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What button/switch to use for line lock and where to put it?

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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 10:43 PM
  #21  
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Okay I have a question, my sjm line lock is mounted in my ashtray, if I bought a shift ball with the momentary button built into it and used it would I need to worry about hitting the brakes going down the track and it locking up if I hit the botton going down the track? Does anybody use it from rolling through the beams or juss heating the tires up?
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 12:04 AM
  #22  
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No, pressing the button going down the track does not apply the brakes. You apply the brakes, push & hold the button, take your foot off the pedal, and if the kit is installed correctly the front brakes hold until you release the button. It will not apply the brakes, only prevent releasing the fronts while the button is pressed.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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A lot of automatic foot brake cars use a line lock to hold the car in the burnout box, instead of holding the brakes. Makes it a lot easier to hold the car, and keeps the rear brakes cool.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:40 AM
  #24  
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Think that would be everybody.

That is ALL an automatic car uses them for.

Trans brake cars use only the Trans brake on the starting line.

Foot brake cars use only the foot brake on the starting line.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #25  
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M6 guy here I use the switch mounted on the shifter and hold it with my pinky finger. Use it on for the burnout, also have a actvation switch after the burnout I turn the toggle switch of and the system is dead. Never had a issue with rolling thur the beams. A good brake stomp and car just sits there. Did have a issue with the clutch dragging but diffrent story lol.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 11:28 AM
  #26  
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What could you possibly think would happen if you didn't have that toggle switch to turn the line lock off??

Surprising how many don't seem to understand the function here.

Stock brakes drag enough, and a realitively low launch RPM, maybe yours sits still.
Low drag brakes, 7500 to 9500+ starting line RPM of race cars, they aren't as likely to just sit there. Stock-style clutches also release cleaner, making them less likely to pull you through the beams. Safe thing to do is set the line lock, and release it when you pick your foot up. That is what most everybody does.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #27  
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #28  
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I launch at 6k and it's never rolled, drag brakes in rear and stock brakes up front. Never had a issue with rolling. Just my experience. The toggle switch isn't needed I know. Just how I like it wired.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #29  
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The stock brakes up front are probably saving your butt.

I'm wondering if some here just don't understand how the line lock functions?
It does NOT apply the brakes! When you push the button the solenoid/valve blocks the brake line, so the front brakes don't release when you let off the pedal. Pressure in the front calipers isn't released until you let go of the button.
Once again, pressing the line lock button does NOT apply the brakes.

Last edited by Ed Wright; Dec 29, 2013 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Forgot something....
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 05:58 PM
  #30  
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And that's why they call it a LINE LOCK
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #31  
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No I agree Ed, and don't doubt the front brakes help. Just how I have mine wired.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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Mine is wired thru the cruise control button
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright

I'm wondering if some here just don't understand how the line lock functions?
It does NOT apply the brakes! When you push the button the solenoid/valve blocks the brake line, so the front brakes don't release when you let off the pedal. Pressure in the front calipers isn't released until you let go of the button.
Once again, pressing the line lock button does NOT apply the brakes.

HAHAHA - ED, I'm with you. But you're gonna burst a blood vessel buddy! LOL, some people just dont get the idea of how the line-loc was "originally" designed to be used.

How a line-loc is traditionally used [at a track]:

1. Get rear tires in the water box, apply brakes. Hold the "momentary switch" (connected to your line-loc), release the brake pedal, hit the gas to warm up tires. [the car will be held by the line loc "locking" the front brakes only]

2. After your burnout, roll to the staging beams. Break the first beam. Stop. Let the other car break the first beam. Then YOU get into the second beam and stop. The other driver then gets into the second beam and stops.

3. Once you're into the second beam, apply the brakes and hold them. Hit and hold the momentary switch. Release brakes. [once again, the LL solenoid will hold the car]

4. With the momentary switch still depressed, start applying the gas pedal to reach desired "stall RPM".

5. Once staged, and just before the christmas tree hits green, release the "momentary switch" [attached to your LL] to release the front brakes and let the car start to move forward. You'll have a couple of milliseconds before you roll out of the beam.

See below...

There are 2 ways to be "staged": Shallow and Deep.

Shallow - if you're in a shallow stage you are barely into the beam. You have more time to roll forward before you roll out of the beam and "red light".

Deep - If you're in a deep stage, it's the opposite of the shallow stage. You're almost out of the beam and might break the beam a lot sooner than a deep stage. You'll need to release the MS closer to the green light to keep from getting a "red light".

This is why ED is talking about having a momentary switch and not an "on/off" switch. The on/off switch has to be physically flipped to release the LL to go forward. A momentary switch just needs to be "let go of" to get the car going. It's WWWAAAYYY easier to launch with a MS in a comfortable spot, such as on the steering wheel [under your thumb] or in his case, the turn signal switch.

Mine is on my AUTO shifter, but facing the rear of the car so my thumb is holding it and not my twitchy pointer finger.

i'm sure no one cares about this post, but I thought I'd enlighten you all in case some one did want to know how "it's done".

-Mike
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by NHRAFORMULA00
And that's why they call it a LINE LOCK
Word!
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #35  
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Now for a Monkey wrench in the mix.....I've even heard some install in in the rear line and use to prevent pressure to the rear brakes. This I don't understand.
I would want it in the front to hold me still in a stick car to make the burn out easier and/or to hold me on the line staged.....easier with 2 feet and 3 pedals
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #36  
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That makes zero sense. But, name a dumb idea, and somewhere you will find a dumb *** doing it.
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 10:59 AM
  #37  
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I don't see an issue using both an on/off and a momentary switch in a street car especially if others may find themselves in the driver seat. I think you sometimes have to think outside the box to understand why someone does something different.
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
I don't see an issue using both an on/off and a momentary switch in a street car especially if others may find themselves in the driver seat. I think you sometimes have to think outside the box to understand why someone does something different.
If you did not have an off-on switch on your line lock, and loaned your car to your mother, and she accidentally hit the line lock button, what do you suppose would happen?
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 12:51 AM
  #39  
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I was juss wondering if it was okay to leave the on and off switch on while going down the track, I don't see how I'd have time to turn it off after I launched? I know the momentary button doesn't apply the brakes, juss holds them until you let off then you could press the button as many times as you want and it wouldn't do anything going down the track unless you happened to hit the brakes and that button at the same time.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 05:51 AM
  #40  
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No reason to ever turn it off. No reason to even have it.
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