just something you are supposed to do. Tubeless & screws usually = leaks. Don't do it unless you see evidence of slippage. I use 15 psi, and 60' in the mid 1.20s with no screws & no slippage.
Good luck.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I know I got a silver sharpie I am going to mark it with. Just never remembered to do.

edub80

iTrader: (2)

Lca is in middle hole

HeavyMetl

iTrader: (2)

Before I even touched the rear suspension, I'd look at the front. Clearly the nose is dropping quickly causing the rear to unload. Give 'er a few clicks to make it a little more stiff...you might see a slight improvement.

Are you running a good stiff wall slick since your a T56 car?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Drag sway bar is needed. And adjustment of the wheel base. Also 4.30's once you get it hooking.

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

It could need a drag bar. But I would try giving it more anti-squat. It should separate the tire and body and plant the tire. Then I think you could add a little more pressure to the tires.

BarneyMobile

iTrader: (4)

I also agree that he needs a drag swaybar. I also think the OP is hitting the tires with too much speed. The suspenion isn't going to do its job if the tires don't stand a chance hooking. I ran those same tires for awhile. I ran them between 14-15 psi cold and have been 1.40's with the Hoosier QTP's.

I'd move the torque arm up a hole or 2 (re-adjust pinion angle) and add a drag rear swaybar and go from there. Also, I don't know if your front shock are single or double adjustable but if they're single, I'd looking into getting doubles since you're a 6speed car. You may also want to play with your launch rpm and clutch release. Dropping the clutch off the limiter is sometimes too much for the tires.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

What is the purpose over the drag sway bar vs factory sway bar? Just stiffness and rigidity?

Also Im running an MSD 2step set at 6100 currently. I have played around with different rpms. It seems to like right now more rpms vs less but that may change once I get this figured out.

They are single adjustables in the front. I have thought about giving them a few more clicks but everyone seems to say go as soft as you can in the front.