What button/switch to use for line lock and where to put it?
That is ALL an automatic car uses them for.
Trans brake cars use only the Trans brake on the starting line.
Foot brake cars use only the foot brake on the starting line.
Surprising how many don't seem to understand the function here.
Stock brakes drag enough, and a realitively low launch RPM, maybe yours sits still.
Low drag brakes, 7500 to 9500+ starting line RPM of race cars, they aren't as likely to just sit there. Stock-style clutches also release cleaner, making them less likely to pull you through the beams. Safe thing to do is set the line lock, and release it when you pick your foot up. That is what most everybody does.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I'm wondering if some here just don't understand how the line lock functions?
It does NOT apply the brakes! When you push the button the solenoid/valve blocks the brake line, so the front brakes don't release when you let off the pedal. Pressure in the front calipers isn't released until you let go of the button.
Once again, pressing the line lock button does NOT apply the brakes.
Last edited by Ed Wright; Dec 29, 2013 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Forgot something....
I'm wondering if some here just don't understand how the line lock functions?
It does NOT apply the brakes! When you push the button the solenoid/valve blocks the brake line, so the front brakes don't release when you let off the pedal. Pressure in the front calipers isn't released until you let go of the button.
Once again, pressing the line lock button does NOT apply the brakes.
HAHAHA - ED, I'm with you. But you're gonna burst a blood vessel buddy! LOL, some people just dont get the idea of how the line-loc was "originally" designed to be used.
How a line-loc is traditionally used [at a track]:
1. Get rear tires in the water box, apply brakes. Hold the "momentary switch" (connected to your line-loc), release the brake pedal, hit the gas to warm up tires. [the car will be held by the line loc "locking" the front brakes only]
2. After your burnout, roll to the staging beams. Break the first beam. Stop. Let the other car break the first beam. Then YOU get into the second beam and stop. The other driver then gets into the second beam and stops.
3. Once you're into the second beam, apply the brakes and hold them. Hit and hold the momentary switch. Release brakes. [once again, the LL solenoid will hold the car]
4. With the momentary switch still depressed, start applying the gas pedal to reach desired "stall RPM".
5. Once staged, and just before the christmas tree hits green, release the "momentary switch" [attached to your LL] to release the front brakes and let the car start to move forward. You'll have a couple of milliseconds before you roll out of the beam.
See below...
There are 2 ways to be "staged": Shallow and Deep.
Shallow - if you're in a shallow stage you are barely into the beam. You have more time to roll forward before you roll out of the beam and "red light".
Deep - If you're in a deep stage, it's the opposite of the shallow stage. You're almost out of the beam and might break the beam a lot sooner than a deep stage. You'll need to release the MS closer to the green light to keep from getting a "red light".
This is why ED is talking about having a momentary switch and not an "on/off" switch. The on/off switch has to be physically flipped to release the LL to go forward. A momentary switch just needs to be "let go of" to get the car going. It's WWWAAAYYY easier to launch with a MS in a comfortable spot, such as on the steering wheel [under your thumb] or in his case, the turn signal switch.
Mine is on my AUTO shifter, but facing the rear of the car so my thumb is holding it and not my twitchy pointer finger.
i'm sure no one cares about this post, but I thought I'd enlighten you all in case some one did want to know how "it's done".
-Mike
I would want it in the front to hold me still in a stick car to make the burn out easier and/or to hold me on the line staged.....easier with 2 feet and 3 pedals








