So I'm about done with my 80 swap in my car and I'm curious to see what you guys think it will take to get it to hook HARD!!! Lets start off with current setup cam and carbed sbe with 4.30s and 4500 stall hard hitting converter. Current suspension is all stock up front with deleted front sway bar. As for the rear it has a full adj. rear suspension except shocks.

So here is the kamikaze question, what all more would it take to get a car to hook off a brake on the street (burnout in prep and that's it) obviously good shocks are gonna be in need, but what kind of shocks should I be looking at. Oh almost forgot to mention I'm gonna be running the m/t 275 radial pro. Lets see what you guys think or if its even possible. Just trying to see what kind of shock and spring setups I should be looking at.

 

Bump for the suspension gurus

 

I should be able to let you know some info after this weekend. This will be my first time out on my new setup:

TH400, 3600stall, transbrake, 9 inch with 4.57's, and the 275 MT radial pro

 

Interested in results. Make sure to post in here what you find

 

If you come off a trans brake on a street with no kind of prep or traction aid, it will blow the tires off every time.
My car spins pretty good rolling into the throttle on a street. And that is with a 325 radial.

The best thing to do is roll in to it til it is hooked up and movin good.

 

Launching off a transbrake is like launching an M6 car! You'll need all the susp. pieces frt and rear. As for tires you will probably have to use ET streets or Hoosiers to get traction on the street! Good Luck and keep us posted!! Larry

 

Do you guys think you could launch off a brake using a bias over a radial on the street. Keep in mind there will be SOME prep but not a whole lot.

 

Without the proper prep, no amount of suspension or shock is going to make it hook. It just hits the tire too hard. So it won't be often that u will be able to get any use of your tb on the street. It would need to be a very good prepped concrete area

 

silverls1, the track day went pretty good. I got a new best 60' of 1.63, and also found out bad news at the same time...

Found out the converter I have is actually a 3200stall instead of a 3600. Thanks to the nice and honest members of ls1tech. So I am back to having a power limited launch. The 1.63 sixty was a dead hook off the transbrake launch. Next thing I am doing is sending the converter back to FTI to get it restalled to 4200, no more messing around.

 

He may not of been lying, cars will stal differently depending on how much power your throwing at them. IMO a TB is a headache, even at the track if I put mine at wot, it'll just liquefy the tires. Suspension has to be spot on and bias ply tires would give you the best results.

 

Yeah I am aware of that, just not excited that I have to drop the trans out of my car for about the 911th time. lol

But I think transbrakes work awesome when you pair them with a 2-step. I have one brand new in my office just waiting for when I need it. I will probably need it soon as a 4200 instant hit is pretty serious.

 

They are very helpful for consistency and not having to pay attention to the tach

 

Absolutely. And, you do NOT want bias tires! I have found MT radials to be quickest. Hoosiers are close. Goodyear radials are close to 5 lbs per tire heavier. That on that large of a radius is much worse than just weight in the car. They feel like that hook as hard as the MTs, but are consistently 4 hundredths slower than the MTs.
Bias tires hooking better than radials is over three years out of date.

 

Without full suspension and great tuning though? I said that more with a bandaid connotation

 

Especially the new MT street pro tire, that tire is simply amazing... as alot of really fast LS cars have now found out. lol

 

The new radials hook better than bias tires. Only stick cars (talking regular door cars) use bias tires because they need some wheel speed at launch. Automatic cars need to dead hook, zero wheel slip, bias tires do not do that as well.

 

Hmmm I use Hoosier DRs and couldn't dead hook off the brake. I'd assume stall speed would also play a big roll, 5200 hits the tires pretty hard. I know what you mean about the new DRs being a much better tire. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying its impossible or too hard. Just don't expect out of the box wheel standing performance

 

Your doing it all wrong. You are supposed to use a 2 step and leave WOT at a lower RPM. 5200 is just flat wrong unless you have a 7000 RPM converter. You don't just leave as high as you can. You really need to go to a real NHRA race, not a bracket race, and talk to some small block F body Super Stock guys in the pits or staging lanes.

My converter flashes to 6000/6200 (depending on the track prep and DA), it's quicker leaving at 3000/3600 (depending on the track prep & DA). You are suppose to flash your converter, not leave as high as you can. That kills torque multliplication Unless your just devoid of torque, it will be faster leaving a little lower. Besides it will hook better.

 

Amen!

 

2 step was set at 4,000(FTI recommendation). Again...I'm not trying to argue with you on this, just trying to say a TB isn't going to take you from a .5 to a .2 in the 60ft just by adding it in there. Myself personally I need to rip my SA shocks out and go to DA, which is big bucks and may not justify it over Foot braking it. I'm aware of every car is different and in the end the TB may still shine above all else.


Let me ask you this, does leaving at 3000/3600 on the TB over the FB, in the 60ft?