2 Step update, for those interested
Looks like we have a winner <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
solid RPM control, very quick recovery to full power.
And the best result of the new "fixes", no random miss or hard starts. Noisy signals were driving me nuts before.
It's cold and dark now, so video tomorrow.
OEM connectors, and 1 wire for the arm button. That's it for connections. Plug and play.
<img src="graemlins/formula.gif" border="0" alt="[Pontiac]" />
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put some decent miles on it again tonight. Looks like leaving it in all the time is no worry. And i think i'll have the cold weather testing taken care of <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> A balmy 20° tonight <img src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" border="0" alt="[guns]" />
still no pics/video i'm afraid, but some details...
has two harnesses, one for each coil pack. OEM connectors to jump inbetween the engine harness and the coil packs. 1 other wire for the arm switch. Simple connection to ground and it's active. RPM setting is done with a couple *****. set thousands and hundreds on the stutter point. again, 100 rpm steps. Right now i got it setup for 2000 to 6700. Will up that to 8000 when it's finallized. May lower the bottom limit to 1500. much lower than that and it will stall the engine at idle if you set it that low <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Should work on a C5 too, as the connectors and harness is the same.
Proto is in the same size box as the MAFT, and it will prolly stay that way.
i'm guessing in the $100 range for the deal, shouldn't need anything else but a switch for arming. I'll provide info for the M6 guys on tying it into the clutch, as that's how i'm gonna run it.
still tracking down the suppliers/sources on the rest of the parts, and need to quote the board production.
So, unless something drastically changes the price guess it pretty close i think. Then again, i'm not sure how long it's gonna take to put the harnesses together <img src="graemlins/gr_punch.gif" border="0" alt="[fight]" />
Opinions or comments??
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don't want this thing to turn into the next EWP <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
should be soon for production. Considering we now have stock on hand for shiftlights.
Maybe see me on the sponsor banners soon too <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">
[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: y2khawk ]</p>
<strong>Any thoughts on how this might work with Nitrous (i'm refering to the WOT switch)?????</strong><hr></blockquote>
EXACTLY what I was thinking. If you can somehow wire this to turn on the WOT when you come off the first step (in my case when I come off the transbrake), that would be perfect..... <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
- Matt


video about 4.5M:
http://harlan.sketchy.net/store/2step/proto2.mpg
Tony
Basically it's an alternate rev limiter. I think this first version has one rev limiter - so you would set your box from harlan to say 5500 or 6500 or wherever you wanted to launch at. At the starting line floor it at that rev limit. After you luanch it would be disengaged through some means (up to you) and you would work off the pcm rev limiter. This will give you solid and *consistant* luanches.
If he adds another rev limiter to it you can have one rev limiter for burnout, one for a launches, and use the pcm for down the track.
On a turbo car it allows you to build boost in a m6 while not moving/at the line. For a real track oriented m6 turbo car this is a requirement!
Congrats harlan, this is an awesome product!
Chris
It will work just fine for a blower <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Tony
It shouldn't hurt anything. It will rotate through the disabled cylinders so they don't load up w/ fuel.
I play to set up mine to work of the clutch pedal switch. I need to get a latch type setup though.
The idea is, you set the box for the launch RPM.
Clutch in at the line, hit the button to arm it. As long as the clutch is in, it will hold the lower limiter. So you hold the clutch and gas to the floor.
Drop the clutch on the last yellow <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
You're already at WOT, so as soon as the clutch is out it's back to full power.
I have an automatic, so I'm assuming to use this to its worth I should have a transbrake(instead of having to time it to where I let off of the footbrake and 2 step trigger at the same time).
So if I have this trigger tied into my transbrake button, how is the lower of the two rpm settings going to work for a burnout if my drivetrain is locked?
Also, how do you differentiate which rpm setting you are using as your limiter(burnout or launch)if there is only one trigger?
thanks,
Steve





