So I want to use my factory rack opposed to a manual rack. I was told to do it right, oppose to looping lines, is to pull of the freeze-looking plugs off the rack am remove the o-rings off the shaft and reinstall the plugs or weld them shut and this is all that the converting places online does. Anybody do this vs just looping the lines? I don't like the look of looped lines and I like the gear ratio of a factory rack and with skinnies it doesn't bother me.

 

I got my factory rack modified to manual by Rack Doctor

http://shop.rackdoctor.net/CAMARO_c40.htm

I have not used it yet since by build is progressing slowly however other members might chime in on their results.

Mike

 

Thats where I also got mine, works great.

 

Yea that's what I was gonna do but I heard what he does is simple to do and save $200. Ill venture in myself and see what I come up with.

 

Please do. I have my lines looped right now and it would be nice to have a cleaner look.

 

Ill be getting at it real soon. Ill get pics as I go.

 

Subscribing

 

I like that setup. Very nice.

 

That's way cheaper than the flaming river setup that I just got.

 

I have not driven with the rack yet but it turns very smooth with no binding by hand using the steering shaft.

Mike

 

Curious to see how hard it is during tight turns as opposed to looping the lines.

 

I would imagine easier since your not fighting fluid and seal friction.

 

I've got a Rack Doctor's, and it turns nicely on jack stands.
But once it's on the ground, it's alittle hard to turn from a dead stop.
Once you get rolling it's not to bad. Nothing like ps.
But, I do have a small steering wheel and a spool.

 

Sometimes you just gotta tell yourself "it's a race car, not a dd". Personally I don't like the gear ratio in manual racks, I like the ratio in the factory rack. Take the good with the bad.

 

I've never drove an aftermarket manual rack.
So I can't compare the two.
Yeah, that's what I tell myself, " it's a race car ".

 

my buddy had one on his mustang when i drove it and it felt "loose". To make a lane change you needed to turn the wheel almost a half turn vs a 10th with our factory rack. Almost like driving a school bus with really bad tie rods, lol.

 

FWIW I have a madman manual rack and it works great from dead stop to driving. I have skinnies as well.

My other car has a converted manual rack and it works well. I feel them to be about the same.

 

IMO the work involved on one of these is very time consuming. YOU will need a large sized hydraulic jack and many adapters. A welder, snap ring pliers. A lathe or comparable.
Hammers and rubber mallet, A few other odds and ends.
THe main thing is a know how of what to do with common sense.
So 225 for a complete unit with new inner tie rod ends and lifetime warranty is worth it IMO.