Keeping up with a Coyote
Yeah it was his starting point time. And elevation with nothing more than drag radials on a stock car. I was slightly impressed.
But back to me. If I was just going to use them on the track, (not sure if I want to street race at all yet) should I get drag radials or just slicks? And a good price if known
But back to me. If I was just going to use them on the track, (not sure if I want to street race at all yet) should I get drag radials or just slicks? And a good price if known
If it were me and doing it on the cheap like you seem to want to, I would just get some 15x10 Racestar wheels for the track for out back and throw on some Hoosier drag radials or Mickeys of your choice.
I ran 275/40/17 Nitto 555Rs on my 17" ws6 wheels and had some 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson ET street radials on some 17" zr1 wheels for the strip back then.
I think your first set of business is those gears and a torque converter either way if just looking to beat your brother. Your exhaust can wait.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
Im hoping for a TC this winter if I can save up some pennies. Would the 3.46 gears make that much of a difference? My SS has 3.23 stock (pretty sure).
Im going to try for the wheels and tires this summer sometime
Im going to try for the wheels and tires this summer sometime
I liked my Yank SS3600 converter, but there are many other similar stall speed converters that should work great for you and won't compromise your street driving.
PM me and let me know when you are ready for the wheels. I would highly recommend ordering from a local shop out here in Iowa. Fast shipping and good prices
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, AL
If you have an SS I am pretty sure the gears are 3.23. If that is the case switching to 3.42 shouldn't make a difference. You might want to go with 3.73 gears. Honestly, from what I have read, the TC will be the best bet.
Correct, stall converter is the big ticket for him. And some tires worth a damn to make good use of the car.
I know lots of guys who run Nitto 555R drag radials full time and I used to on my 97 ws6.
If it were me and doing it on the cheap like you seem to want to, I would just get some 15x10 Racestar wheels for the track for out back and throw on some Hoosier drag radials or Mickeys of your choice.
I ran 275/40/17 Nitto 555Rs on my 17" ws6 wheels and had some 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson ET street radials on some 17" zr1 wheels for the strip back then.
I think your first set of business is those gears and a torque converter either way if just looking to beat your brother. Your exhaust can wait.
If it were me and doing it on the cheap like you seem to want to, I would just get some 15x10 Racestar wheels for the track for out back and throw on some Hoosier drag radials or Mickeys of your choice.
I ran 275/40/17 Nitto 555Rs on my 17" ws6 wheels and had some 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson ET street radials on some 17" zr1 wheels for the strip back then.
I think your first set of business is those gears and a torque converter either way if just looking to beat your brother. Your exhaust can wait.
I agree with the converter and other general consensus
My car with a SS3600 cam only + bolt ons and LS6 intake loved the 3.73s. Felt decently loose when I had to go back to a 3.23 rear
I've personally ran the Nitto 555R & the Toyo Proxes TQ. I got almost 20k miles out of both and the Toyo hooked better and was also cheaper at the time. If you need a DR that will hook decently while not giving up a ton of wear if go this route.
I agree with the converter and other general consensus
My car with a SS3600 cam only + bolt ons and LS6 intake loved the 3.73s. Felt decently loose when I had to go back to a 3.23 rear
I agree with the converter and other general consensus
My car with a SS3600 cam only + bolt ons and LS6 intake loved the 3.73s. Felt decently loose when I had to go back to a 3.23 rear
My comment about the 3.42 vs 3.73 is really just his personal preference and thinking he could pick up a stock m6 3.42 gear set locally for dirt cheap. I disliked the 3.73s on the highway and did lots of highway driving. I'm sure some wouldn't notice much of a difference.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, AL
I've personally ran the Nitto 555R & the Toyo Proxes TQ. I got almost 20k miles out of both and the Toyo hooked better and was also cheaper at the time. If you need a DR that will hook decently while not giving up a ton of wear if go this route.
I agree with the converter and other general consensus
My car with a SS3600 cam only + bolt ons and LS6 intake loved the 3.73s. Felt decently loose when I had to go back to a 3.23 rear
I agree with the converter and other general consensus
My car with a SS3600 cam only + bolt ons and LS6 intake loved the 3.73s. Felt decently loose when I had to go back to a 3.23 rear
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
Ok so as of now I think this is what Im looking at:
Wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
Maybe just get a reroute that tucks more and a better sounding muffler like a flowmaster the comes out to duals. electric cutouts after Y to flow maybe?
TC/stall
either YankSS3600 or Circle D TC, probably this winter
Drag radials/slicks
15x10 dragstars with nitto or MT drag radials. might look into bias slicks for this as well since only going to see the strip with these. we will see on that
mild cam
228, still not 100% on what I need here but this will probably be last on the list of things to do so Ill have time to research more on it
Tune
of course
others on the list now:
Possible 3.42 gears
Milled heads
H pipes
Wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
Maybe just get a reroute that tucks more and a better sounding muffler like a flowmaster the comes out to duals. electric cutouts after Y to flow maybe?
TC/stall
either YankSS3600 or Circle D TC, probably this winter
Drag radials/slicks
15x10 dragstars with nitto or MT drag radials. might look into bias slicks for this as well since only going to see the strip with these. we will see on that
mild cam
228, still not 100% on what I need here but this will probably be last on the list of things to do so Ill have time to research more on it
Tune
of course
others on the list now:
Possible 3.42 gears
Milled heads
H pipes
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, AL
Ok so as of now I think this is what Im looking at:
Wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
Maybe just get a reroute that tucks more and a better sounding muffler like a flowmaster the comes out to duals. electric cutouts after Y to flow maybe?
TC/stall
either YankSS3600 or Circle D TC, probably this winter
Drag radials/slicks
15x10 dragstars with nitto or MT drag radials. might look into bias slicks for this as well since only going to see the strip with these. we will see on that
mild cam
228, still not 100% on what I need here but this will probably be last on the list of things to do so Ill have time to research more on it
Tune
of course
others on the list now:
Possible 3.42 gears
Milled heads
H pipes
Wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
Maybe just get a reroute that tucks more and a better sounding muffler like a flowmaster the comes out to duals. electric cutouts after Y to flow maybe?
TC/stall
either YankSS3600 or Circle D TC, probably this winter
Drag radials/slicks
15x10 dragstars with nitto or MT drag radials. might look into bias slicks for this as well since only going to see the strip with these. we will see on that
mild cam
228, still not 100% on what I need here but this will probably be last on the list of things to do so Ill have time to research more on it
Tune
of course
others on the list now:
Possible 3.42 gears
Milled heads
H pipes
I've heard good review of the Toyo tires as well.
My comment about the 3.42 vs 3.73 is really just his personal preference and thinking he could pick up a stock m6 3.42 gear set locally for dirt cheap. I disliked the 3.73s on the highway and did lots of highway driving. I'm sure some wouldn't notice much of a difference.
My comment about the 3.42 vs 3.73 is really just his personal preference and thinking he could pick up a stock m6 3.42 gear set locally for dirt cheap. I disliked the 3.73s on the highway and did lots of highway driving. I'm sure some wouldn't notice much of a difference.
YankSS3600 is the way to go. I love mine. Not the most fun to drive around town, but no converter is, but when you mash it you won't look back. As for the cam why not look into the Streetsweeper HT. The reviews all are good, and you will get really good power just cam only. Granted, I will say that the TR228 is definitely proven as well.
I agree, I'd do them if you want a tighter feeling converter or looking for that last .10 or .20. In a stock converter they definitely help more than an aftermarket converter car in my experience.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 60
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
In fact, I have noticed that far too often people try "add up" power by bolting on part after part, rather than optimizing and tuning what they have; especially the driver mod.
I am going to miss that car (parting it out) because it hurt a lot of feelings.
Really? I found a completely different result: https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second...-bolt-ons.html
In fact, I have noticed that far too often people try "add up" power by bolting on part after part, rather than optimizing and tuning what they have; especially the driver mod.
I am going to miss that car (parting it out) because it hurt a lot of feelings.
In fact, I have noticed that far too often people try "add up" power by bolting on part after part, rather than optimizing and tuning what they have; especially the driver mod.
I am going to miss that car (parting it out) because it hurt a lot of feelings.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: chicagoland
First things first. You can do all of the modifications you want but if you can't put the power to the ground you've wasted your money. Tighten up the car first. Weld in subframe connectors, lower control arms, and a strut tower brace. My choice is BMR. Then start with the mods that will give you more HP. After saying all of this I have to admit that is one ugly exhaust.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 60
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 76
From: olympia, wash
No. The change from 3.23-3.42 gears is a complete waste of time/money. A good stall, [and a 3600 yank is completely streetable btw] is the best way to start. And I don't want to start a war here, but if your looking for a track-only tire then don't get a radial. I know many think thats the "only" way to go for an A4 car, but I would just get an ET Drag and call it good. Radials are awsome for some cars, but others need a lot of suspension work to make them hook where a bias ply wrinkle wall will work with much less effort. So a stall, [ w/a tranny cooler] slicks along with your lt's and a tune should have your car solidly in the mid 12's.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 76
From: olympia, wash
First things first. You can do all of the modifications you want but if you can't put the power to the ground you've wasted your money. Tighten up the car first. Weld in subframe connectors, lower control arms, and a strut tower brace. My choice is BMR. Then start with the mods that will give you more HP. After saying all of this I have to admit that is one ugly exhaust.
You were kidding, right?
To the op, if your bushings in the rear lca's are worn go ahead and replace them, but the stock arms are fine for now.
If it were my car, I'd fix that other pipe for "looks" and put a cutout on it. Then I'd get a stall, drag radials (a must with a stall), and tune. Don't bother changing gears because as long as you get at least a 3600 stall, you will gain literally nothing from a gear change.
After that I'd do the cam, springs, retainers, pushrods, timing chain. With your cutout and those mods, you will easily be a really low 12 sec car in that DA. It's really not that difficult to beat a stock 5.0 tbh. Once they start modding them it takes us a little more, but definitely still very achievable.
