marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

I know lots of guys who run Nitto 555R drag radials full time and I used to on my 97 ws6.

If it were me and doing it on the cheap like you seem to want to, I would just get some 15x10 Racestar wheels for the track for out back and throw on some Hoosier drag radials or Mickeys of your choice.

I ran 275/40/17 Nitto 555Rs on my 17" ws6 wheels and had some 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson ET street radials on some 17" zr1 wheels for the strip back then.

I think your first set of business is those gears and a torque converter either way if just looking to beat your brother. Your exhaust can wait.

Reaper_SS

Im hoping for a TC this winter if I can save up some pennies. Would the 3.46 gears make that much of a difference? My SS has 3.23 stock (pretty sure).

Im going to try for the wheels and tires this summer sometime

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

They would definitely help a bit at the drag strip. I had 3.73 in my old 97 Ws6 with the 4l60 and hated it on highway cruises (most driving I do). I feel like 3.42 would have been a better in between gear and many who have done 3.42 on the 4l60 like it as an in between gear for cruising and racing.

I liked my Yank SS3600 converter, but there are many other similar stall speed converters that should work great for you and won't compromise your street driving.

PM me and let me know when you are ready for the wheels. I would highly recommend ordering from a local shop out here in Iowa. Fast shipping and good prices

Jake89

If you have an SS I am pretty sure the gears are 3.23. If that is the case switching to 3.42 shouldn't make a difference. You might want to go with 3.73 gears. Honestly, from what I have read, the TC will be the best bet.

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

You're correct. I just offered it up because I know how cheap some of the local stock m6 3.42 10 bolt gears have went for. Dirt cheap for maybe a bit of gain.

Correct, stall converter is the big ticket for him. And some tires worth a damn to make good use of the car.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I've personally ran the Nitto 555R & the Toyo Proxes TQ. I got almost 20k miles out of both and the Toyo hooked better and was also cheaper at the time. If you need a DR that will hook decently while not giving up a ton of wear if go this route.

I agree with the converter and other general consensus

My car with a SS3600 cam only + bolt ons and LS6 intake loved the 3.73s. Felt decently loose when I had to go back to a 3.23 rear

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

I've heard good review of the Toyo tires as well.

My comment about the 3.42 vs 3.73 is really just his personal preference and thinking he could pick up a stock m6 3.42 gear set locally for dirt cheap. I disliked the 3.73s on the highway and did lots of highway driving. I'm sure some wouldn't notice much of a difference.

Jake89

Care to elaborate on "felt loose". I am running something similar. Haven't really thought about gears really. Just curious.

Reaper_SS

Ok so as of now I think this is what Im looking at:
Wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
Maybe just get a reroute that tucks more and a better sounding muffler like a flowmaster the comes out to duals. electric cutouts after Y to flow maybe?
TC/stall
either YankSS3600 or Circle D TC, probably this winter
Drag radials/slicks
15x10 dragstars with nitto or MT drag radials. might look into bias slicks for this as well since only going to see the strip with these. we will see on that
mild cam
228, still not 100% on what I need here but this will probably be last on the list of things to do so Ill have time to research more on it
Tune
of course

others on the list now:
Possible 3.42 gears
Milled heads
H pipes

Jake89

YankSS3600 is the way to go. I love mine. Not the most fun to drive around town, but no converter is, but when you mash it you won't look back. As for the cam why not look into the Streetsweeper HT. The reviews all are good, and you will get really good power just cam only. Granted, I will say that the TR228 is definitely proven as well.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

I would put gears last on the to do list. They really Don't help that much

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I wouldn't bother with 3.42s if I had 3.23s personally. I agree 3.73s did kind of suck on the highway for MPGs going faster than 65mph for sure

The SS3600 with 3.73s felt very close to stock converter wise. With 3.23s it kind of felt like riding in mud. The car would sound loud under load but wouldn't move as quickly at part throttle. It's kind of hard to explain but that's the best I can explain it.

The HT is a good grind, or the SNS2 or the BTR II as well. Plenty have gone bottom 11's upper 10s with a properly setup car.

I agree, I'd do them if you want a tighter feeling converter or looking for that last .10 or .20. In a stock converter they definitely help more than an aftermarket converter car in my experience.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Really? I found a completely different result: https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second...-bolt-ons.html

In fact, I have noticed that far too often people try "add up" power by bolting on part after part, rather than optimizing and tuning what they have; especially the driver mod.

I am going to miss that car (parting it out) because it hurt a lot of feelings.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Is that stock stall vs aftermarket? Only reason I ask is I have seen people add gears to their aftermarket stalled cars and gain .10-.20 in similar weather

birdblack

First things first. You can do all of the modifications you want but if you can't put the power to the ground you've wasted your money. Tighten up the car first. Weld in subframe connectors, lower control arms, and a strut tower brace. My choice is BMR. Then start with the mods that will give you more HP. After saying all of this I have to admit that is one ugly exhaust.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

It was 110% stock stall... I am using it as a door stop now.

dannyz

No. The change from 3.23-3.42 gears is a complete waste of time/money. A good stall, [and a 3600 yank is completely streetable btw] is the best way to start. And I don't want to start a war here, but if your looking for a track-only tire then don't get a radial. I know many think thats the "only" way to go for an A4 car, but I would just get an ET Drag and call it good. Radials are awsome for some cars, but others need a lot of suspension work to make them hook where a bias ply wrinkle wall will work with much less effort. So a stall, [ w/a tranny cooler] slicks along with your lt's and a tune should have your car solidly in the mid 12's.

dannyz

He does not need subframe or connectors lower control arms and he especially does not need a strut tower brace.
You were kidding, right?
To the op, if your bushings in the rear lca's are worn go ahead and replace them, but the stock arms are fine for now.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I agree

If it were my car, I'd fix that other pipe for "looks" and put a cutout on it. Then I'd get a stall, drag radials (a must with a stall), and tune. Don't bother changing gears because as long as you get at least a 3600 stall, you will gain literally nothing from a gear change.

After that I'd do the cam, springs, retainers, pushrods, timing chain. With your cutout and those mods, you will easily be a really low 12 sec car in that DA. It's really not that difficult to beat a stock 5.0 tbh. Once they start modding them it takes us a little more, but definitely still very achievable.

big hammer

Stock coyote is easy to beat.

Stall
CAI
1-7/8 headers
Phab true duals
Drag radials
Tune and spin it to at least 6250

You will smoke him at the track bad