Keeping up with a Coyote
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 513
Likes: 1
From: Moose Jaw SK, Canada
I feel as though a lot of people haven't "been there" but insist on adding their .02
First things first: grab a nice stall, the bigger the better of course, paired with a nice big trans cooler. This is without a doubt the best mod you can do.
Second, get your exhaust in check- Full length true 1 3/4 headers OR 1 7/8 will be more than what's needed. dual 3" is nice and was my first setup dumped under the axle, kind of wished I would've went with the 4" Hawks style single but either one flows more than you'll ever need.
I don't know how much money you have to play with but at this point I would spend the couple hundred bucks and pick up a cam and valve springs. Get a nice tune and it'll be an animal.
The gears DO help but the above takes priority.
And on the tire situation I personally would just grab a nice drag radial that fits on your stock wheels. I really loved my M/T ET street IIs when I ran 18s
And remove that front swaybar junk. You'll be very pleased with the above.
Best of luck. The coyote is extremely strong. with a full exhaust and a tune a friends went 11.60s at ~2600ft
First things first: grab a nice stall, the bigger the better of course, paired with a nice big trans cooler. This is without a doubt the best mod you can do.
Second, get your exhaust in check- Full length true 1 3/4 headers OR 1 7/8 will be more than what's needed. dual 3" is nice and was my first setup dumped under the axle, kind of wished I would've went with the 4" Hawks style single but either one flows more than you'll ever need.
I don't know how much money you have to play with but at this point I would spend the couple hundred bucks and pick up a cam and valve springs. Get a nice tune and it'll be an animal.
The gears DO help but the above takes priority.
And on the tire situation I personally would just grab a nice drag radial that fits on your stock wheels. I really loved my M/T ET street IIs when I ran 18s
And remove that front swaybar junk. You'll be very pleased with the above.
Best of luck. The coyote is extremely strong. with a full exhaust and a tune a friends went 11.60s at ~2600ft
Last edited by SteenH; Mar 25, 2016 at 01:52 PM.
I'm still going to side with the rest of this site that says gears aren't worth the swap after a decent sized stall is installed. 1/8th mile track, possibly, but roll racing and 1/4 isn't worth it unless you are literally trying to squeeze every last tenth out. And a gear change from 3.23 or 3.42 to a 3.73 with a stall 3600 or larger, will likely not even gain .1 tenth in the full 1/4.
If you have the time and money to waste and you absolutely want to get one more tenth out of your car, then by all means, go ahead and swap them. Your butt dyno will enjoy the swap, but et times will be disappointing and will likely drop mph on your trap due to a little better 60'.
If you have the time and money to waste and you absolutely want to get one more tenth out of your car, then by all means, go ahead and swap them. Your butt dyno will enjoy the swap, but et times will be disappointing and will likely drop mph on your trap due to a little better 60'.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 13
From: New Orleans, LA
NewOrleansLT1 is your car stalled now or are you still running the stock converter? Your car's an a4 isn't it? If it's the stock converter and you don't plan on changing it, then it would be worth the gear swap for sure.
gears will not add much after stalled , will add more on stock stall but no where near what a good stall will - provided you can hook it up , typical gains from a stall can be anywhere from .6 to a full second , nothing similarly priced will give a better gain other than spray.
If you have a quality 3600-4000 stall and good drag radials and your not solidly in the 12's in an otherwise bone stock car in any racing weather your doing something wrong lol he just ran 13 flat right , stall and tires immediately and beat him before he opens his wallet on mods lol.
If you don't know how to shallow stage learn it and leave on the 2nd yellow if you move first in an a4 car with him is an M6 chances are unless he really has his **** down he will overdrive it to try to catch you , miss a shift etc..
If you have a quality 3600-4000 stall and good drag radials and your not solidly in the 12's in an otherwise bone stock car in any racing weather your doing something wrong lol he just ran 13 flat right , stall and tires immediately and beat him before he opens his wallet on mods lol.
If you don't know how to shallow stage learn it and leave on the 2nd yellow if you move first in an a4 car with him is an M6 chances are unless he really has his **** down he will overdrive it to try to catch you , miss a shift etc..
gears will not add much after stalled , will add more on stock stall but no where near what a good stall will - provided you can hook it up , typical gains from a stall can be anywhere from .6 to a full second , nothing similarly priced will give a better gain other than spray.
If you have a quality 3600-4000 stall and good drag radials and your not solidly in the 12's in an otherwise bone stock car in any racing weather your doing something wrong lol he just ran 13 flat right , stall and tires immediately and beat him before he opens his wallet on mods lol.
If you have a quality 3600-4000 stall and good drag radials and your not solidly in the 12's in an otherwise bone stock car in any racing weather your doing something wrong lol he just ran 13 flat right , stall and tires immediately and beat him before he opens his wallet on mods lol.
BTW, your post count is at 1320 lol
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Verdad Gallardo 11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 13
From: New Orleans, LA
As long as you do a dig race and run for 1320 feet it is lol. Not really sure how that comes into play on roll races. I would guess that the car that traps more is going to pull more, the higher the speed you run to.
NewOrleansLT1 is your car stalled now or are you still running the stock converter? Your car's an a4 isn't it? If it's the stock converter and you don't plan on changing it, then it would be worth the gear swap for sure.
NewOrleansLT1 is your car stalled now or are you still running the stock converter? Your car's an a4 isn't it? If it's the stock converter and you don't plan on changing it, then it would be worth the gear swap for sure.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
As far as TC goes, I know yank is the go to but what are the thoughts on PTC? Was reading an old thread and someone was pretty adamant about PTC being as good for the needs for a better price. And was custom. Just wondering if that's a solid option in the minds on here
I think all of them make pretty good converters. Yank and Vig are pretty nice converters, but I've read good things about Circle D, FTI, and PTC. I imagine that any of them will make you a good converter if you call them and let them know your build and how you'd like it to act.
Some will hit harder off the line than others depending on the stalls str. I don't think you will be unhappy with whatever converter you decide to go with. The higher end converters "claim" to be more efficient than some of the cheaper ones and they give their percentage on their sites.
Some will hit harder off the line than others depending on the stalls str. I don't think you will be unhappy with whatever converter you decide to go with. The higher end converters "claim" to be more efficient than some of the cheaper ones and they give their percentage on their sites.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
Update for anyone that's interested. We went to the track today for the first time this year. My brother did some suspension work upper control arms, adjustable rear I think and some bias ply bigs and skinnies. I haven't done anything yet.
(Keep in mind this is DA at around 4200 today)
His best time was 12.8.
Mine was 13.5 all 5 times.
My best numbers picked best from 5 runs:
60'- 2.075
1/4- 13.503
MPH- 104.01
My times are exactly what I expected. I was probably spinning a tad at the start but no wheel hop. One thing that I was concerned about was at shift points it was hitting the Rev limiting it felt like. It does this pretty bad at times when I punch it on the highway and it down shifts. The only time it didn't do it was the run I trapped at 104. Others were slightly lower at 103s but were also later in the morning when it was getting hotter. Not sure if this is a tune issue or if it would be taken care of with a stall TC.
But all and all it was a good time. Got a base to start from.
(Keep in mind this is DA at around 4200 today)
His best time was 12.8.
Mine was 13.5 all 5 times.
My best numbers picked best from 5 runs:
60'- 2.075
1/4- 13.503
MPH- 104.01
My times are exactly what I expected. I was probably spinning a tad at the start but no wheel hop. One thing that I was concerned about was at shift points it was hitting the Rev limiting it felt like. It does this pretty bad at times when I punch it on the highway and it down shifts. The only time it didn't do it was the run I trapped at 104. Others were slightly lower at 103s but were also later in the morning when it was getting hotter. Not sure if this is a tune issue or if it would be taken care of with a stall TC.
But all and all it was a good time. Got a base to start from.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
Update:
Got the stall put it, yank3600ss. Feels awesome and is very streetable. Went to a 1/8 mile track after the stall was put on and had pretty much the same 60 ft as before but without tires I though that was going to be the case.
Have some Hoosiers DR2s 275/50R-15 mounted on some Racestar 15x10 and 17x4.5 on front. So Im itching to see how they work. Any advice on getting the best performance out of them? And how to stage. Just load up the stall and mash it gas or is it going to still take some finesse?
Thanks
Got the stall put it, yank3600ss. Feels awesome and is very streetable. Went to a 1/8 mile track after the stall was put on and had pretty much the same 60 ft as before but without tires I though that was going to be the case.
Have some Hoosiers DR2s 275/50R-15 mounted on some Racestar 15x10 and 17x4.5 on front. So Im itching to see how they work. Any advice on getting the best performance out of them? And how to stage. Just load up the stall and mash it gas or is it going to still take some finesse?
Thanks
there are different opinions and of course every car/combo reacts differently good vs. worn suspension etc... but my own best results on a 3600 stall came by leaving at idle to get the most "flash" out of the stall as well as the most drastic transfer of weight off the front and onto the rear.
Sway bar was removed in the front and had to add jack and toolbox to trunkwell due to poor prep on a street night but netted a 12.1 @112 on a 1.7 60 foot with far from full bolt ons. only f body track passes I ever made , I was on mt et street radials aired all the way down to 13psi , car had a bad fuel pump and was breaking up over 5500 or I feel it was going to go 11.9's
as for how to stage try not to let it heat soak in the staging lanes , hood up shut off whenever possible/safe/allowed . Scout the starting line while waiting for lanes to move to see which lane is hooking most consistently and try to get in that lane. Do a decent burnout till you can see smoke , look to the end of the track as your pulling up to the tree so you are pointed straight to the traps in your lane for less steering corrections ( make sure you are also positioning your tires in the "groove" where you can see the tracks of previous cars leaving rubber down. shallow stage pull up until you get the pre stage then creep forward until you barely get the stage light on just pre load a whisker to make sure the light isn't going to flicker on you then leave on the 3rd yellow , stay in the throttle just beyond the traps to ensure you were in in through the traps.
Report back !
Sway bar was removed in the front and had to add jack and toolbox to trunkwell due to poor prep on a street night but netted a 12.1 @112 on a 1.7 60 foot with far from full bolt ons. only f body track passes I ever made , I was on mt et street radials aired all the way down to 13psi , car had a bad fuel pump and was breaking up over 5500 or I feel it was going to go 11.9's
as for how to stage try not to let it heat soak in the staging lanes , hood up shut off whenever possible/safe/allowed . Scout the starting line while waiting for lanes to move to see which lane is hooking most consistently and try to get in that lane. Do a decent burnout till you can see smoke , look to the end of the track as your pulling up to the tree so you are pointed straight to the traps in your lane for less steering corrections ( make sure you are also positioning your tires in the "groove" where you can see the tracks of previous cars leaving rubber down. shallow stage pull up until you get the pre stage then creep forward until you barely get the stage light on just pre load a whisker to make sure the light isn't going to flicker on you then leave on the 3rd yellow , stay in the throttle just beyond the traps to ensure you were in in through the traps.
Report back !
Last edited by murphinator; Mar 17, 2017 at 10:10 AM.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
Try it both ways. I have absolutely had track days where flashing the converter was working better and I have had track days where stalling it up worked better.
I usually pull low 1.7x 60' with my yank ss3600
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
So I went out and took a few test hits with my hoosier DR2s. This is what the tires were putting down. Like eraser dust. Is this normal? First layer coming off? Never had drag radials so not sure what to expect.