Need to talk shocks/springs

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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50

Need to talk shocks/springs

So my question for all you fine gentlemen is as follows. I currently am running these cheapy KYB ABX shocks front and back that I bought some years ago. They've been fine but my car is starting to get to the point where I really need some better control on my launch. Currently the car has suspension wise (most all adjustable) the following:

-welded in subrame connectors
-lower control arms w/ relo brackets
-tunnel mount torque arm
-panhard bar
-8 point chromoly cage
-MWC weld in drag bar
-s60 rearend

Currently I've got the 2step hitting at about 3000rpm and building 12psi off the brake. The tires are MT pro radial's with about 17psi in them. Car is all of 3800lbs with me in it. Best 60' i've cut is a 1.47 and if I push the 2step a little higher I spin terribly. I'd like to leave harder and think my cheap KYB ABX shocks on stock springs are holding me back. What do you guys think?

So i'm not looking to break the bank but at the same time i don't want to get some cheap crap thats not going to help me out. What do you guys recommend?

Here are some pics and a vid.

Jul 28, 2014 | 04:05 PM

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From: Jefferson City, MO

Have you looked into the Viking coilover? Conidering them myself and I believe they can be had for under $900.

Jul 28, 2014 | 04:14 PM

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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix

Have you looked into the Viking coilover? Conidering them myself and I believe they can be had for under $900.

Those are honestly what i've been leaning toward but not sure which spring rate i'd want and if they just bolt in. I street drive the car alot but wouldn't consider a cage or the drag bar a hinderance to it's streetability so i'm not looking for anything less suited i guess. I just want it to still be streetable but competitive too.

Jul 28, 2014 | 04:19 PM

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From: Jefferson City, MO

I would talk to the guys at Midwest about what spring rate to run. Sounds like you'll want the more drag oriented one because it sounds like you can make it streetable.

Jul 28, 2014 | 04:50 PM

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From: Seffner, FL

The KYB shocks/ factory springs are definitely holding you back and keeping you from improving your 60ft times. They allow minimal weight transfer at best so they are going to hold you back.

The best performing setup for the money is the Viking Performance double adjustable shocks which include the front and rear shocks, springs, spanner wrench, and bearings to make the ride height easier to adjust. If you are looking for something a little cheaper you can get away with doing the Strange single adjustable shocks all the way around which will be a couple hundred dollars cheaper and will include the front and rear shocks, Hyperco coil-over springs, and bearings to make the ride height easier to adjust.

Before I would be able to recommend a spring rate for your vehicle I would need to know what weight has been taken off and/or added to the front of the vehicle. I would also need to know what kind of ride height you were looking for. I would definitely be more than happy to help you out if you could get me some more info on the car.

Kyle

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Jul 28, 2014 | 05:08 PM

SCott5

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I had the strange setup on my last car and was real happy with them but the Viking setup wasn't out yet. I will be doing the Viking setup on this car. The front I would do 300 considering you have all the weight with the turbo setup (assuming front mount) and again assuming you only have removed the AC. Definitely grab the double adjustables for the front and would do the SA for the rear. Seems like best bang for buck.

Jul 28, 2014 | 05:34 PM

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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50

Does SA mean single adjustable? Do Viking make different ones for the rear? Also I will be using a bump box and hope that if I bump in I'll stop transfering the weight from the bump on the line when i launch if that makes sense.

Kyle my stock ride height is a-ok for me on my stock springs if that gives you an idea. Just so happens when I got my car weighed when I got the cage put in. Unfortunately this is without me in the car. So this doesn't include driver weight of 200lbs and I also removed the stock front sway bar.

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Jul 29, 2014 | 10:04 AM

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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50

Where'd the BMR guy go

Jul 29, 2014 | 10:27 AM

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From: Seffner, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCott5

The Strange shocks are hard to beat as far as price and quality goes but if you are looking for best value in a double adjustable shock setup it would have to be the Viking Performance shocks just because they offer so much performance at a super reasonable price. I disagree a bit with the 300lb spring because he is happy with factory ride height and would be very hard for him to get that with a 300lb spring due to the extra weight on the front end of the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by willizm

You are correct, generally people abbreviate single adjust with SA and double adjustable with DA. The Viking Performance only come in a double adjustable version where as the Strange can be had in either single adjustable or double adjustable versions. I don't think you will have an issue with the bump box once you get some good shocks on the car.

Since you are happy with the stock ride height and haven't done really much weight reduction on the front of the car I would run somewhere in the 325lb-350lb spring rate and you should be happy with it. Anything lighter and you would probably have a hard time getting back to that factory ride height due to the weight on the front of the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix

Viking Performance has their double adjustable shocks which most people use but they have worked with a couple other companies to provide a true coil-over for the back if that is what you are really looking for. It just really depends on what you are looking for as far as ride height goes. I know I have set up a couple of Viking Performance combinations with our BMR rear lowering springs for guys that wanted a lowered ride height and they were very happy with it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by willizm

Where'd the BMR guy go

I am still here, just tough to be on here a bunch with phones ringing like crazy here at the shop.

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Jul 29, 2014 | 10:34 AM

#11

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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50

^No problem, I know how that is to be jumping call to call. If I plan on going with a iron block down the road would I be best off just getting the 350lb spring. The other thing is that I run a 28" front tire. I have no rubbing issues now but would hate for that to become an issue if I go too lite of a spring.

Jul 29, 2014 | 10:43 AM

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From: Jefferson City, MO

So the Viking coilover set is just the fronts, and the rear Viking setup is just the shocks, correct? So if I'm understanding you right, I would need lowering springs for the rear?

Jul 29, 2014 | 10:44 AM

#13

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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR Sales2

What benefit would someone have from doing a true coil over on the back. I think I saw something from MWC that had an option but can't find the thread. If it's a stance or road course handling characteristic then I don't need it but if it helps with off the line hooking then I may be interested.

Jul 29, 2014 | 10:57 AM

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From: Seffner, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by willizm

Yeah it can definitely get a little crazy here with the phones and orders. If I were you I would run the 350lb springs since you may be planning on running an iron block in the future which will add another 80lbs to the front of the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix

So the Viking coilover set is just the fronts, and the rear Viking setup is just the shocks, correct? So if I'm understanding you right, I would need lowering springs for the rear?

If you get the normal Viking setup it will consist of double adjustable coil-overs in the front and double adjustable shocks in the rear. With this setup you would run the factory spring in the rear if you wanted the factory ride height or a lowering spring of your choice if you wanted to lower the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by willizm

The only real benefit to having the true coil-over in the back is the ride height adjustment, if you aren't worried about adjusting the ride height you would be perfectly fine just using the Viking shocks in the rear. In your case I would just do the shocks since you are happy with the factory ride height because it will be more affordable for you. Even if you decided that you wanted to lower the car down the road you could remove the rear spring isolators or use a lowering spring with the Viking rear shocks.

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Jul 29, 2014 | 11:01 AM

#15

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From: Jefferson City, MO

Thanks BMR. I made my own thread in the suspension section you may want to checkout.

Jul 29, 2014 | 11:35 AM

#16

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So Kyle, if i'm getting this right my best options for my needs are to go with the viking DA front with a 350lb spring option and Viking DA rears keeping the stock springs for the rear. Does that sound right?

Jul 29, 2014 | 12:18 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix

Thanks BMR. I made my own thread in the suspension section you may want to checkout.

No problem, I just responded over in your thread. For what you are wanting to do with the car and trying to get it to hook optimally on the street and track I would go with the Viking Performance shocks over the Bilstein/BMR setup. The Bilstein/BMR setup is awesome for the street and handling but is definitely more of a compromise as far as hooking on the street and at the track goes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by willizm

Yep, this is what I would do. Like I said this setup will compensate for the extra weight on the front of the vehicle and allow you to stick right around the factory ride height without any issues. Plus sticking with the Viking rear DA shocks will save you some money over the true coil-overs.

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Jul 29, 2014 | 04:17 PM

#18

ssvert99

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix

So the Viking coilover set is just the fronts, and the rear Viking setup is just the shocks, correct? So if I'm understanding you right, I would need lowering springs for the rear?

If you want to lower the rear of the car you have 2 options... standard shock with lowering spring, or coil-over conversion. The fronts will be coil-over automatically as this is the oem setup, and most of the aftermarket shock companies are ride height adjustable. We have been doing the rear coil-over conversion here for quite some time and the cost is only about 200.00 more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by willizm

The biggest benefits of coil-over rear are 1) adjustable ride height 2) slightly lighter spring, 3) great selection of spring rates to suit your needs for what you do with the car.

There are no magic numbers with performance in coil-over vs standard location spring, but I can tell you the quickest and fastest f-body cars on stock style suspension are all on coil-over rear shocks(we set them up).

We can help recommend the correct spring sizes and rates for what your needs are without issues... we have a lot of experience with this setup and have helped 100s of customer with springs.

Give us a call... MWC sells more racing style shocks for f-body street cars and racers tan anyone and we have the expert tech help and experience to back it all up. Not to mention the guaranteed lowest prices!

Last edited by ssvert99; Jul 29, 2014 at 04:24 PM.

Jul 29, 2014 | 04:39 PM

#19

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From: Jefferson City, MO

So if you opt for the true coilover rear setup, can you run the stock rear springs, or would a different rear spring be needed?

Jul 29, 2014 | 04:56 PM

#20

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix

So if you opt for the true coilover rear setup, can you run the stock rear springs, or would a different rear spring be needed?

There would be no need to run the factory rear springs if you go with the true coil-over setup on the rear because you will use the springs provided with the coil-overs from Viking.

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